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South West France – A Spring of Consciousness

A bumpy bus through France in the middle of the night landed us in South Western France for our new house sitting assignment in La Trappe. It was daylight savings time and our host graciously picked us up at the nearest bus station a 50 minute drive away from their farm and at 5:30 (really 4:30!) in the morning. 

On this trip, we try to be as economical as possible while we move around the globe. That means trying to find the cheapest way across a country. The bus to SW France felt like a red-eye flight but, we recovered soon enough. 

House sitting also provides us with a place to be a family while we also ‘live’ for a bit. Yes, there are chores, meal plans, and world schooling schedules. We have noticed that we have incorporated more movies than we would have at ‘home’ in Portland, Oregon as we have different time schedules. We often bring in location compatible movies. So, you can bet your baguette we had a rousing viewing of Les Miserables.

Many stories to share and these are some of our recent tid bits.

We discovered several things on our trip to France. Rural France. Sounds so romantic, right? Yes, some of it and some is hard. Here are about 10 of our discoveries. Not a complete list of course.

  1. You can get baguette in a vending machine easier than you can get soda. I was completely mesmerized by the convenience, cleverness and cheekiness of vending machines in the French countryside that sold baguette. It was funny, as sometimes you might find competing companies with machines within several hundred yards of each other but, then none for many, many miles.
  1. In all our travels around the world, France was the place lest likely to find someone who spoke English. Or was at least willing to speak English with us. We would ask (in French) if they spoke English and they all, every single one, said ‘no’. They could a little but, didn’t want to be thought of as having a good command of the language or so we think. 
  1. Not speaking English-made this part of our entire trip the most lonely. I am not wanting you to feel sorry for us, I get it. We were in South Western France and it was magical and lovely but, when you can’t even talk to the cashiers, bakery attendants, market folks…anyone, you tend to feel rather lonely. More of a reason to learn French! We were there for more than three weeks with just the four of us for company. We really enjoyed our hosts (English retirees) when they returned.
  1. We were in the countryside when all things were budding and blooming. A very magical time to bear witness to the wonders that effected all the senses and even some allergies. We found new ways to pantomime allergies in the local pharmacies. Also, thank goodness for Google Translate!
  1. We learned a lot about French Kings, Crusades, Roman invasions, Charlemagne, conflicts with the English. I’ve been reading a great book called 1000 Years of the English Annoying the French by Stephen Clarke which has helped us gain some perspective on this nations’s rich history and with a lot of humor.
  1. France still follows the scheduling plan of most stores closing for lunch, from about 12-2:30pm and most restaurants only being open from about 12-2pm. If you want to do one of those activities outside of those official time frames. Too bad!!
  1. Paris is a beautiful city and what the world mostly thinks of when one thinks of France, however, most resident people we met have either never been there or have only been once or twice. There are many rich and thriving cultural experiences outside of the capital. 
  1. Pastries and baked goods have their own food group in France. Not only in sumptuous flavors but, with artistry befitting an exhibition. 
  1. We celebrated the double blue moon in France. When we have two blue moons in one calendar year. Blue moon is when there are two full moons in one calendar month. This happens about three to four times a century. We howled with the best of them. Our previous full moons? Thailand, Cambodia, Denmark and now France. 
  1. Cognac is a kind of brandy made from grapes distilled in barrels like whiskey. Cognac is only made in specific regions in France, specifically Charente and Charente-Maritime. 

We have more to say about France but, wanted to share these gems. More to come about the specifics of house sitting many chickens, sneaky cats and a lovable dog named Zara in a 200-year-old farm-house. 

Meanwhile, thanks for reading. 

One of the bedrooms in our 200-year-old house.

The La Trappe Tree we watched blossom during our stay.

Last day at our tree.

Chicken Donuts!!

 

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Danish Hygge and What We Learned in Being Calm and Cozy

When we arrived in Denmark for our three-week plus house and pet sit, we were a bit more worn out than we had imagined. The farm was the home to a couple who taught us a lot about Danish Hygge. One who worked part-time as a butcher and the other a foot and physical therapy (not to be mixed!). Their farm-house was nearly 140 years old, had two floors and easily six bedrooms. Wonderous views from each direction through windows and skylights showed us the ever-changing sky. 

Our charges were one cat named Merlot who brought gifts of hard-fought birds and mice and a three-year old fluffy, playful Irish Terrier named Rusty who exhibited the habits of the cutest cartoon dog you could imagine. 

Additionally, we cared for over a dozen chickens including five roosters, three of which became dinner…more on that later. 

When we landed after a literal round the globe journey lasting five days I fell ill with the Danish flu. Or at least the flu that I heard was running around Europe and the rest of the Western world.

For the next two weeks I struggled with fevers, malaise as well as a heavy chest cold. Of all the places to fall ill, this warm home proved to be very soothing recovery haven indeed. I was exceedingly grateful for this space.  I went to a Danish Doctor to see what I should do to help feel better. I asked for something akin to Nyquil. This may have been the first time in my life I wanted Nyquil. He looked up it up online and said the Danes don’t have anything like that but, recommended that I go drink tea, rest and watch Netflix. The modern Hygge.

After months of being in tropical weather and convinced we would not have a ‘regular’ winter we were treated to several winter storms, snow flurries and downright blizzards. We were overjoyed to make snowmen, slide on some ice and have snowball fights. I was more an observer but, we all very much enjoyed it. 

The kitchen we were occupying had all the supplies one (mainly my husband) would need to create sumptuous home cooked meals. Kelvin was in his element as he made stews, soups, roast chickens, cassoulets, braised meats and salads all washed down with hearty wines and cold, clear water.

We consumed cup after cup of coffee or tea several times a day and often pared them with Danish baked goods found in neighboring villages. We had farm fresh eggs (up to 12 a day!) as well as dark, thick bread that after toasted only needed a smear of butter to become a slice of heaven. 

I now know why Danes are known for their baked goods. The danishes we have in the States are a very poor representation of what the Danes actually make. When we made our way into the nearby town of Svendborg we inevitably visited Brod – A Danish Baking Studio which quickly became our new haunt.

Kelvin make plans with Ib (our host) to ‘take care of’ three chickens that were harassing many of the hens in the pen. He made a list to prepare for the slaughter and to process the meat.

I found this list and had to double take as Kelvin had forgotten the ‘e’ on humane as I read his list that looked like a serial killer prep list. Maybe too many Law and Order episodes from my past? In any case, the whole event was another life skill world school moment for the boys. 

We had been away from a fully supplied kitchen and we relished in having the ability to make breakfast, lunch and dinner on site, warm ourselves by the fireside while wearing the handmade wooly socks made by our host. Can you say Hygge? Ib and Ann offered up all their coats, boots, gloves, hats, scarves (even a Gryffindor one much to Oakley’s delight) and overalls as well as their car to supply us with the tools to journey around the property and the Island of Fyn. 

We did make a couple of excursions to round out our Danish experience. We had whimsical world school day in Odense, the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen and followed big red foot prints on the cobble stones to trace his roots around town. All while enjoying street art, warm drinks and Hans skill as a paper cut out artist.

The Princess and the Pea Bed

The boys were also invited to talk to a local school. We visited a class of 8-10 year olds as they were learning English. Canyon was very brave and presented at the beginning of class and conducted questions in his forward fashion. We continued to experience a humble awareness of the language aptitude of the Danes. Most people already knowing more than two languages by the age of 10 years old. 

No visit to Denmark would be complete without involvement in a Lego activity. We went to the Lego House in Billund for a day of Lego. Billund is the birthplace of Lego. I was undoubtedly surprised to be so entertained. I knew the boys would be, however, I was childlike as I went room to room to see the interactive activities set up around Lego pieces. My favorite was a live Sim City-like interactive play of making a city. I had to work that evening so we regretfully had to leave before we were all ready to go. 

In the mainstream media, there has been a liberal use of the term Hygge. Admittedly, I did not know about this term until I arrived but, a friend commented on our experience and said it looked very Hygge. It is hard to translate into English as we don’t have an exact equivalent. 

I found this New Yorker article  Hygge – A form of Cozy which helped inform my experience. We found this word to be a true representation of our experience.

We found our experiences steeped in warm, cozy, pleasant surroundings and, at times, lit in a low-light glow all while enjoying simple pleasures such as a tasty cup of coffee while watching the snow fall from a fire warmed room. I dug into crosswords, some books, cozy blankets and sweet Danish bread after walking Rusty in the brisk, clean air. It did feel like a calming elixir. 

Our experience with the Danes as a people was also warming. They won’t walk up to you to introduce themselves in grocery store, however, once introduced they proved to be some of the warmest, friendliest people I’ve ever met.

The daughter of our host, Line, brought food and family over for an afternoon of Hygglick activities including cuddling the pets and playing chess all while eating homemade Brunsviger, a kind of celebratory brown sugar bread, liver paste, cheese, chocolate for bread slices and endless cups of tea and coffee.

Line also provided Kelvin and I with our first night and honestly, our first several hour stretch while awake as she took care of the boys and sent us off on a night alone (gasp!) in a nearby hotel. The first time in 200 days which we had a night of sleep and a hot meal without the kids with us. We barely knew what to do but, found ourselves happily experiencing Hygge with some tasty beer and snacks at a pub and a super snooze in a cozy bed.

Our hosts came back and we stayed on for a few days to celebrate Kelvin’s birthday with them. Some alcohol was consumed and we only had to totter upstairs and curl up in extra fluffy duvets. They were kind, generous and very pleasant.

So, we wrapped up our time in Denmark a bit heavier around the waist but, happily rested and well connected with our new friends as we left feeling like family. 

Line and various drinks for a Danish dinner party.

Rusty and very cold boys at the Cold War Museum

Winter!

Street Art and Oakley in Odense

How to choose a flavor of a lollypop?

Hans Christian Anderson

My Lego House Photo

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Thailand Holiday Rest and Recuperation

Sol: 134

We have been in Thailand for over three weeks. It’s a bit of a struggle these last days as its been hard travels in a way. Now, I am not complaining as I do know that what we are doing is amazing and I am incredibly grateful that we have been able to make this happen.

However, when you do something, even something amazing, after awhile it can lose a bit of it’s shine. This blog is all about the honesty of our travel and experiences. Today, I’m writing a bit about that.

The struggle really started in Vietnam. I really feel in love that country, however, it was hard travels at times. I had been struggling with some physical ailments (back pain, sleep issues, digestive challenges) Then I got pretty ill. Headache, fever, chills, throat pain. You know that feeling that you’ve swallowed broken glass? I was there. I was going through Ricolas like cigarettes for a heavy smoker.

We had to travel to Thailand as our Vietnamese visa was expiring and we had plane tickets. It is relatively easy and cheap to buy airline tickets in SE Asia but, they are also non-refundable and changeable if you buy them as cheaply as we had been. Then if you have four tickets, it is a larger cost. So, to Thailand we came.

We landed in Bangkok. Nothing like a city of over 8 million, humidity, a smaller hostel room for four to emphasize your discomfort. For our entire time in Bangkok’s Chinatown (where our hostel was) I saw the inside of a hospital (twice) and a 7/11 (they are everywhere in SE Asia) to get supplies.

Oakley came down with my flu and bronchitis a couple of days after arrival. Canyon and Kelvin running errands to arrange food and supplies and holding their breath when near to avoid our plague.

We came to Pattaya for our house sit which has positively saved us. I gotta throw out the biggest kudos to   Trusted Housesitters again as they have made this trip possible for us. We are taking care of the sweetest, mellowest dog I’ve ever met all while staying in a home, a real home with a big kitchen (great for chef husband) and two big bedrooms, living spaces and the added bonus of a swimming pool. Really, really luxorious and grounding.

And when we slow down other things often catch up to us. I have found that I am feeling a bit lonely and depressed as of late. The holidays are always a hard time for plenty of folks. For me this is no exception.

We are in a beautiful place in warm weather. The dream of many folks, especially with all those winter storms happening in the States at the moment. Yet, I am feeling a bit rudderless. I think this is the longest place we have stayed in the last 4+ months of travel.

I was really worried about making it a wondrous and memorable Holiday for the boys. Knowing they would be missing so many traditions and experiences. I think we pulled it off as we were able to find strands of Twinkly lights to put up where we were, found a Star Wars Lego Advent calendar which can do wonders for little boys psyches. We even found a 5 ft plastic tree for $10. A bargain!

Seeing the Christmas celebrations here in Asia is different as it is a lot about the decorations in public. The holiday trees, lights, reindeer and sometimes Santa but, rarely him. Also, I haven’t seen any nativity scenes anywhere.

We did manage to find the coldest place we could on Christmas Eve. Frost Magical Ice of Siam which consists of sand sculptures on the outside and a glorified meat locker on the inside. You walk and slide among ice sculptures. You even get an ice drink made from ice and get to gleefully throw it against an ice wall as you depart. How very satisfying!

The most entertaining part of that visit was watching locals shiver through the place in about a minute. We spent about 25 minutes inside (they have a requisite three minute acclimation period going in and out of each side). Many people spent more time in the acclimation room than in the actual ice room.

I am currently on a two day trip on my own. It is a little reprieve for my soul to have a bit of totally me time. You may not realize how much time you spend away from your family when people are going to work, school, playdates, babysitters, shopping or trips around the neighborhood.

It is completely different when you cannot leave your kids by themselves. Kelvin and I haven’t had awake time  alone in months, especially in daylight. I am enjoying not thinking about when we eat next, what to do next, thinking about how everyone might react to the next choice.

I am carefree for a couple days and loving the solitude. I’ll be be back soon and then we send Kelvin out for three days/two nights on a fishing trip. He too needs his recharge time. These are the Christmas presents we gave each other.

And so, now we are appreciating our place, our temporary home before we embark into the new year and the next travel adventures. Thanks for reading and stay tuned!

Happy Holidays! Happy 2018 or 2561 if you are following the Thailand calendar.

Check out the 31-12-61 reference. The Thai Calendar.

My favorite isle in the specialty store we found. So many kinds of fizzy water.

Wine from Oregon costing a princely price.

We got a flat tire and people showed up to help and really weren’t gonna let us fix it. Very, very kind. It takes a village and then there is Canyon reading his kindle in the background.

 

Would you like some meat for dinner?

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Camper Van Beethoven up the East Coast

Sol 29 – Starting our fifth week. The last 10 days have been filled with vast views outside and some tight living quarters inside. After our first pet sit we ambled into the world in a camper van affectionately named ‘Beethoven’. Any lover of indie rock from the 90s might know what I am taking about.

We drove up the East Coast and boy, it is a BIG country. This seem longer because it is written in kilometers but, also they list cities that are 1700 kilometers away! It makes you feel that you are really on the long haul. Then there are the serious but, somehow seemly cute signs warning you of Kangaroos and Koala bear crossings.

We spent a lot of time checking out different beach fronts and finding the magic of Rainbow Beach where the colors of the sands are a painters dream. So many hues.

We camped at 1770 Holiday Park, in 1770, the town with the historical significance of  the only town to be named a number and after when Captain Cook landed in….you guessed it 1770.

Then to Hervey Bay where the tide rolls in and out for 100s of yards (or meters!) and the sea life is majestic. We stayed at a place called Scarness which Kelvin kept saying was ‘scariness’ which made us giggle as it would be an odd name for such a beautiful place.

We made some great connections in the holiday parks and the boys made some friends learning some ‘footie’ i.e. rugby, a smattering of cricket and taking part in delightful discussions of favorite candy bars and breakfast foods while swimming and diving for Australian coins. We were kindly and generously served Australian wines and given some great insights of places to go and very kind inquiries of our travels. Thanks Fiona and Tony!!

Oakley seems to be having the toughest transition. Every time we have ‘world school’ he melts as if he’s lost his bone structure into a small puddle. He has some sniffles about missing his friends. We soothe with Legos, familiar songs and hugs but, it is hard for him at times. It is hard to see him sad and we work to help.

Canyon seems to be a bit more resilient but, is up and down lately especially the closer we get to his 10th birthday (on the 24th) which he is simultaneously excited for and worried that no one will remember.

Since we are on a pretty tight budget we have to be really thoughtful about where we spend our money especially when it comes to experiences. We decided we needed to have some experience out on the water since we were at the Southern end of the Great Barrier Reef and when would that happen again? Also, we so wanted to go to Fraser Island but, it was just too cost prohibitive for us.

But, we did find a gem in our experience on the Pacific Whale Foundation . They are not profit putting their earnings back into research which they were conducting while we where onboard. We saw an amazing array of whales, mommas, escorts and babies, who seemed to be just flirting with our boat all afternoon doing all the activity described on the phamplet.  Even our guides seemed to be impressed with the activity.

We also saw jumping tuna (our cat back home would have been out of her mind!) and sea turtles. The captain even took us close to Fraser Island to see white sand coast line and search for dingo sightings.

We have been frequenting the grocery stores to plan our meals. I think we have only eaten out as family three times since arriving in Australia. One was a fish and chips delight, another a pub dinner that was okay and another the first day at the shopping center food court in our jet lagging weariness.

Being married to a chef has its perks. We did take advantage of one of the countless free BBQs all over in nearly every park. It is such a great idea to be able to cook up whatever you want nearly wherever. We have seen people laying out high teas complete with champagne and several tiered cake trays, hot plates with kettles and a ‘civilized’ spread that would challenge most high-end dinners out. These folks know how to enjoy the out-of-doors!

We start our second pet sit with three dogs in North Brisbane while completing our second stay with the kitties near the Gold Coast. It was a sight for sore eyes to have hot water, wifi, a couch and rooms that one could shut by themselves and be alone for at least a bit. Again, loving our connection with Trusted Housesitters.

Keep tuned as we head into the last third of our time in Australia and prepare for Bali. We hope to create a birthday to remember for Canyon. He’ll be a decade old!

Kelvin bravely feeding the Lorakeets in Forest Glen

Boys playing dream chess ala Harry Potter?

Our humble home in the woods.

Room with view at Hervey Bay

Boys enjoying the sunset at 1770

Actually finding a Koala in a tree on the side of the road.

Dinner time at Rainbow Beach!

The introverts in the quiet carriage in Brisbane.

Cosy sleeping arrangements or claustrophobic. You decide.

Sunrise at Rainbow Beach

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