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Thinking Back on Our Lucky Irish Sojourn

IMG_7781We currently live near the Portland airport and the Portland Air National Guard is based there. There are many moments throughout the day when you can hear the rumble of planes flying overhead. A deep rumble, almost as if the sky has hunger pains or feeling that there is thunder on the horizon and it’s audible for all. 

This is my current back drop as I move to write more about our trip around the world. I have been writing in chronological order as my anxieties and obsessive nature bids me to. I have so much more to write and I will. However, I should note here that while being back for five months has illuminated a deep nostalgia for this trip and sadness that we are currently rooted.fullsizeoutput_dbfb

I am mourning for the road and the adventures we had there. It’s a bit odd because, it wasn’t that we did toursity  things every day but, I suppose, because I feel most comfortable with these memories and find myself drifting back, walking down many of the cobblestone roads or squinting across the dusty verandas we saw. Now they weave in my memories every single day. 

I find I feel more comfortable ‘over there’ in many ways. This is not because of all the politics happening now (although that can certainly effect it) and I was happily born here in the US and I was raised in a small, rural town in Southern Idaho.  From an early age I looked at our atlas and traced my fingers over countries that I wondered about. fullsizeoutput_da7e

Two days after my high school graduation I shot out of that small town and only made visits ‘back home’ after that. Currently, I am a person with no living parents and have siblings scattered in differing cities.

So, I don’t have large, encompassing family reunions or holidays where we have to strategize who we need to see and where to go. My in-laws connect with us (as you’ll continue to see in this post) when we have travelled and I think that would be the same if we left again. I happily see my siblings and their families but, it’s not in a giant coordinated effect. We all find our way in our own family travel plans. fullsizeoutput_daa3

I built a lot of my life out of my experiences I had while being overseas starting at age 19. I have had my heartaches and delights. I see cups of coffee on brisk autumn days in small student flats furnished with mismatched furniture, piles of books, incense burning and still feel the desire to learn more or be well-read. 

fullsizeoutput_dba2From ages 19-25 I spent three years overseas. They say your prefrontal cortex, your critical thinking part of your brain, doesn’t fully form until you are 25 so, I suppose I did a lot of my first adult thinking navigating different experiences outside the US. Maybe that is why I still seek it. It is hardwired in my brain. 

fullsizeoutput_db0dIn any case, I am reliving my adventures here as they soothe my soul and inspire me to plan more and now, with the added intention of exposing my kids to their future adventures. 

One son has ‘bought in’ to my lifestyle and dreams of travel. He’ll clutch my arm when a screen saver moment flickers by on my screen saver that he too remembers. He’s sketching out plans for future trips for he and his friends with itineraries that make me envious. I am invited to join for now but, know that he will need to make his own journeys someday without mom in tow. And likely when he can pay for them on his own!IMG_7715

The other son endured our travels. An introvert who seeks time on his own, drawing, luxuriating in his imagination and being completely fulfilled by an afternoon of sliced apples and colored pencils.

He found the animals and tall buildings provocative but, dislikes anyone paying too close attention to him. Especially hard when you are a caucasian boy the blue eyes and a soft American accent in a place where there are not a lot of these kind of kids. 

fullsizeoutput_db4dAnd so, I write to make sure I do my due diligence in documenting our adventure but, also for me to continue to feel connected to its story which is many people’s story. In our iteration or someone else’s. This is our story. Thank you for reading. It helps me keep it alive. 

The end of middle of May we left Norway to go to Ireland. We wouldn’t have likely chosen to fly to the United Kingdom the day before a royal wedding but, our Schengen Travel Visas were about to expire. This rule means that we, as American citizens (and many other none European passport holders), have 90 days within a 180 day period to spend in the 26 countries comprising the Schengen Area. fullsizeoutput_db17

It is not restricted to or inclusive of the EU countries either (22 of the 28 countries participate). 

After all, we were coming from Norway which has strongly been outside of the EU but, joined this gathering of countries in order to find more ways to track travelers and, by default, migrants. Also, it creates more seamless borders in a geographic area that one could easily drive through seven countries on a weekend road trip. 

IMG_7833We had reached day 90 (with a lot of planning and foresight mind you) by landing in Ireland. Ireland, along with the all of the UK does not take part in the Schengen Area. That meant for us, that our travel clock started over by the tracking of Irish and later, British authorities. They generally allow a six month visa.

IMG_7687This doesn’t mean they don’t also ask a lot of questions at the Irish border. We flew in from Oslo with Kelvin’s parents. We shuffled and waited in a library-quiet big hall as they inspected our passports while we gazed at the new signs naming everything in English and ‘the Irish’ which we outsiders might know more as Gaelic.

It makes sense, that they speak Irish rather than English for country with hundreds of years of conflict with its Eastern neighbor and erstwhile rulers.

fullsizeoutput_dad6We rented an Airbnb in Clontarf, a friendly suburb north of Dublin City Center from where we could easily catch the bus into the city. Our time in Dublin was timed with the Royal Wedding of Harry and Meghan.

IMG_7834I, being a bit of a romantic royal watcher loved the idea of watching my first royal wedding in the same time zone as it was happening. Having drug myself out of bed in the middle of the night for these royal affairs starting when I was 11 years old in 1981 to watch Diana and Charles marry on a grainy, definitely not a High Definition screen TV back in Idaho. 

fullsizeoutput_db8dI told this excitedly to our Irish hosts as they settled us into our place. He responded with a wit and tone that slightly insults and grounds me in a way that various Celtic tones can.  I was certainly welcome to watch the marriage of one of the members of the British Royalty that oppressed his culture and country for hundreds of years and he hoped I had a good time but, he would clearly be doing something else that next morning. We said our cheery good nights and moved on. 

The neighborhood was sweet and easy to navigate. We spent time wandering the coast line of the Dublin Bay. You could see the iconic smoke stacks that are present in many a U2 80s video. I heard they don’t use them anymore but, they signify Dublin so, they stay erect. fullsizeoutput_db84

fullsizeoutput_da49We had two versions of our trip in Dublin. The first half with our in-laws and the second, the Gurr Original Four  – Back to Basics. With my in-laws we enjoyed touring the city by bus and took a trip north out to Malahide to a lovely castle that had been in the same family for over 800 years. The cost of running a castle being what it is and not having descendants to pass it down to, the last owner passed it to at Trust to let it be shared with the community. 

fullsizeoutput_db67It was beautiful fully furnished and delightful to wander around it and had it’s share of ghost stories told by the animated guides a long the way. The northern area outside Dublin is really quite lovely to see and the seaside makes for nice views and wanders along as you see the tide change the view dramatically.

We did the requisite trip to Temple Bar and wandered around the areas where live music spilled out of doorways as you ambled on the cobblestones. There are brightly painted doors here and there which startle you as you move along.IMG_7936

We were present in Ireland during the historic, national vote on the right to abortion services. While in the country you could not miss the signs everywhere proclaiming the pro or con of the vote outcome. Not only that, there were people knocking on doors (they even came to our Airbnb and walking the streets making sure everyone they passed had access to information about the vote.

fullsizeoutput_db87The vote was establishing access to abortion services for citizens for the first time ever. Information showed that tens of thousands would travel to Great Britain every year to be able to make this medical choice.

Also, that the law was so stringent that women who were experiencing a medical trauma could not have the procedure done to save their lives. So, the bios of women who have passed over the years were posted for all to see as were the arguments for keeping the status quo on accessibility.

The majority of the signs were for the Yes vote, the change. The vote ended with the majority of the country voting for change which now being implimented. A major change for this island country. IMG_7943

The grandparents left in the middle of our stay. You can see the start of their flight journey below. The second part of our journey will be noted in the next post.

r7u4+q7fQgWhKK0EYRFXAgIn the meantime, hello again and get ready for more posts to come that introduce you too some amazing folks who helped shape the last chapters of this round the world trip and let you know this family is not done moving around outside of our comfort zone and see new things and learn more about others and, in turn, about ourselves.

fullsizeoutput_e9eaSo, thanks again for reading and stay tuned!

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Dutch Treat as we Tip Toed Through the Tulips

Tulips in bloom!

Kings Day celebrations

The time in the Netherlands was exhilerating for me. I was following a dream to bring my kids to the Netherlands to show them the places that have touched my heart. These are places that make my heart squeeze with ache when I think of them. These are places I have lived, walked, biked, worked, studied and loved in.

My life long relationship with the Netherlands started when I was barely a 20 year old coming to study here in a program for my year abroad back in 1989. I lived in Groningen, Tilburg and Leiden. 

In the intervening 28 years I have found myself trying to find ways to come back again and again. I studied here for two years total and ended up living and working here back in 2000-2001 then came back to the States to be with my terminally ill mother. 

My former flat with lovely round windows.

I have visited for short periods here and there and have many lovely friends and connections that are Dutch or I met them in the Netherlands.

Dear Mette on a Gezellig evening

So coming back to the NL this time had a lot of importance for me and I tried to make is so I didn’t put too much pressure on my children to fall in love with this beautiful, unique country. But, it was hard, really, really hard not to.

We stayed for a week with a friend and his family across the river Ij in Amsterdam.  I had met this friend my first few days here back in 1989. Berend met us at the station and swept us up into his arms (he is a big guy!) and welcomed us into his family. 

The Kings Day celebrations were happening while we were there. This includes celebrations of street fairs, music, food and drink but, it also has what could possibly be the worlds largest swap market/yard sale.

These Dutch lads really drink their milk. Elianto is 16 year old!

All Dutch people bring out their wares that they are wishing to get rid of while perusing the offerings of their neighbors. It might be that some are just swapping goods each year. In any case, there are rows and rows of things carefully laid out on blankets on the cobblestone streets. If you wished you could furnish a whole house on this day!

It was our first real plunge into visual arts as we walked the halls of the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh museum. On this trip, we have been careful to avoid overloading our kids with too many museums so they don’t blend into a dreaded, unwanted march through ‘old things’.

My favorite cafe from the last three decades.

Taking our time with these places and using the provided children’s scavenger hunt book by the museum made our excursions rather interesting and delightful. 

We also found our way to the Anne Frank House which is a must for any trip to Amsterdam and a powerful example and reminder of the costs of war and conflict. When we hear bells anywhere now Canyon says he thinks of Anne when she heard the nearby bells of Westerkerk (Church) from her hiding place.

I’m wondering what the boys will take away from these travels. We are exploring so many treasured places but, they are also cherished by me. Sometimes the impact is big and others times it’s mild. 

Ulrika and her masterpieces!

My hope is that years from now they will remember some of these walks, talks and forays into history and pull out a nugget they want to unpack a bit more. I have found that I have so much I want to write about and will continue to unpack this trip myself – through writing here and such. 

Our time in the Netherland was punctuated with interactions with friends and their families and those experiences warm my heart. We spent time in Amsterdam and then went on to Leiden where my true romance with the Netherlands solidified. 

This is a magical medieval city that still has the charm of cobblestones, a city citidel that you can walk the perimeter without permission of a ticket or a gate. I had spent so many times walking these walls and in the evening light got to see my boys playing out their fantasy knight characters. 

The Burght – Citidel from the siege in the 1500s.

Many choices in eggs

Leiden has a weekly market at which you could buy your supplies for the week. Meat, fish, cheese, nuts, fruit, vegetables and bunches and bunches of bright flowers for cost of a couple of coffees. Some of the merchants I had bought from 25 years ago were still there. The market is draped along side the canals in the center of the city. The journey around the neighborhood is delightful. 

One of my old haunts for coffee was still serving a lekker kopje (tasty cup of coffee) and it is on the sight where public executions took place hundreds of years ago and now houses the Universities Law school. Go figure.

Wall Poetry in Leiden

The coffee and beer was still tasty as well as the applegebak met slagroom – Apple pie with whipped cream which seems to be a common accompaniment to any afternoon coffee. 

Cafe Culture in Amsterdam

Beautiful buildings nestled up to each other date 400 years ago and offer a lot of charm as you walk though small alleyways hugging the walls to avoid being ringed at by passing bicyclers. We even rented bikes one day and made it to the North Sea.

It was about 22 miles round trip and a bit more than my sons had signed up for but, overall – brilliant! One of the best places to bike around since it is often so easy to pedal on the flat roads. 

Leiden has a beautiful culture of wall poems which grace the sides of random buildings all over the city. The poems are written in the tongue in which the author wrote them so then provide a culture lesson on attempting to translate their meaning.

I have wanted to start this tradition in my new adopted home town of Portland as I find it so impressive and charming to bump into these literary gifts as one walks around town. 

National Park on the way to Kruller Muller

Being here also gave me a chance to dust off my Dutch skills. While Dutch people speak English very well, my attempts were met with enthusiasm and encouragement.

I had forgotten how much I could actually remember. Also, the looks on Canyon and Oakley’s faces were inspiring as they felt I now had a secret identity that would allow me to communicate in this language. 

My other old home..up top.

One of my most cherished places in the Netherlands is the Kroller Muller Museum which is an art museum and one of the first places I ever went in the country back in 1989.

Since then I have dragged my family and friends to this art museum that has a several acre outdoor sculptor garden in the middle of the largest natural area in the country. 

You can’t really just drive up there. You can bus in or as we did pedal one of the free white bicycles provided at the beginning or middle of the great park.

You can travel for a couple of miles and wander off road and feel like you are in blessed isolation unlike one might imagine exists in the Netherlands. 

Art in the Park – Stairway to the Skies – at Kruller Muller

We also connected with friends of mine and oh joy, we ran into them by accident a day early (boating in the canals and Mette proving canal side coffee service) which allow us more time to connect and share our histories of the last nearly two decades. 

It felt like coming home to see my friends and spend quality time with them, meet their kids and, hopefully create more opportunities for more visits to come.

Wall Poetry

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South West France – A Spring of Consciousness

A bumpy bus through France in the middle of the night landed us in South Western France for our new house sitting assignment in La Trappe. It was daylight savings time and our host graciously picked us up at the nearest bus station a 50 minute drive away from their farm and at 5:30 (really 4:30!) in the morning. 

On this trip, we try to be as economical as possible while we move around the globe. That means trying to find the cheapest way across a country. The bus to SW France felt like a red-eye flight but, we recovered soon enough. 

House sitting also provides us with a place to be a family while we also ‘live’ for a bit. Yes, there are chores, meal plans, and world schooling schedules. We have noticed that we have incorporated more movies than we would have at ‘home’ in Portland, Oregon as we have different time schedules. We often bring in location compatible movies. So, you can bet your baguette we had a rousing viewing of Les Miserables.

Many stories to share and these are some of our recent tid bits.

We discovered several things on our trip to France. Rural France. Sounds so romantic, right? Yes, some of it and some is hard. Here are about 10 of our discoveries. Not a complete list of course.

  1. You can get baguette in a vending machine easier than you can get soda. I was completely mesmerized by the convenience, cleverness and cheekiness of vending machines in the French countryside that sold baguette. It was funny, as sometimes you might find competing companies with machines within several hundred yards of each other but, then none for many, many miles.
  1. In all our travels around the world, France was the place lest likely to find someone who spoke English. Or was at least willing to speak English with us. We would ask (in French) if they spoke English and they all, every single one, said ‘no’. They could a little but, didn’t want to be thought of as having a good command of the language or so we think. 
  1. Not speaking English-made this part of our entire trip the most lonely. I am not wanting you to feel sorry for us, I get it. We were in South Western France and it was magical and lovely but, when you can’t even talk to the cashiers, bakery attendants, market folks…anyone, you tend to feel rather lonely. More of a reason to learn French! We were there for more than three weeks with just the four of us for company. We really enjoyed our hosts (English retirees) when they returned.
  1. We were in the countryside when all things were budding and blooming. A very magical time to bear witness to the wonders that effected all the senses and even some allergies. We found new ways to pantomime allergies in the local pharmacies. Also, thank goodness for Google Translate!
  1. We learned a lot about French Kings, Crusades, Roman invasions, Charlemagne, conflicts with the English. I’ve been reading a great book called 1000 Years of the English Annoying the French by Stephen Clarke which has helped us gain some perspective on this nations’s rich history and with a lot of humor.
  1. France still follows the scheduling plan of most stores closing for lunch, from about 12-2:30pm and most restaurants only being open from about 12-2pm. If you want to do one of those activities outside of those official time frames. Too bad!!
  1. Paris is a beautiful city and what the world mostly thinks of when one thinks of France, however, most resident people we met have either never been there or have only been once or twice. There are many rich and thriving cultural experiences outside of the capital. 
  1. Pastries and baked goods have their own food group in France. Not only in sumptuous flavors but, with artistry befitting an exhibition. 
  1. We celebrated the double blue moon in France. When we have two blue moons in one calendar year. Blue moon is when there are two full moons in one calendar month. This happens about three to four times a century. We howled with the best of them. Our previous full moons? Thailand, Cambodia, Denmark and now France. 
  1. Cognac is a kind of brandy made from grapes distilled in barrels like whiskey. Cognac is only made in specific regions in France, specifically Charente and Charente-Maritime. 

We have more to say about France but, wanted to share these gems. More to come about the specifics of house sitting many chickens, sneaky cats and a lovable dog named Zara in a 200-year-old farm-house. 

Meanwhile, thanks for reading. 

One of the bedrooms in our 200-year-old house.

The La Trappe Tree we watched blossom during our stay.

Last day at our tree.

Chicken Donuts!!

 

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Brussels Reunions and Starting The Seeds of Kids European Friendships

We arrived in Brussels on a blustery March day after a daylong journey from Hamburg, Germany via Koln. It is delightful to experience the German precision timing of the trains complete with markings to let you know exactly where you need to get on your train compartment. 

Our time in Brussels was punctuated by connections with friends from a while ago (since 2000), even longer (1991) and some time on our own after getting a bit ill.

After so many months on the road, it was a delight to be with friendly faces that welcomed us into their homes with open arms, home cooked meals.

One friend has two boys a little younger than Canyon and Oakley and thus, had the best selection of dress up outfits and toys for make believe games boys of 8 and 10 could wish for. 

It was soothing to be in someone else’s family rhythm of market shopping, cooking, washing up and school work. Also, to be the adults and tasting Belgian beers and soft French cheeses while the kids ran around. It felt like a holiday!

Our continuing world schooling agenda was punctuated by a visit to the Royal Museum of the Armed Forces and Military History  in which we saw many of the uniforms from WWII, our first real Knights in armor as well as 1000 year old swords.

It is one thing to read about them and quite another to see them live. Oakley is now on a Knights kick that has been carrying us throughout Europe. 

We also got to a county where I could brush off my Dutch skills and plunk clumsily through conversations to get some of our needs met.

The first time in many moons that I had a little bit of skill in the local language. Yes, most Europeans are adept at speaking English but, I really like to try to address folks in the native tongue when possible. 

We had been doing this for awhile. Learning please, thank you and the first 10 numbers whenever possible. In Belgium, my effort stalled when we met French speakers as my French is very, very, very, very weak but, folks were very accommodating to my Dutch.

In any case, our kids were wide eyed when I spoke in a language they didn’t know I knew. Canyon immediately proclaiming that he wants to learn another language and study. Who said we can’t inspire our kids. If any of this travel helps us inspire our kids well, Yahoo! That has been the purpose from this trip from the get go. 

With our friends, we also visited the House of European History at the European Parliament. A six floored, super friendly, kid oriented way to get some understanding of all these unique countries that have banded together to create the European Union. Whatever your thoughts of Brexit, one ought to explore the layers of this unique, complex gathering of countries. 

Ahhh, it was delightful. The sampled frites, organic markets, gorgeous chocolate and sumptuous coffees not to mention the beers. Connecting with long time friends and hopefully, creating some connections for our kids in making friends that I hope will last their life times. That is part of the purpose of this trip.

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Hamburg – A Beatles and Pretzel Tasting Sojourn

Sol: 250 now…a look at our trip to Hamburg….

Rathaus of Hamburg

What my children say I say much of the time.

We left Denmark and traveled by train and ferry to Germany for a couple days as a birthday trip for Kelvin. We were on our way to visit friends in Belgium and we decided that a little foray into Germany would be a nice way to celebrate Kelvin’s day. 

We arrived in Hamburg in the evening and clunked our way across several cobblestone streets to our hotel. We have been very economical and had not stayed at a hotel for the four of us in nearly six weeks.

It was a colorful neighborhood and on this brisk, cold night several of the natives offered us companionship (well, more Kelvin than the rest of us) and they looked cold too! At least not very well dressed for the weather. Perhaps the welcome crew?

Oakley in one of his favorite spaces.

Anyway, after Oakley spent the night in a closet (hey, who says kids have to have their reasons for being unique) we found our way to the City Hall and central part of the city. We took part in a walking tour of the city. It was one of those ‘free’ tours that you ‘tip’ at the end what you think it was worth. 

Our guide, originally from Pakistan, gave us an outstanding tour. His perspective as a non-native was illuminating. I learned things I never knew before or at the least expanded on my limited knowledge about Hamburg.

Did you know…

  • that Hamburg as one of the largest ports in Europe and has been for centuries,
  • Hamburg is the second largest city in Germany
  • that there is a long thriving Red Light District in Hamburg (hence the welcoming committees)
  • Hamburg is situated on the Elbe River (a common crossword clue for you Monday puzzlers)
  • that you can get the best sausages with a hunk of bread and a big dallop of mustard in nearly every neighborhood
  • that the Beatles played here over a two year period in 1960-1962 and did eight hour shows every night for weeks on end…..All this among other things we pondered.

What remains of St. Nicholas Church.

As we wandered around with our walking guide we learned another extraordinary fact was that Hamburg was bombed relentlessly during the 2nd world war. So much so that bombing raids in July 1943 by the Royal Air Force killed over 43,000 civilians and injuring 37,000 more with another million having been evacuated after the raids. It virtually destroyed the city. 

Hamburg is also home to Tesch and Stabenow, the company that invented and produced the gas Zyklon B used in the concentration camps. The owner of the company (Bruno Tesch) was arrested a war criminal, tried and executed after the war in the city. The building of his company has a memorial to acknowledge their role in the war. Bruno tried to deny responsibility for his role but, it came out that he is the one that suggested it to the Hitler and his team. 

Anyway, like the rest of us…Hamburg is much more than it’s worst story and we did find this city to be delightful. Even though many buildings were destroyed there were a lot of unique structures to explore.

Walking around Hamburg one can’t help but notice the enormous port still very much in place and very active. The river Elbe is broad and from a vantage point above you get the idea of how vast it really can be.

The Elbphilharmonie

A new building opened in January of 2017 called the Elbphilharmonie. This building which is one of the largest and acoustically advanced concert halls in the world, came with a pretty price tag that cost more than the budget allocated (don’t they all) so, it is free to visit for all Germans since their taxes covered all the extra cost.

The beginning budget was 241 million Euros and it ended up being 789 million Euros (that is nearly a billion US dollars for anyone keeping track. It is a marvel to visit and gaze out over the Elbe River. 

View from the Elbphilharmonie

We spent a scant 48 hours here before heading to visit friends in Belgium. It was delightful and rewarding. Happy Belated Birthday Kelvin! We made sure he got some German beer while he was conducting his own German pretzel tastings around the city. 

Again, thanks for reading and following along.

One of the love bridges.

The Chilihaus – Expressionistic Architecture from the 1920s.

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Danish Hygge and What We Learned in Being Calm and Cozy

When we arrived in Denmark for our three-week plus house and pet sit, we were a bit more worn out than we had imagined. The farm was the home to a couple who taught us a lot about Danish Hygge. One who worked part-time as a butcher and the other a foot and physical therapy (not to be mixed!). Their farm-house was nearly 140 years old, had two floors and easily six bedrooms. Wonderous views from each direction through windows and skylights showed us the ever-changing sky. 

Our charges were one cat named Merlot who brought gifts of hard-fought birds and mice and a three-year old fluffy, playful Irish Terrier named Rusty who exhibited the habits of the cutest cartoon dog you could imagine. 

Additionally, we cared for over a dozen chickens including five roosters, three of which became dinner…more on that later. 

When we landed after a literal round the globe journey lasting five days I fell ill with the Danish flu. Or at least the flu that I heard was running around Europe and the rest of the Western world.

For the next two weeks I struggled with fevers, malaise as well as a heavy chest cold. Of all the places to fall ill, this warm home proved to be very soothing recovery haven indeed. I was exceedingly grateful for this space.  I went to a Danish Doctor to see what I should do to help feel better. I asked for something akin to Nyquil. This may have been the first time in my life I wanted Nyquil. He looked up it up online and said the Danes don’t have anything like that but, recommended that I go drink tea, rest and watch Netflix. The modern Hygge.

After months of being in tropical weather and convinced we would not have a ‘regular’ winter we were treated to several winter storms, snow flurries and downright blizzards. We were overjoyed to make snowmen, slide on some ice and have snowball fights. I was more an observer but, we all very much enjoyed it. 

The kitchen we were occupying had all the supplies one (mainly my husband) would need to create sumptuous home cooked meals. Kelvin was in his element as he made stews, soups, roast chickens, cassoulets, braised meats and salads all washed down with hearty wines and cold, clear water.

We consumed cup after cup of coffee or tea several times a day and often pared them with Danish baked goods found in neighboring villages. We had farm fresh eggs (up to 12 a day!) as well as dark, thick bread that after toasted only needed a smear of butter to become a slice of heaven. 

I now know why Danes are known for their baked goods. The danishes we have in the States are a very poor representation of what the Danes actually make. When we made our way into the nearby town of Svendborg we inevitably visited Brod – A Danish Baking Studio which quickly became our new haunt.

Kelvin make plans with Ib (our host) to ‘take care of’ three chickens that were harassing many of the hens in the pen. He made a list to prepare for the slaughter and to process the meat.

I found this list and had to double take as Kelvin had forgotten the ‘e’ on humane as I read his list that looked like a serial killer prep list. Maybe too many Law and Order episodes from my past? In any case, the whole event was another life skill world school moment for the boys. 

We had been away from a fully supplied kitchen and we relished in having the ability to make breakfast, lunch and dinner on site, warm ourselves by the fireside while wearing the handmade wooly socks made by our host. Can you say Hygge? Ib and Ann offered up all their coats, boots, gloves, hats, scarves (even a Gryffindor one much to Oakley’s delight) and overalls as well as their car to supply us with the tools to journey around the property and the Island of Fyn. 

We did make a couple of excursions to round out our Danish experience. We had whimsical world school day in Odense, the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen and followed big red foot prints on the cobble stones to trace his roots around town. All while enjoying street art, warm drinks and Hans skill as a paper cut out artist.

The Princess and the Pea Bed

The boys were also invited to talk to a local school. We visited a class of 8-10 year olds as they were learning English. Canyon was very brave and presented at the beginning of class and conducted questions in his forward fashion. We continued to experience a humble awareness of the language aptitude of the Danes. Most people already knowing more than two languages by the age of 10 years old. 

No visit to Denmark would be complete without involvement in a Lego activity. We went to the Lego House in Billund for a day of Lego. Billund is the birthplace of Lego. I was undoubtedly surprised to be so entertained. I knew the boys would be, however, I was childlike as I went room to room to see the interactive activities set up around Lego pieces. My favorite was a live Sim City-like interactive play of making a city. I had to work that evening so we regretfully had to leave before we were all ready to go. 

In the mainstream media, there has been a liberal use of the term Hygge. Admittedly, I did not know about this term until I arrived but, a friend commented on our experience and said it looked very Hygge. It is hard to translate into English as we don’t have an exact equivalent. 

I found this New Yorker article  Hygge – A form of Cozy which helped inform my experience. We found this word to be a true representation of our experience.

We found our experiences steeped in warm, cozy, pleasant surroundings and, at times, lit in a low-light glow all while enjoying simple pleasures such as a tasty cup of coffee while watching the snow fall from a fire warmed room. I dug into crosswords, some books, cozy blankets and sweet Danish bread after walking Rusty in the brisk, clean air. It did feel like a calming elixir. 

Our experience with the Danes as a people was also warming. They won’t walk up to you to introduce themselves in grocery store, however, once introduced they proved to be some of the warmest, friendliest people I’ve ever met.

The daughter of our host, Line, brought food and family over for an afternoon of Hygglick activities including cuddling the pets and playing chess all while eating homemade Brunsviger, a kind of celebratory brown sugar bread, liver paste, cheese, chocolate for bread slices and endless cups of tea and coffee.

Line also provided Kelvin and I with our first night and honestly, our first several hour stretch while awake as she took care of the boys and sent us off on a night alone (gasp!) in a nearby hotel. The first time in 200 days which we had a night of sleep and a hot meal without the kids with us. We barely knew what to do but, found ourselves happily experiencing Hygge with some tasty beer and snacks at a pub and a super snooze in a cozy bed.

Our hosts came back and we stayed on for a few days to celebrate Kelvin’s birthday with them. Some alcohol was consumed and we only had to totter upstairs and curl up in extra fluffy duvets. They were kind, generous and very pleasant.

So, we wrapped up our time in Denmark a bit heavier around the waist but, happily rested and well connected with our new friends as we left feeling like family. 

Line and various drinks for a Danish dinner party.

Rusty and very cold boys at the Cold War Museum

Winter!

Street Art and Oakley in Odense

How to choose a flavor of a lollypop?

Hans Christian Anderson

My Lego House Photo

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Lego-lisiousness in Legoland!

Sol 86

As I sit up on my 9th story perch in Ho Chi Mihn City

HCMC Writing Spot

 

I am reflecting on our time in Malaysia. There is so much to write about here in Vietnam and I will get to that but, first want to revisit our adventures at Legoland in Southern Malaysia and Singapore.

Going to a theme park was not part of our original plan but, the opportunity came up, our kids LOVE Legos and the boys were struggling with a bit of homesickness.

The Lobby of Legoland Hotel

Now, do we run off to a theme park every time we are sad…no but, it sure doesn’t hurt to go that extra kilometer (see what I did there with the metric system reference?) to soothe ourselves a bit.

LEGOLAND HOTEL

Legoland Malaysia was pretty sweet. I haven’t been to Disneyland since I was a teenager but, I imagine it is like the ‘happiest place on earth’. We decided to stay at the Legoland Hotel which has themed rooms with scavenger hunts, Lego characters walking around, life-size Lego mini figures, characters walking around and LEGOS everywhere to play with. Big blocks and little blocks.

There are daily building contests and workshops as well as a character parade in the lobby. It was so sweet to see joy on so many faces. Not just ours but, the plenitude of families from all over. There were families there from India, China, and all over SE Asia. We were definitely the minority as we would nod hello to another ‘Western” family from time to time.

Breakfast and dinner buffets were a cultural lesson in itself. So many options of food from standard Western choices to a plethora of Eastern ones too. Did you want Dim Sum with your pancakes? Or French Pastries with Chinese Congee porridge with dried fish on top? Or a traditionally poured spiced chai, watermelon juice, white coffee or full cream milk?

Out in the park, did you want to swim in your hijib or swimsuit or use the body dryer (like a giant hair dryer for your whole body) after getting wet on a ride? Did you want to pray when the call to prayer happened or have a dragon fruit smoothie?

Prayer Spot in Park

All of this while being surrounded by Lego figures?

Our room was the Adventure theme which the boys picked out. It seemed very appropriate for our current journey. Maps and decor from an Egyptian papyrus abound.

Huge ‘Body Dryers’ and all the teens getting dry.

Because we are family half filled with introverts we spent plenty of time in the room. While it was our first place without a kitchen during our travels we did order room service which, amazingly didn’t cost more than the restaurant and the delivery folks refused tips only wanting you to put in a good word at the ‘opinion kiosks’ around the place.

A scooter accident portrayed at Mini-land

THE PARKS

The rides were fine. Oakley tried his first roller coaster and was thrilled. The most impressive areas to me were the Minilands where replicas of iconic places around Asia are constructed to impressive, minute detail. Even the scooter accidents with media and police presence on the street. I could have spent hours here. It was super hot so, we melted as we perused even with the welcome mister machines nearby.

The Star Wars exhibit was stunning with a room dedicated to each episode including the TV Clone Wars. We are Star Wars family so, we loved this geeked out to our hearts content.

They have a water park as well and it was also fine. A lazy river bobbing with big legos you can attach to your floating device. A ‘Build a Raft” float as it were.

In any case, it was lovely to have a big family time in what felt like a big playground. I heard ‘Everything is Awesome’ more times than I care to count but, it was worth it. We did let the boys get a few, small Lego sets to take with us on the road as nothing beats the blues like a couple of hours of Lego play.

A BALANCE OF TRAVEL AND FAMILY

Our travel journey is of where we are going but, it is also richly in the details of our relationships with our kids and between my husband and I. We are a collection of varying personalities and we all need different things to fill our batteries. We discover that more and more as we move along.

Family outings are my favorite and seeing the world whiz by in my window really fills my cup but, I know Oakley and Kelvin need more down time. Canyon too at times. I do too in my own way. Writing is actually very, very helpful for me to sort my head.

I get worried about the things we are doing or not doing and if we are keeping the kids on track in school. Do we communicate enough with family and friends. How do we sort out the time differences and make connections.

Accepting that we can be doing a once in a lifetime thing and still feel rather lonely and miss down time tucked in our oversized duvet back in Oregon.

It is all a balance. And we are working on it day by day. Okay, okay….enough about our inner-psyche.

Next, we headed to Singapore for a couple of days before heading to Vietnam. More on that in our next blog.

As always, thanks for reading and following!

I’m still in love with my Chef Husband but, it was nice to met Lego Chef!

The Deathstar!

The bathrooms at Legoland

Mini-Legoland

Ha! Love the sense of humor!

Fresh Seafood at Legoland?

 

round the world travel

Malaysia on My Mind

Sol 74 

We are on week two in Malaysia and just left Kuala Lumpur for the south. We came  to be near a big city to find some Halloween experiences for our sometimes homesick boys, buy some supplies and to make some plans. 

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Halloween party at Jump Street

IMG_7256It has been a delightful place to see albeit a bit further removed from our more hands on experience in Bali. A bit of an adjustment after Bali as we are on the 16th floor of a shiny apartment and not even a third of the scooters we have been used to seeing whizzing past.

We have been introduced to a large, multicultural city which is predominately Muslim and full of dining, entertainment choices and other big city options. We have spent some time planning our next weeks as well as taking care of some tasks. Kuala Lumpur is known for ‘medical tourism’ and I decided to try it out.

I have hypothyroidism for 10 years and have been managing this by getting blood tests every couple months and taking an appropriate dose of daily medication to balance it. When I left Portland, I had a three month supply of my medication and our last prescription plan wouldn’t let me have anymore. Which is not usual, but annoying. So, I knew I would need to get a new supply from the road. 

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Check out the hours. He is almost always here.


So, I went to a doctor here in Kuala Lumpur. The host of our Airbnb helped me find one and my experience was pretty interesting, at least from the point of view of an American used to our complicated medical/insurance institutions.

The Doctor, Dr. Anthony Samy, was everything I needed including kind and no-nonsense.

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Dr. Anthony

I had to show up and wait (no appointments allowed) but, only waited about 30 minutes. He chatted with me, asked what I needed and took a blood sample. His assistants spent a lot time calculating prices of medications and we got it all sorted out.

Two days later I came back for the results, another consult and then was given four months of medications. My only concern was that the sense of privacy is different there.

They took me in a room to be weighed and there was the doctor at his desk talking to another patient.

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Paying for my medications.

“Oh, excuse me!” I said, but, they were indifferent, shrugged their shoulders and went back to their conversation.

The medical office also takes you on without a lot of information. My script has my first name only on it. It reminded me of Dr. Fleishman in Northern Exposure when Marilyn would just number the people in the waiting room.

While I was a bit worried about the process, it turned out fine. In the entire process with two doctors visits, blood sample, lab work/results and four months medication the total cost was $61. Wow…

In Kuala Lumpur we also visited the tallest twin buildings in the world. The Petronas Twin Towers  and  KL Bird Park an amazing bird park with an outdoor aviary several acres big. We also visited the National Mosque of Malaysia and they proudly told us that Obama had visited there just last year.IMG_7392

fullsizeoutput_9dc8In our world-schooling lesson we had a long lesson on mosques and Islam. It is always fascinating for Kelvin and I to see things and think they are a big deal and then have the boys just accept all as ‘normal’. People doing their everyday tasks, working as a nurse, checkout person at the grocery store, kids jumping on trampolines or on school trip at the park – all in their hijibs. So many colorful varieties.

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The other Twin Tower and I

Normalizing plurality. Always a good world-school lesson.

We are in Malaysia for one more week then are heading to Vietnam with a two day visit in Singapore. We made to Johur yesterday via bus from Kuala Lumpur. From our current place we can see across the river into Singapore and the kids love being able to say. “Hey, I can see into another country over there!” and then they collapse in a pile of giggles.

As usual, thanks for following.

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National Mosque

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School on the Bus to Johur.

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Our Bali Excursion is Winding Down, Our Life Long Love Affair is Just Beginning

Sol 61: Coming up on three weeks in Bali. We’ve had some highs and some lows. The awe at the constant beauty around us has not waned. It seems every time I look up I see something unique, amazing, delightful or a bit different and quirky.

The bargaining never stops.

New Kite Flying Friends

My husband is tallying a list of ‘things I have seen being carried on a scooter’ and it just about contains everything possible. I’ve seen tiny, tiny babies nestled between ma and pa, panes of glass being held aloft, piles of branches, sticks and grass, complete mini-stores where one might make a meal or sell you a plethora of snacks. All of this wheeling by you.

Dewi makes the best meals!

The places we have stayed have been varied from an estate/villa such as the place we are at now to a house in the middle of a more tattered neighborhood where our point woman was amazing. She arranged for our boys to fly kites with her sons and made the best Nasi Goreng.

Emade, our amazing driver from Ubud. Email him for driving at nyoman.wati72@gmail.com

We ended up leaving early though as we found a dead bird under our bed and a bird nest above our son’s bed in the thatched roof that was less than sanitary. Bird poo on your sheets and pillows? We had to draw the line somewhere. The host (whom we never met) told us by email ‘that is nature’ and I am inclined to think it is but, it doesn’t have to be on my son’s head.

Dinner on Jimbaran Beach.

We are getting more adaptive in the heat. I wouldn’t say more used to it. You can see why people have plunge pools to dip into and wash off the heat of the day.

Monkey back rubs at the Monkey Forest Sanctuary.

We can see Mt. Agung from our current house and she is still resting. We are grateful for this but, also are acutely aware that there are several thousand people still living away from their homes out of the evacuation zone in refugee camps. This is heart breaking and a struggle.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces

Our boys have adjusted to mom and dad being the guides/teachers for the interim.

They are adjusting and we are soaking up our last week here as Friday, we head to Malaysia

There are very typical Bali experiences I am committing to memory. I share 10 of them with you here.

  • the sweeping up of all the flowers that fell overnight with a broom made of palm leaves.
  • the sweet smell of incense and tiny offerings that show up before most doors or walkways.
  • the low, guttural mooing of the cows with giant bells around their necks.
  • the assortment of flying bugs some bedazzling with colorful, sparkling wings and others just larger than I have ever seen before.
  • houses with open walls that get transformed in the evening to a closed in space with the pull of a curtain.
  • the frogs that take up residence in the bathrooms or guarding the end of  our bed.
  • the offer of a 100 cab, scooter rides if you are merely standing on the side of the road.
  • the vibrant color of fruit smoothies that rival any modern painting
  • the intricate carvings in wood and stone that are done with a hammer by the roadside
  • the absolute kindness of most people who wish to see you well.

Canyon warning the rabbits they may become pets or someone’s dinner.

Nothing like seeing a structure that is over 600 years old when your own country’s european settlement history started after this temple was built.

My new favorite Pringles flavor?

Doorway to our current bedroom.

Boys paying respects by wearing a sarong and really looking good while doing it!

Night food market.

Grilling the meat and using the fan to bring in the customers as well as spread the smoke.

Kelvin in his element with the cutest photo bomber in the back!

Tenenungan Waterfalls

Reading Kindles while waiting for a ride.

 

Family photo

A huge shout out to our friends Robyn and Mark who hosted us a couple times in Australia. We want them to know we so appreciate them!! Happy Wedding next month!

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3 Cats, 3 Dogs, 3 Chickens, 1 boy who turned 10 and a Volcano Watch.

Sol 42: We are in our last week in OZ! I didn’t know was the nick name for this wonderful country as every time I hear that I think of a prison drama on HBO but, never you mind.

Last week, we went a different direction by splurging on passes to the amusement park of Dream World and White Water World .  This is out of the ordinary for us but, one turning 10 is a pretty big deal too.

We have never been to Disneyland but, this may count as a good alternative. Kelvin and I have not been to any Disney park since the 1980s so, we don’t have a lot to compare it to.

It was fun, some crazy rides and loads of old school favorites. Also, not so crowded so all introverts in the family adjusted well. We packed our lunches and easily headed to the car to eat or carried what we needed with us.
For an eight year old and newly minted ten-year old it was the ‘bees knees’. My words, not theirs. Theirs included ‘This is sick!’ and ‘What the ‘bleep’ (yes, they say actual word bleep).

These sound bites don’t sound so good in print. It felt good to be in a place with a bunch of other kids too.

There are few amusement parks where you can see Kangaroos, Dingoes, Bilbys, and lizards that are all over the place. They might even visit your picnic lunch (the lizards, not the Dingoes!).

Oakley’s favorite place was the Lego Store as you walked in. This sounds like the ‘liquor store’ when spoken by a native Aussie so, my confusion was apparent. And disappointed to having no wine with the Legos. But, alas.

Canyon starting his Chauffeur career.

Canyon, our ever-present water hound, was pleased with all the water slides and joyous drops from up high. He even learned to drive a little.

Kelvin took a lot of photos (you should check out his blog at Degrees of Kelvin to see some of his perspective on this trip.

He always shows us sides of the trip we hadn’t seen and close-ups with all the birds and animals. All of us had a great time, we had a couple of day pass that we felt was very affordable.

Which was good as Oakley had a fever the first day and he and I hung out at the house with the dogs for the day while Kelvin and Canyon adventured.

Canyon bringing Mossimo back as Oakley looks down from the bedroom.

The dog and chicken sit is going well. There are three dogs with varying personalities and one is blind so, we carry him down the stairs to wee/poo. The house is called a Queenslander so, it basically built on stilts.

It is a single level for living but, the bottom is like an open spaced garage/washroom/storage room. Fresh eggs every morning is a plus as well.

We also have been getting in our last swims in the Australian seas as well as trips to the pharmacies, book stores and other supply places we might not so easily access on our next leg.

We have been finding our way with the world-schooling. It is a rhythm that we are all trying to balance. Kelvin and I take turns ‘teaching’ or ‘guiding’ as in the Montessori way.

We did Skype with the classroom and that was helpful for the boys to see some of their friends and realize that they are far behind or missing big events.

Yes, there are doing cool things in school but, it’s not like the boys are left out. As they check in with their reporting of their adventures. This helps with the home/friend-sickness that comes up from time to time.

Did I mention that volcano? The last couple weeks there is has been a lot in the news about Mt.Agung’s volcano activity.

List to report to the class.

We have talked with ex-pats that are there and contacted several places and we are getting the go ahead to proceed.

Even the Balinese Tourism Chief asked folks to not change their plans and to still come to Bali. We are not planning on being in place near the Mt.Agung so we are going.

We don’t currently have flight plans to leave which is for the best as we can pick and choose when and where we go next.

We have accommodations for nearly three weeks and will keep a keen eye on what is happening.

The last couple days are connections with long time friends. Staying in their wonderfully comfy, clean house warm with lively conversation, tasty meals and, as Oakley ferreted out, more Legos.

We did tip our hat to OZ at Sky Point , one of the tallest buildings in the Southern Hemisphere. It was a great way to get some perspective when getting ready to leave an area.

The views were unsurprising and there were many, many pods of Humpback Whales breaching, slapping and altogether frolicking out in the ocean. Oz is truly friendly, beautiful and ginormous. We will have to come back.

I think this just might be Kelvin and I in Lego form.

Kody helping Kelvin even though he is blind and deaf he knows good food when he smells it. So do the Geckos that climbed in the window to peek at the activity.

On the job, walking the dogs.

Canyon is trying three new things in each country and it was Sushi for his birthday. A new love for him (and a delight for me!).

Dinner with Deb, our first Trusted Housesitter host and a friend for life now. She has also offered Canyon an opportunity to come back when older to sit again.