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Norway – Fjords and Fantastic Friends

IMG_6462I am back ‘home’ in Portland but, still my soul is floating around the earth. We have returned to our hometown and are putting down roots again….phone contracts, bought a used car, set up utility accounts and kids are now at Montessori but, we aren’t done with this journey or the next steps.IMG_6489

I write now to continue to document our adventures for posterity and for the boys. We will be processing all this for many a moon to come and with that, comes new decisions and directions. Although, I can’t say that too loudly near our youngest son or he will run screaming from the room….just kidding. IMG_6511

So, Norway….we have some stories to tell. This was not on our big list when we made the ‘dream list’ at the beginning of the travel plans but, it came about and I am so glad that it did.

I do have two friends from my Leiden University studying days in the 90s that live in IMG_6550Oslo and they both offered advice, homes, meals and warm welcomes to our travel queries. 

Also, my mother in law’s grandfather left Norway to find his way to this land as an immigrant in the late 1800s and thus we had a some family lineage to find and follow. IMG_6672

When we announced that we would be going on this trip my mother in law was not keen on being away from her grandkids for a year so, we said, ‘Come join us somewhere!’ 

And so, they did. Being recently retired folks from Idaho they started at square one to get passports for the first time and they entrusted me to plan their path. IMG_6626

For us, it was a luxury to be around family, familiar and warm faces with loads of hugs but, also an opportunity to share in this family finding journey. 

IMG_6705My Norwegian friends offered to do a little genealogy research for us and when she presented us with an 80 page document before we arrived of all she found we were blown away. 

This kindness and curiosity in our background was a priceless gift. We used this information to pin point places to visit. IMG_1476

Kelvin ,the boys and I arrived in Oslo before the in-laws in to the welcoming embrace of Marianne and Tore. Marianne and I studied together and had been in touch over the years but, it was the first time we had seen each other in over 18 years. 

IMG_6662She had recently opted to not run for reelection to the Norwegian parliament but, gave us intimate access to the Parliament and a tour I am sure you could not ‘book’ anywhere else. IMG_7086

It was like seeing an old friend as we picked up where we had left off last time. Talking about our kids (she has three) and her new work she showed us what it is like to be a working mom and professional. IMG_7173 2

My other friend Brita and her partner Eva (she’s the one that did the genealogy research for us without having even met us) also joined us on walks throughout Oslo to the Resistance Museum and drinks along the waterfront among other places. 

IMG_7200All while high school equivalent students were running around the city in their flight suits and tricked out buses celebrating their transition to adulthood. Its called Russebuss and it is a fascinating tradition. IMG_6844

Russe Buses in Oslo

I’am going to write more about this and the Norwegian Constitutional Day which deserve their own billing. 

IMG_6761 2So, anyway…..family history found us driving (well Kelvin driving, really. We just all cheered him on from the back seat) for what seemed like 100s of miles and hours and hours.IMG_6996

This was not a problem as the beauty of Norway is endless. Even when you go through kilometers long tunnels through their mountains and pop out into a landscape worthy of the best visual calendar you could ever pin up on your wall. IMG_7164 2

The glaciers (wow), the goats (oh, my), the lambs (have to mention the for Oakley as he pointed out every one of the 10,000 we saw along the way, the fjords (unbeliveable), the moose (meese?, what is the plural for that), the eye watering bright skies with stunning panoramic views as you just look up from your google map EVERY, IMG_7110SINGLE TIME!. 

In Utvick, I think we stayed in one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to when including the view outside and the chick decorations inside.IMG_7078

I felt like we were in a magazine spread but, did not need a fresher of make up. The sun would barely set and the glow would hover on the horizon in the wee hours of the night. IMG_6830

We chased down family graveyards, enjoyed several of the many ferries, and just watched the nature around us. Stunning and beautiful. Have I gotten the point across?

IMG_6888You will love it if you go and do get out of Oslo, lovely city yet, there is so much to this enormous by European standards country. 

If you do, hug a lamb for Oakley because he couldn’t get across the stoic momma ewe. As much as we tried. 

Goat Rush Hour Video – Check it out!

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World School Room

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Goat Rush Hour

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Paradise Airbnb

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The Fjord

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Not even Mid Summer and loooong daylight

 

 

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Dutch Treat as we Tip Toed Through the Tulips

Tulips in bloom!

Kings Day celebrations

The time in the Netherlands was exhilerating for me. I was following a dream to bring my kids to the Netherlands to show them the places that have touched my heart. These are places that make my heart squeeze with ache when I think of them. These are places I have lived, walked, biked, worked, studied and loved in.

My life long relationship with the Netherlands started when I was barely a 20 year old coming to study here in a program for my year abroad back in 1989. I lived in Groningen, Tilburg and Leiden. 

In the intervening 28 years I have found myself trying to find ways to come back again and again. I studied here for two years total and ended up living and working here back in 2000-2001 then came back to the States to be with my terminally ill mother. 

My former flat with lovely round windows.

I have visited for short periods here and there and have many lovely friends and connections that are Dutch or I met them in the Netherlands.

Dear Mette on a Gezellig evening

So coming back to the NL this time had a lot of importance for me and I tried to make is so I didn’t put too much pressure on my children to fall in love with this beautiful, unique country. But, it was hard, really, really hard not to.

We stayed for a week with a friend and his family across the river Ij in Amsterdam.  I had met this friend my first few days here back in 1989. Berend met us at the station and swept us up into his arms (he is a big guy!) and welcomed us into his family. 

The Kings Day celebrations were happening while we were there. This includes celebrations of street fairs, music, food and drink but, it also has what could possibly be the worlds largest swap market/yard sale.

These Dutch lads really drink their milk. Elianto is 16 year old!

All Dutch people bring out their wares that they are wishing to get rid of while perusing the offerings of their neighbors. It might be that some are just swapping goods each year. In any case, there are rows and rows of things carefully laid out on blankets on the cobblestone streets. If you wished you could furnish a whole house on this day!

It was our first real plunge into visual arts as we walked the halls of the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh museum. On this trip, we have been careful to avoid overloading our kids with too many museums so they don’t blend into a dreaded, unwanted march through ‘old things’.

My favorite cafe from the last three decades.

Taking our time with these places and using the provided children’s scavenger hunt book by the museum made our excursions rather interesting and delightful. 

We also found our way to the Anne Frank House which is a must for any trip to Amsterdam and a powerful example and reminder of the costs of war and conflict. When we hear bells anywhere now Canyon says he thinks of Anne when she heard the nearby bells of Westerkerk (Church) from her hiding place.

I’m wondering what the boys will take away from these travels. We are exploring so many treasured places but, they are also cherished by me. Sometimes the impact is big and others times it’s mild. 

Ulrika and her masterpieces!

My hope is that years from now they will remember some of these walks, talks and forays into history and pull out a nugget they want to unpack a bit more. I have found that I have so much I want to write about and will continue to unpack this trip myself – through writing here and such. 

Our time in the Netherland was punctuated with interactions with friends and their families and those experiences warm my heart. We spent time in Amsterdam and then went on to Leiden where my true romance with the Netherlands solidified. 

This is a magical medieval city that still has the charm of cobblestones, a city citidel that you can walk the perimeter without permission of a ticket or a gate. I had spent so many times walking these walls and in the evening light got to see my boys playing out their fantasy knight characters. 

The Burght – Citidel from the siege in the 1500s.

Many choices in eggs

Leiden has a weekly market at which you could buy your supplies for the week. Meat, fish, cheese, nuts, fruit, vegetables and bunches and bunches of bright flowers for cost of a couple of coffees. Some of the merchants I had bought from 25 years ago were still there. The market is draped along side the canals in the center of the city. The journey around the neighborhood is delightful. 

One of my old haunts for coffee was still serving a lekker kopje (tasty cup of coffee) and it is on the sight where public executions took place hundreds of years ago and now houses the Universities Law school. Go figure.

Wall Poetry in Leiden

The coffee and beer was still tasty as well as the applegebak met slagroom – Apple pie with whipped cream which seems to be a common accompaniment to any afternoon coffee. 

Cafe Culture in Amsterdam

Beautiful buildings nestled up to each other date 400 years ago and offer a lot of charm as you walk though small alleyways hugging the walls to avoid being ringed at by passing bicyclers. We even rented bikes one day and made it to the North Sea.

It was about 22 miles round trip and a bit more than my sons had signed up for but, overall – brilliant! One of the best places to bike around since it is often so easy to pedal on the flat roads. 

Leiden has a beautiful culture of wall poems which grace the sides of random buildings all over the city. The poems are written in the tongue in which the author wrote them so then provide a culture lesson on attempting to translate their meaning.

I have wanted to start this tradition in my new adopted home town of Portland as I find it so impressive and charming to bump into these literary gifts as one walks around town. 

National Park on the way to Kruller Muller

Being here also gave me a chance to dust off my Dutch skills. While Dutch people speak English very well, my attempts were met with enthusiasm and encouragement.

I had forgotten how much I could actually remember. Also, the looks on Canyon and Oakley’s faces were inspiring as they felt I now had a secret identity that would allow me to communicate in this language. 

My other old home..up top.

One of my most cherished places in the Netherlands is the Kroller Muller Museum which is an art museum and one of the first places I ever went in the country back in 1989.

Since then I have dragged my family and friends to this art museum that has a several acre outdoor sculptor garden in the middle of the largest natural area in the country. 

You can’t really just drive up there. You can bus in or as we did pedal one of the free white bicycles provided at the beginning or middle of the great park.

You can travel for a couple of miles and wander off road and feel like you are in blessed isolation unlike one might imagine exists in the Netherlands. 

Art in the Park – Stairway to the Skies – at Kruller Muller

We also connected with friends of mine and oh joy, we ran into them by accident a day early (boating in the canals and Mette proving canal side coffee service) which allow us more time to connect and share our histories of the last nearly two decades. 

It felt like coming home to see my friends and spend quality time with them, meet their kids and, hopefully create more opportunities for more visits to come.

Wall Poetry

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Brussels Reunions and Starting The Seeds of Kids European Friendships

We arrived in Brussels on a blustery March day after a daylong journey from Hamburg, Germany via Koln. It is delightful to experience the German precision timing of the trains complete with markings to let you know exactly where you need to get on your train compartment. 

Our time in Brussels was punctuated by connections with friends from a while ago (since 2000), even longer (1991) and some time on our own after getting a bit ill.

After so many months on the road, it was a delight to be with friendly faces that welcomed us into their homes with open arms, home cooked meals.

One friend has two boys a little younger than Canyon and Oakley and thus, had the best selection of dress up outfits and toys for make believe games boys of 8 and 10 could wish for. 

It was soothing to be in someone else’s family rhythm of market shopping, cooking, washing up and school work. Also, to be the adults and tasting Belgian beers and soft French cheeses while the kids ran around. It felt like a holiday!

Our continuing world schooling agenda was punctuated by a visit to the Royal Museum of the Armed Forces and Military History  in which we saw many of the uniforms from WWII, our first real Knights in armor as well as 1000 year old swords.

It is one thing to read about them and quite another to see them live. Oakley is now on a Knights kick that has been carrying us throughout Europe. 

We also got to a county where I could brush off my Dutch skills and plunk clumsily through conversations to get some of our needs met.

The first time in many moons that I had a little bit of skill in the local language. Yes, most Europeans are adept at speaking English but, I really like to try to address folks in the native tongue when possible. 

We had been doing this for awhile. Learning please, thank you and the first 10 numbers whenever possible. In Belgium, my effort stalled when we met French speakers as my French is very, very, very, very weak but, folks were very accommodating to my Dutch.

In any case, our kids were wide eyed when I spoke in a language they didn’t know I knew. Canyon immediately proclaiming that he wants to learn another language and study. Who said we can’t inspire our kids. If any of this travel helps us inspire our kids well, Yahoo! That has been the purpose from this trip from the get go. 

With our friends, we also visited the House of European History at the European Parliament. A six floored, super friendly, kid oriented way to get some understanding of all these unique countries that have banded together to create the European Union. Whatever your thoughts of Brexit, one ought to explore the layers of this unique, complex gathering of countries. 

Ahhh, it was delightful. The sampled frites, organic markets, gorgeous chocolate and sumptuous coffees not to mention the beers. Connecting with long time friends and hopefully, creating some connections for our kids in making friends that I hope will last their life times. That is part of the purpose of this trip.

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Hamburg – A Beatles and Pretzel Tasting Sojourn

Sol: 250 now…a look at our trip to Hamburg….

Rathaus of Hamburg

What my children say I say much of the time.

We left Denmark and traveled by train and ferry to Germany for a couple days as a birthday trip for Kelvin. We were on our way to visit friends in Belgium and we decided that a little foray into Germany would be a nice way to celebrate Kelvin’s day. 

We arrived in Hamburg in the evening and clunked our way across several cobblestone streets to our hotel. We have been very economical and had not stayed at a hotel for the four of us in nearly six weeks.

It was a colorful neighborhood and on this brisk, cold night several of the natives offered us companionship (well, more Kelvin than the rest of us) and they looked cold too! At least not very well dressed for the weather. Perhaps the welcome crew?

Oakley in one of his favorite spaces.

Anyway, after Oakley spent the night in a closet (hey, who says kids have to have their reasons for being unique) we found our way to the City Hall and central part of the city. We took part in a walking tour of the city. It was one of those ‘free’ tours that you ‘tip’ at the end what you think it was worth. 

Our guide, originally from Pakistan, gave us an outstanding tour. His perspective as a non-native was illuminating. I learned things I never knew before or at the least expanded on my limited knowledge about Hamburg.

Did you know…

  • that Hamburg as one of the largest ports in Europe and has been for centuries,
  • Hamburg is the second largest city in Germany
  • that there is a long thriving Red Light District in Hamburg (hence the welcoming committees)
  • Hamburg is situated on the Elbe River (a common crossword clue for you Monday puzzlers)
  • that you can get the best sausages with a hunk of bread and a big dallop of mustard in nearly every neighborhood
  • that the Beatles played here over a two year period in 1960-1962 and did eight hour shows every night for weeks on end…..All this among other things we pondered.

What remains of St. Nicholas Church.

As we wandered around with our walking guide we learned another extraordinary fact was that Hamburg was bombed relentlessly during the 2nd world war. So much so that bombing raids in July 1943 by the Royal Air Force killed over 43,000 civilians and injuring 37,000 more with another million having been evacuated after the raids. It virtually destroyed the city. 

Hamburg is also home to Tesch and Stabenow, the company that invented and produced the gas Zyklon B used in the concentration camps. The owner of the company (Bruno Tesch) was arrested a war criminal, tried and executed after the war in the city. The building of his company has a memorial to acknowledge their role in the war. Bruno tried to deny responsibility for his role but, it came out that he is the one that suggested it to the Hitler and his team. 

Anyway, like the rest of us…Hamburg is much more than it’s worst story and we did find this city to be delightful. Even though many buildings were destroyed there were a lot of unique structures to explore.

Walking around Hamburg one can’t help but notice the enormous port still very much in place and very active. The river Elbe is broad and from a vantage point above you get the idea of how vast it really can be.

The Elbphilharmonie

A new building opened in January of 2017 called the Elbphilharmonie. This building which is one of the largest and acoustically advanced concert halls in the world, came with a pretty price tag that cost more than the budget allocated (don’t they all) so, it is free to visit for all Germans since their taxes covered all the extra cost.

The beginning budget was 241 million Euros and it ended up being 789 million Euros (that is nearly a billion US dollars for anyone keeping track. It is a marvel to visit and gaze out over the Elbe River. 

View from the Elbphilharmonie

We spent a scant 48 hours here before heading to visit friends in Belgium. It was delightful and rewarding. Happy Belated Birthday Kelvin! We made sure he got some German beer while he was conducting his own German pretzel tastings around the city. 

Again, thanks for reading and following along.

One of the love bridges.

The Chilihaus – Expressionistic Architecture from the 1920s.