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Our Journey – Five Countries in Five Days

Sol: 180 by the time we landed in the fifth country.

We travelled through five countries in five days. Like many a parenting moments I’ve had over the last eight months, I never thought I’d say that statement.

This is a log of our adventure inlike I thought we’d ever take. We travelled through five countries in five days. These are our adventures. I document the countries visited, modes of transportation taken, jet lag experienced, sustainance obtained and currencies used. I start on day one of movement on our journey and continues through six days.

IMG_3062.jpgDay One, Tuesday: We woke up in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. IMG_3060.jpgWe had been staying at a nicer hotel as we had been traveling hard for a while. We decided to let ourselves stay in a place a bit nicer than our normal choices. Meaning, we had predictable hot water and the beds were blessedly soft and fluffed with clean duvets. We had some more room and there were not as many unpredictable bugs visiting us.

We had a late check out and lounged around outside on the warm grass and I read Harry Potter The Goblet of Fire aloud to the boys as we drank in the warm sunshine, not really fullsizeoutput_c5a8knowing it would be nearly the last of our tropical weather. fullsizeoutput_c58dWe got a ride in a van to the bus terminal which doubled as a cafe’ on the side of the road. Our bus was leaving from Sihanoukville at 8:30pm. The sun was down as we climbed onboard our overnight bus to Siem Reap.

Our bus, called the Giant Ibis, was actually very comfortable as we were able to lay down in little slots the size of a full bed. The bus had a toilet, plugs for electronics, a bottle of water for each of us and WiFi. fullsizeoutput_c5aaFor about $25 a person it was not a bad way to travel North through Cambodia in the dead of night.

Day Two, Wednesday: We arrived in Siem Reap, Cambodia around 6am passing the ghostly outlines of Angkor Wat near the bus station. As the fog lifted we sorted a Tuk Tuk to the next bus station and we met our friend from our earlier stay in Siem Reap.IMG_3115

At this bus station Kelvin sought out a cup of coffee, an a pile of bananas for less than a dollar on that dusty road. We stayed in the station which was likley someone’s house in the not too distant past waiting for the bus to be ready for departure as the staff washed themselves in the station bathroom.

IMG_3110We departed at 8:30am for Bangkok, Thailand. This bus goes through the notorious Poi Pot border crossing from Cambodia into Thailand. The border crossing is a bit easier this way as we didn’t have to get a visa before going through passport control. However, it is still an assault on the senses and having sensory sensitive kids it was especially so.KLZZpSxjT0KftXO142EgsQ.jpg

Oakley does not do well with struggles of being too close to people he does not know, things being too loud, too odorous, too touchy and people really wanting to know more about him and us.

kZOiEtVOSuakF5zI8jLR5A.jpgIt was hard, sweaty and dusty but, we did it. Each stop from passport control to the next is outside in the city along camps of people with outstretched hands offering or asking us many things.

In the end, we adjusted through to the border to Thailand. cqA8tqRNK9Xjmixw99w.jpgWe dug out our the Thai Baht we had saved and bought fresh snacks. We were coming in on 19 hours of travel. The bus driver dropped us not far from the hotel we booked in Bangkok near the airport.

We tried to get an Uber ride but, it is illegal in Thailand so struggled with some of the limitiations. We eventually found a ride in the complimentarly hotel van we didn’t know was an option.

We arrived at the hotel at around 5pm. We took hot showers and some of us a hot soak as we had a bathtub! A luxury! We dropped to sleep after getting some food sent in from the hotel after Kelvin wandered around the neighborhood for a 7/11, the best place for supplies.

imageDay Three, Thursday: A rest day in Thailand. A good friend from back home Grace came to hang out with us for the afternoon. IMG_3137This is after Kelvin ended up cooking our eggs and breakfast for us at the restaurant as they were, seemingly, short on staff.

Grace is a Vietnamese American who has her incredible own story of how she came to the US as a five-year old via a refugee camp on a boat in the dark of night. Her story is not mine to tell but, she taught us a lot in our afternoon together. She was also the first person we knew that we have seen in months.

BJAEdHPXTT66DOwk9X4THgIt was the start of the Lunar New Year so many fireworks exploded through the night as we tried to sleep.fullsizeoutput_c599

Day Four, Friday: We woke EARLY at 4am to get to the Suvarnabhumi airport in Bangkok, Thailand. This was going to be the big push day. After spending the last of our baht on over priced coffees, we lined up for security at our gate.

fullsizeoutput_c592We flew from Bangkok, Thailand to Abu Dhabi, in the United Arab Emirates in seven hours on Etihad Airlines.Video from Airline Cameras

I count the United Arab Emirates which may be a stretch but, we were there! The desert stretching out to the end of the sea as we watched from the airplane cameras. IMG_3182

The airport had a few snack options, a chance to sit on a bronze camel and a long security check on every single electronic item we possessed. fullsizeoutput_c59dAll wiped down with tissues seeking nafarious substances. We had a short layover and then took off for London. Another seven hours in the air.

It was a truly round the world experience watching the map on the plane plot our course though time and space. I felt I should tune into Stephen Hawking a bit more.fullsizeoutput_c597

Video from Airplane cameras

The plane has these amazing cameras that show live footage from the bottom, the tail and front of the plane. An other worldly experience that had us marveling at how one to can go so far in such a span of time.

fB5luFVZSEmzBnKjqRqHOgOur plane held 496 passengers and 22 staff. Our row was ten seats across with two aisles and was a double-decker with a staircase and business class in what I read were actual beds. When we landed it felt like a barely a bump.wWGWiS00QueeZLgDLcIO8g

We landed in London, England. Scrambled for food, sim cards and British pounds. We took an Uber to our friend’s house and had the sticker shock of being back in one of the most expensive counties.

H8ZffcE7RduwaljTQ+sXUwOur ride from the airport cost more than seven days of accommodation in Cambodia. Jet lagged and chilly we counted the hours we were awake (24) and fell into the comfy and clean beds of our friends house was we were nuzzled by their two kitties.

Day Five, Saturday: We rested in London, England as we adapted to the time change as well as the weather. We were ill-equipped for the chilly winds blowing through the city although, we were delighted for a change.

We ended up going out for breakfast which was tasty yet, a shocking zap to our budget. We then wandered through charity shops looking for long pants, fleeces, gloves and other adjustments to our wardrobe.L8q9fm9ER96F7E06ME5oow

I took the Tube across town to have lunch with some friends while the boys played Legos with our friend’s collection. We had to have a traditional fish and chips for dinner while continuing to adjust our heads and sleep schedules.

g6TmxHQSRoCZIDBd6ULHXgDay Six, Saturday: We woke up before the sun to gather our belongs one more time and shuttled off to Luton Airport. We had an interesting ride through the fog gazing out at the hills reaching for green as we wheeled past.

At Luton, it was another exercise in airport check-ins as we eyed the automatic weapons of the police staff that patrolled the walkways.LFY+CKH4RgicDqsycKC%AQ

Wandering stores after check in, we bought sandwiches, trashy newspapers, chocolate, coffees and bags of crisps for our trip. Completly enjoying having options in English for the first time five months.

QGUg2pcSRySdcpa1hPp0GwAfter boarding a Ryan Jet flight by trudging up the stairs in the icy wind from the tarmac we bid goodbye to Britain for a while. We winged our way to Copenhagen, Denmark. We found our way to the train connections to bring us to the Danish village we were going to  stay.8Vw6zrHdSL+V%twT7wTbiA

We sorted the change in platforms after witnessing someone lingering too long as the efficient Danish train door closed exactly when it said it would on a passenger’s leg effectively shutting down the entire train for a while as emergency workers came to extract the passenger from their painful fate.

Z8wCr1yHR5S4Xoi791eycwWincing, we found our alternative train and trundled towards our destiny on the Island of Fyn to the town to Nyborg where our host was patiently waiting for us as we disembarked some nearly two hours later.

After nearly six months on the road and five months since we stayed with people that we knew beforehand, we were welcomed into the warm embrace of our Danish hosts in the village of Vestrup. We were truely treated like family.zKhzBzGdRlaj3iLUSwdROA

The evening felt like a homecoming even though none of us had met before. A large welcoming meal and several glasses of wine later I snuggled in an extra cozy duvet surrounded by our boys on the second floor of this 140 year old farm-house. It was lovely, calming and blissfully welcoming.

IMG_3308What followed was an amazing Danish farm experience. That will be documented on my next post.

As I drifted off, I could scarcely believe that we had, indeed, touched soil in six countries in six days ending up in another place to practice our round the world journey and world schooling for the boys.

As always, thanks for reading. Please share if you like!

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Cambodia, Land of Smiles, Dusty Lanes and Authentic Connections.

Cambodia faces. I keep thinking about the people of Cambodia. Visiting the country was a deeply intense experience. IMG_2024.jpgThe people, the landscape, the resources and the kindness.

Our experience was intense because it was at the end part of our South East Asian time and we were starting to feel a bit weary on the road. We had been in Asia for nearly four months. We had battled some illnesses, sorted our daily plans and generally negotiated most of our purchases. fullsizeoutput_c4c7I read once that you shouldn’t go to the hardest place of travel at the end of your journey because you’ll be too tired. Well, we didn’t know how tired we had become.

When we traveled for 27 hours on an overnight train from Northern Thailand and then a long border crossing day bus into Cambodia we discoved that we were a bit fatigued.

Kelvin was very sick and it was just about the hardest thing to do for him to be bounced around for hours on the road. We proped him with bottles of water and a promise of a clean, soft bed in the near future. IMG_1931.jpg

The border crossing was hard. Really hard for our youngest boy Oakley.  Poi Pot is a notorious border town and it knows it. When you cross the border from Thailand you have to go through three check points. Leaving Thailand, getting the visa for Cambodia and finally, passport control into Cambodia.

In between these stops one has to walk through what can only be described as throngs of people vying for your attention, your cash and your business. IMG_2006There are also beggars, ogglers and whatever you-havers. It can be pretty intense, especially if you are just over four feet tall and don’t look like a local.

The other factor of intensity has to do with how much poverty we experienced. This is a country that was at war not that long ago. There has been a lot of recovery but, there is still a lot to happen to convey IMG_1951.jpgconsistency and stability.

We noticed that there are not the local systems set for gathering rubbish, consistent power and even noise ordinances. We can handle this but, it does feel rather tense when you combine all three, especially after a number of days.

Our first stay was at a farm outside Siem Reap and it was beautiful. It was also a journey to get there by tuk tuk. A bounce on bumpy dirt roads avoiding IMG_2103.jpgchickens, cows, roadside fires and potholes. An adventure in the journey.

From time to time, someone might blast out some music for a bit. It plays as your background music. On our last couple days at the farm there was a celebration at the neighbors. They started the music around 5:30am. For the next 12 hours, they continued to play the music so loudly that we had to stay in our room or wear ear plugs.

It was distorted over a speaker and was very intense. Our hosts said, it was a celebration for ‘old people’. I hope I get celebrated like that when I am old!IMG_1943

We were impressed by Angor Wat which is more than 17 miles around the perimeter of the main area. Maybe the words are ‘blown away’. I never realized how incredibly huge these ancient yet, active temples are. It was truly an awesome experience in every sense of the word.

fullsizeoutput_c372We rode an overnight bus to Sihanoukville to stay in a place run by Russian women who have picked up and started over in Cambodia. It was clean and comfortable but, there was the undercurrent of the sex trade there. Women around for the ‘weekend girlfriend experience’ with Chinese and Indian businessmen.

Paying attention to the talk and transactions it was apparent fullsizeoutput_c4fband it was a bit depressing. These men were on a business trip having the ‘bonus’ of the company of local women. It is hard to wrestle with as I can only imagine this transaction might benefit their family but, it was hard to blithely witness.

fullsizeoutput_c4eaThe Cambodian coast is full of people trying to make a living. Wanting to fulfill your every need. Do you need your nails trimmed? Do you need your legs shaved? Do you need a snack? Do you need a drink? Do you need a new wrap for the sun? Any of these issues or perhaps something you had no idea you were in need of. It is hard to say no but, also hard if you say yes as all others will think you are game for trade.

We then traveled to a nearby island. Our boat left from the Royal Pier. fullsizeoutput_c4c4While waiting for our boat we saw the most basic toilet and an ice man the likes of Hans from Frozen loading ice blocks for the food establishments tourists would frequent. On our island that has no roads only scooters, wagons or good ol’ elbow grease carry your bags, supplies and goods.

fullsizeoutput_c486Our experience was on the Island of Koh Rong. We stayed in a bungalow on a beach. You could walk to a nearby village but, the beaches were cleanest at our place where locals would comb the sand twice a day to pick up stray litter that washed ashore. I became even more aware of how important it is to recycle in our everyday life as plastics showed up on the hour. It is hard to imagine what an impact we might have on the environment when you are picking through plastic pieces while walking into the water.IMG_2897-1.jpg

The most magical experience was going out on a fishing boat to fish with tin cans and fishing twine and drinking beer while the sun is setting. Then speeding toward the starry darkness in the early night to nearly pitch black spot and encouraged to jump off the end of that boat into the inky, warm waters. The second you apprehensively splash into the water you see sparks that rival any telling of Peter Pan you have experienced in your lifetime.

fullsizeoutput_c488Small sparks of light explode around your fingers and they comb through the warm water. It is magic. It is mind-blowing. Activation of phosphorus plankton is the scientific explanation but, I still call it magic. Because the secondary light is so minimal it is stunning. This close to the equator the sun sets so quickly too. You are in darkness in less time than it takes to drain a local can of beer.

These sparks of beauty are quite possibility one of the most amazing, organic experiences I have ever had in my life. It is like creating magic with your limbs as they comb through the warm waters.IMG_2828.jpg

Our youngest son Oakley was not a fan of not being able to see or hear us except for the gasps of amazement. He was unsure of our safety (it was fine) and our whereabouts, off in the dark waters off the end of a wooden fishing boat. I tried very hard to imprint that experience in my mind. It as truly magical. One of the top experiences in my life.

IMG_2844.jpgThe rest of the days on the island were restful yet, imprinted with the awareness that so many locals nearby were living on so little. It is an odd equation. Do you help by being a tourist?

We returned to Sihanoukville and spent four days soaking up the hospitality of a clean, comfortable hotel. Ending our time in South East Asia taught me that I am a creature that seeks comfort of what many westerners seek. Continuity of accessibility of water, cleanliness fullsizeoutput_c590and comfort. I had a topsy belly for many a day and it wasn’t until our trip around to Western Europe that I settled again.

We took another 24 hours to take two long buses back to Bangkok to prepare for the long journey to Western Europe. That is the subject of another story. Six countries in six days but, for now I give gratitude.

IMG_2859I am incredibly grateful for this amazing experience. I am so curious to see what our boys will recall from these colorful, intense, filled days and nights.

I thank Cambodia for its friendliness, authentic willingness to support and care for its visitors and for all their resilience to the cost of war. The echos of which still can be heard as we wandered these dusty, beautiful lanes. Thank you Cambodia.

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How one buys petrol for your scooter or car.

 

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Getting laundry back.

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Someone offering to take care of all your needs. Even the ones you didn’t know you had!

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A man and his chicken.

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The neighbor kids over to play at the farm in Siem Reap.

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My ‘office’ on a work day.

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A monk on a stroll and part of Angkor Wat

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There is little use of helmets here.

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One of the many temples in Angkor Wat

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