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Dublin – Our Budget Family Visit

Ireland…seems appropriate to wander in our minds there especially on such an auspicious holiday such as St. Patrick’s Day. The world over, this holiday is known. Known for beer, for green, whether you are wearing it or looking at fullsizeoutput_e229it and for leprechauns or maybe more distantly for green rolling hills. 

I am thinking of the grand, welcoming time we had in Dublin on our trip. After the in-laws winged their way back to the States, our family was back to the budget balance of the four of us on the road again. We moved from a spacious Airbnb town house in the suburbs to a room in a hostel. Likely the smallest living space we were in on our entire trip. 

The room had two bunk beds and cages for our belongings like giant, chain link drawers under the bottom bunk. The kitchen as a flood of pleasant travelers, school groups and individuals finding their way around the chaos to find a slice of toast and half of a banana. A single jar of Nutella was passed around like a precious gem among around 20 people. We were lucky, as we had a small shower and toilet attached to our room. 

fullsizeoutput_e198So, while our living space shrunk considerably we are now in the middle of the city. Right outside our building, just steps away from vibrant door fronts, bright stores and cobblestones.

We were also treated the sounds of others celebrating the beauties of Ireland late at night or early in the morning as they drunkenly sang praises as they hobbled home. fullsizeoutput_e1d6

In the next days we experienced many wonderful gems. Including, the Long Room at Trinity College Dublin.

I had been before on my 30th birthday and loved it so much I have had a framed picture of it on my walls ever since. The boys noted the familiar view as we emerged at the end of the installations on the Book of Kells. All thoughtfully placed and accentuated by emerging in the great room. 

fullsizeoutput_e213We picnicked on the green grounds with college students and admired the near by sculptures in the warming sun. All while learning more about the momentous vote coming up for Ireland. jk2nXSAyRhax2GhRVgr0w.jpg

We wandered into a music store and meet Francois (unusual name to encounter in Dublin, assured). He let the boys try any and all instruments in his store.

While I was trying to round in the boys he encouraged them to try more. It was a good lesson for me to learn more about letting kids try things out and learn rather than keep things in order. fullsizeoutput_e21a

Francois (a Frenchman living in Ireland for several years now) invited us to join his ukulele class. We made a promise to return and went out to another appointment.

KwwqHU8AT7aWZeXx1XY%7Q Later that evening we returned and there he was all set for us with loaner ukuleles and several other class members. 

fullsizeoutput_e34bOne a 70+ Dublin woman who’s wonderful lilt had me cocking my head so I could truly understand her. Other folks from Ireland as well as a couple of Malaysian women who were currently living in Ireland.

We had a lovely lesson in this sunny room lit by the setting spring sun. It was delightful. Had we not been short on space (only our backpacks) we might have actually bought a ukulele. fullsizeoutput_e326

We also visited Little Museum of Dublin  of Dublin . This museum experience notes some of the most important historical events in Dublin and Irish history.

Especially some of the more modern events and folks such as an entire room on U2. The tour is entertainment in itself involving members of the group and with grand personality. 

IMG_7997The group was smallish (about 25) which made it more welcome for the shorter members of our group (read – crowd adverse Oakley). We would wholeheartedly recommend going to this museum to have an amazing view of Dublin to color your trip. 

Afterward, we wandered in St. Stephen’s Green Park which has soft green places to enjoy as well as many historical markers of Dublin’s history.

This park is, amazingly, over 400 years old, is like an oasis in the middle of the city. It has had many wandering and protecting its green treasures for decades but, many be best known to many as the place for the Easter Rising of 1916 when a ferocious battle happened in the park over four days marking Ireland fighting for independence from British rule. fullsizeoutput_e1ecVery powerful to walk around and see where people were actually bunkered down and fighting. 

We enjoyed our time as the city was warming up with sun and people were very friendly. We did some maintenance work such as Kelvin getting a haircut and a beard trim, all with a complimentary beer. 

fullsizeoutput_e323We came back to our room one evening planning our bags and next day’s plans as we would have to check out of the hostel before our ferry left the following late afternoon. We got a notification that our ferry to Wales was rescheduled due to weather for either the next morning at 8am or the next evening at 8pm. Yikes!

We were not totally prepared for the change. Also, a good friend was going to pick us up on the Wales side and we wanted to give him some notice in his busy life about the changes. VhCMAvPTRI6tWH90Bgrqwg

tVeAS9VKS96xNEUcBQP5A.jpgSo, we packed up and prepped to leave in the wee hours of the morning so, we could get there by the time the ferry would sail. That meant finding a ride early on Sunday morning (6am!) to the dock. Bumping in a ride share car in the early hours of Sunday in Dublin was a very quiet and peaceful journey. 

BRjVV259SsufbcrRHUeUQ.jpgOf course, we did it! We made that ferry. Don’t you worry.  Those adventures to continue in the next missive. 

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17 MEI or ‘Eat Ice Cream all day long’ Day

fullsizeoutput_dd42Norway is a beautiful country…deep blue fjords, mountains stretching up to the clouds, roads that wind through green and pleasant landscapes. One thinks of the Vikings and the ancient history of the Norge folks and their forays out beyond their borders to other lands.

But, have you ever thought about how the current political landscape was established in Norway?fullsizeoutput_dd84

Being friends with a former politician and journalist allows great opportunity for awareness of recent history. You might not know that Norway established their independence from their Scandinavian neighbors barely 200 years ago in 1814 after the Napoleonic Wars.

17 May is their constitution day. But, if you talk to a Norwegian it is ’17 Mei’ or as my friends taught our kids, it is ‘adults can’t say no to children day’. It is a day full of joy and vitality as children march in parades all over the country. IMG_7427

It is also notable that there is no military presence on this day. The entire country, and I do mean, the entire country dresses up in their national colors, school uniforms or traditional dress passed down from generations to walk and march and then eat as much ice cream as one can possibly stuff in themselves. Okay, maybe that was more my boys’ experience. However, being able to have a lot sweets is a big part of the fun. 

fullsizeoutput_ddd6The older kids end their Russe Busse at 11am when the parades start (see previous blog). The parades march around the neighborhoods and town and city centers all over the county. 

After watching local parades, our hosts secured all of us tickets to be in the courtyard of the Royal Palace in Oslo where we patiently awaited the appearance of the royal family all while watching the endless stream of parade participants march by and admire the local costumes. IMG_7398

fullsizeoutput_dd1cOakley was particularly excited and was sure that the King had waved directly to him as the entire royal family came out on the balcony. 

There is something calming and magical about dressing up along with everyone else in colors of blue, red and white. Having a bit more thought into our dress took some doing for us since we’d been traveling for so long we didn’t have much variety.fullsizeoutput_dc5e

I wore my lone dress I had made in Vietnam and borrowed a shirt for Canyon and Oakley got a new collared shirt. Dressing up seems to give us a sense of grace. 

fullsizeoutput_dc66After the royal courtyard experience and watching over 100,000 people proudly milling around we went for a luncheon at our friends Brita and Eva’s house. They had been preparing for this meal for a week. 

IMG_7453A true smorgasbord of delights as well as a lazy afternoon of snacking, wine sipping and light napping before we found our way back to Marianne and Tore’s house on public transport packed with others finding their way around in their nice dress as sated smiles. It was a sleepy, peaceful commute home. IMG_7430

The next day we had to recover some before we headed on to our next destination, grandparents along for the ride.

Our time in Norway was magical and we are eternally grateful for our experiences there. We will be back and especially on the day that one can unashamedly eat A LOT of ice cream and celebrate Norway and their people. IMG_7460

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Norway – Fjords and Fantastic Friends

IMG_6462I am back ‘home’ in Portland but, still my soul is floating around the earth. We have returned to our hometown and are putting down roots again….phone contracts, bought a used car, set up utility accounts and kids are now at Montessori but, we aren’t done with this journey or the next steps.IMG_6489

I write now to continue to document our adventures for posterity and for the boys. We will be processing all this for many a moon to come and with that, comes new decisions and directions. Although, I can’t say that too loudly near our youngest son or he will run screaming from the room….just kidding. IMG_6511

So, Norway….we have some stories to tell. This was not on our big list when we made the ‘dream list’ at the beginning of the travel plans but, it came about and I am so glad that it did.

I do have two friends from my Leiden University studying days in the 90s that live in IMG_6550Oslo and they both offered advice, homes, meals and warm welcomes to our travel queries. 

Also, my mother in law’s grandfather left Norway to find his way to this land as an immigrant in the late 1800s and thus we had a some family lineage to find and follow. IMG_6672

When we announced that we would be going on this trip my mother in law was not keen on being away from her grandkids for a year so, we said, ‘Come join us somewhere!’ 

And so, they did. Being recently retired folks from Idaho they started at square one to get passports for the first time and they entrusted me to plan their path. IMG_6626

For us, it was a luxury to be around family, familiar and warm faces with loads of hugs but, also an opportunity to share in this family finding journey. 

IMG_6705My Norwegian friends offered to do a little genealogy research for us and when she presented us with an 80 page document before we arrived of all she found we were blown away. 

This kindness and curiosity in our background was a priceless gift. We used this information to pin point places to visit. IMG_1476

Kelvin ,the boys and I arrived in Oslo before the in-laws in to the welcoming embrace of Marianne and Tore. Marianne and I studied together and had been in touch over the years but, it was the first time we had seen each other in over 18 years. 

IMG_6662She had recently opted to not run for reelection to the Norwegian parliament but, gave us intimate access to the Parliament and a tour I am sure you could not ‘book’ anywhere else. IMG_7086

It was like seeing an old friend as we picked up where we had left off last time. Talking about our kids (she has three) and her new work she showed us what it is like to be a working mom and professional. IMG_7173 2

My other friend Brita and her partner Eva (she’s the one that did the genealogy research for us without having even met us) also joined us on walks throughout Oslo to the Resistance Museum and drinks along the waterfront among other places. 

IMG_7200All while high school equivalent students were running around the city in their flight suits and tricked out buses celebrating their transition to adulthood. Its called Russebuss and it is a fascinating tradition. IMG_6844

Russe Buses in Oslo

I’am going to write more about this and the Norwegian Constitutional Day which deserve their own billing. 

IMG_6761 2So, anyway…..family history found us driving (well Kelvin driving, really. We just all cheered him on from the back seat) for what seemed like 100s of miles and hours and hours.IMG_6996

This was not a problem as the beauty of Norway is endless. Even when you go through kilometers long tunnels through their mountains and pop out into a landscape worthy of the best visual calendar you could ever pin up on your wall. IMG_7164 2

The glaciers (wow), the goats (oh, my), the lambs (have to mention the for Oakley as he pointed out every one of the 10,000 we saw along the way, the fjords (unbeliveable), the moose (meese?, what is the plural for that), the eye watering bright skies with stunning panoramic views as you just look up from your google map EVERY, IMG_7110SINGLE TIME!. 

In Utvick, I think we stayed in one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to when including the view outside and the chick decorations inside.IMG_7078

I felt like we were in a magazine spread but, did not need a fresher of make up. The sun would barely set and the glow would hover on the horizon in the wee hours of the night. IMG_6830

We chased down family graveyards, enjoyed several of the many ferries, and just watched the nature around us. Stunning and beautiful. Have I gotten the point across?

IMG_6888You will love it if you go and do get out of Oslo, lovely city yet, there is so much to this enormous by European standards country. 

If you do, hug a lamb for Oakley because he couldn’t get across the stoic momma ewe. As much as we tried. 

Goat Rush Hour Video – Check it out!

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World School Room

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Goat Rush Hour

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Paradise Airbnb

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The Fjord

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Not even Mid Summer and loooong daylight

 

 

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Dutch Treat as we Tip Toed Through the Tulips

Tulips in bloom!

Kings Day celebrations

The time in the Netherlands was exhilerating for me. I was following a dream to bring my kids to the Netherlands to show them the places that have touched my heart. These are places that make my heart squeeze with ache when I think of them. These are places I have lived, walked, biked, worked, studied and loved in.

My life long relationship with the Netherlands started when I was barely a 20 year old coming to study here in a program for my year abroad back in 1989. I lived in Groningen, Tilburg and Leiden. 

In the intervening 28 years I have found myself trying to find ways to come back again and again. I studied here for two years total and ended up living and working here back in 2000-2001 then came back to the States to be with my terminally ill mother. 

My former flat with lovely round windows.

I have visited for short periods here and there and have many lovely friends and connections that are Dutch or I met them in the Netherlands.

Dear Mette on a Gezellig evening

So coming back to the NL this time had a lot of importance for me and I tried to make is so I didn’t put too much pressure on my children to fall in love with this beautiful, unique country. But, it was hard, really, really hard not to.

We stayed for a week with a friend and his family across the river Ij in Amsterdam.  I had met this friend my first few days here back in 1989. Berend met us at the station and swept us up into his arms (he is a big guy!) and welcomed us into his family. 

The Kings Day celebrations were happening while we were there. This includes celebrations of street fairs, music, food and drink but, it also has what could possibly be the worlds largest swap market/yard sale.

These Dutch lads really drink their milk. Elianto is 16 year old!

All Dutch people bring out their wares that they are wishing to get rid of while perusing the offerings of their neighbors. It might be that some are just swapping goods each year. In any case, there are rows and rows of things carefully laid out on blankets on the cobblestone streets. If you wished you could furnish a whole house on this day!

It was our first real plunge into visual arts as we walked the halls of the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh museum. On this trip, we have been careful to avoid overloading our kids with too many museums so they don’t blend into a dreaded, unwanted march through ‘old things’.

My favorite cafe from the last three decades.

Taking our time with these places and using the provided children’s scavenger hunt book by the museum made our excursions rather interesting and delightful. 

We also found our way to the Anne Frank House which is a must for any trip to Amsterdam and a powerful example and reminder of the costs of war and conflict. When we hear bells anywhere now Canyon says he thinks of Anne when she heard the nearby bells of Westerkerk (Church) from her hiding place.

I’m wondering what the boys will take away from these travels. We are exploring so many treasured places but, they are also cherished by me. Sometimes the impact is big and others times it’s mild. 

Ulrika and her masterpieces!

My hope is that years from now they will remember some of these walks, talks and forays into history and pull out a nugget they want to unpack a bit more. I have found that I have so much I want to write about and will continue to unpack this trip myself – through writing here and such. 

Our time in the Netherland was punctuated with interactions with friends and their families and those experiences warm my heart. We spent time in Amsterdam and then went on to Leiden where my true romance with the Netherlands solidified. 

This is a magical medieval city that still has the charm of cobblestones, a city citidel that you can walk the perimeter without permission of a ticket or a gate. I had spent so many times walking these walls and in the evening light got to see my boys playing out their fantasy knight characters. 

The Burght – Citidel from the siege in the 1500s.

Many choices in eggs

Leiden has a weekly market at which you could buy your supplies for the week. Meat, fish, cheese, nuts, fruit, vegetables and bunches and bunches of bright flowers for cost of a couple of coffees. Some of the merchants I had bought from 25 years ago were still there. The market is draped along side the canals in the center of the city. The journey around the neighborhood is delightful. 

One of my old haunts for coffee was still serving a lekker kopje (tasty cup of coffee) and it is on the sight where public executions took place hundreds of years ago and now houses the Universities Law school. Go figure.

Wall Poetry in Leiden

The coffee and beer was still tasty as well as the applegebak met slagroom – Apple pie with whipped cream which seems to be a common accompaniment to any afternoon coffee. 

Cafe Culture in Amsterdam

Beautiful buildings nestled up to each other date 400 years ago and offer a lot of charm as you walk though small alleyways hugging the walls to avoid being ringed at by passing bicyclers. We even rented bikes one day and made it to the North Sea.

It was about 22 miles round trip and a bit more than my sons had signed up for but, overall – brilliant! One of the best places to bike around since it is often so easy to pedal on the flat roads. 

Leiden has a beautiful culture of wall poems which grace the sides of random buildings all over the city. The poems are written in the tongue in which the author wrote them so then provide a culture lesson on attempting to translate their meaning.

I have wanted to start this tradition in my new adopted home town of Portland as I find it so impressive and charming to bump into these literary gifts as one walks around town. 

National Park on the way to Kruller Muller

Being here also gave me a chance to dust off my Dutch skills. While Dutch people speak English very well, my attempts were met with enthusiasm and encouragement.

I had forgotten how much I could actually remember. Also, the looks on Canyon and Oakley’s faces were inspiring as they felt I now had a secret identity that would allow me to communicate in this language. 

My other old home..up top.

One of my most cherished places in the Netherlands is the Kroller Muller Museum which is an art museum and one of the first places I ever went in the country back in 1989.

Since then I have dragged my family and friends to this art museum that has a several acre outdoor sculptor garden in the middle of the largest natural area in the country. 

You can’t really just drive up there. You can bus in or as we did pedal one of the free white bicycles provided at the beginning or middle of the great park.

You can travel for a couple of miles and wander off road and feel like you are in blessed isolation unlike one might imagine exists in the Netherlands. 

Art in the Park – Stairway to the Skies – at Kruller Muller

We also connected with friends of mine and oh joy, we ran into them by accident a day early (boating in the canals and Mette proving canal side coffee service) which allow us more time to connect and share our histories of the last nearly two decades. 

It felt like coming home to see my friends and spend quality time with them, meet their kids and, hopefully create more opportunities for more visits to come.

Wall Poetry

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Danish Hygge and What We Learned in Being Calm and Cozy

When we arrived in Denmark for our three-week plus house and pet sit, we were a bit more worn out than we had imagined. The farm was the home to a couple who taught us a lot about Danish Hygge. One who worked part-time as a butcher and the other a foot and physical therapy (not to be mixed!). Their farm-house was nearly 140 years old, had two floors and easily six bedrooms. Wonderous views from each direction through windows and skylights showed us the ever-changing sky. 

Our charges were one cat named Merlot who brought gifts of hard-fought birds and mice and a three-year old fluffy, playful Irish Terrier named Rusty who exhibited the habits of the cutest cartoon dog you could imagine. 

Additionally, we cared for over a dozen chickens including five roosters, three of which became dinner…more on that later. 

When we landed after a literal round the globe journey lasting five days I fell ill with the Danish flu. Or at least the flu that I heard was running around Europe and the rest of the Western world.

For the next two weeks I struggled with fevers, malaise as well as a heavy chest cold. Of all the places to fall ill, this warm home proved to be very soothing recovery haven indeed. I was exceedingly grateful for this space.  I went to a Danish Doctor to see what I should do to help feel better. I asked for something akin to Nyquil. This may have been the first time in my life I wanted Nyquil. He looked up it up online and said the Danes don’t have anything like that but, recommended that I go drink tea, rest and watch Netflix. The modern Hygge.

After months of being in tropical weather and convinced we would not have a ‘regular’ winter we were treated to several winter storms, snow flurries and downright blizzards. We were overjoyed to make snowmen, slide on some ice and have snowball fights. I was more an observer but, we all very much enjoyed it. 

The kitchen we were occupying had all the supplies one (mainly my husband) would need to create sumptuous home cooked meals. Kelvin was in his element as he made stews, soups, roast chickens, cassoulets, braised meats and salads all washed down with hearty wines and cold, clear water.

We consumed cup after cup of coffee or tea several times a day and often pared them with Danish baked goods found in neighboring villages. We had farm fresh eggs (up to 12 a day!) as well as dark, thick bread that after toasted only needed a smear of butter to become a slice of heaven. 

I now know why Danes are known for their baked goods. The danishes we have in the States are a very poor representation of what the Danes actually make. When we made our way into the nearby town of Svendborg we inevitably visited Brod – A Danish Baking Studio which quickly became our new haunt.

Kelvin make plans with Ib (our host) to ‘take care of’ three chickens that were harassing many of the hens in the pen. He made a list to prepare for the slaughter and to process the meat.

I found this list and had to double take as Kelvin had forgotten the ‘e’ on humane as I read his list that looked like a serial killer prep list. Maybe too many Law and Order episodes from my past? In any case, the whole event was another life skill world school moment for the boys. 

We had been away from a fully supplied kitchen and we relished in having the ability to make breakfast, lunch and dinner on site, warm ourselves by the fireside while wearing the handmade wooly socks made by our host. Can you say Hygge? Ib and Ann offered up all their coats, boots, gloves, hats, scarves (even a Gryffindor one much to Oakley’s delight) and overalls as well as their car to supply us with the tools to journey around the property and the Island of Fyn. 

We did make a couple of excursions to round out our Danish experience. We had whimsical world school day in Odense, the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen and followed big red foot prints on the cobble stones to trace his roots around town. All while enjoying street art, warm drinks and Hans skill as a paper cut out artist.

The Princess and the Pea Bed

The boys were also invited to talk to a local school. We visited a class of 8-10 year olds as they were learning English. Canyon was very brave and presented at the beginning of class and conducted questions in his forward fashion. We continued to experience a humble awareness of the language aptitude of the Danes. Most people already knowing more than two languages by the age of 10 years old. 

No visit to Denmark would be complete without involvement in a Lego activity. We went to the Lego House in Billund for a day of Lego. Billund is the birthplace of Lego. I was undoubtedly surprised to be so entertained. I knew the boys would be, however, I was childlike as I went room to room to see the interactive activities set up around Lego pieces. My favorite was a live Sim City-like interactive play of making a city. I had to work that evening so we regretfully had to leave before we were all ready to go. 

In the mainstream media, there has been a liberal use of the term Hygge. Admittedly, I did not know about this term until I arrived but, a friend commented on our experience and said it looked very Hygge. It is hard to translate into English as we don’t have an exact equivalent. 

I found this New Yorker article  Hygge – A form of Cozy which helped inform my experience. We found this word to be a true representation of our experience.

We found our experiences steeped in warm, cozy, pleasant surroundings and, at times, lit in a low-light glow all while enjoying simple pleasures such as a tasty cup of coffee while watching the snow fall from a fire warmed room. I dug into crosswords, some books, cozy blankets and sweet Danish bread after walking Rusty in the brisk, clean air. It did feel like a calming elixir. 

Our experience with the Danes as a people was also warming. They won’t walk up to you to introduce themselves in grocery store, however, once introduced they proved to be some of the warmest, friendliest people I’ve ever met.

The daughter of our host, Line, brought food and family over for an afternoon of Hygglick activities including cuddling the pets and playing chess all while eating homemade Brunsviger, a kind of celebratory brown sugar bread, liver paste, cheese, chocolate for bread slices and endless cups of tea and coffee.

Line also provided Kelvin and I with our first night and honestly, our first several hour stretch while awake as she took care of the boys and sent us off on a night alone (gasp!) in a nearby hotel. The first time in 200 days which we had a night of sleep and a hot meal without the kids with us. We barely knew what to do but, found ourselves happily experiencing Hygge with some tasty beer and snacks at a pub and a super snooze in a cozy bed.

Our hosts came back and we stayed on for a few days to celebrate Kelvin’s birthday with them. Some alcohol was consumed and we only had to totter upstairs and curl up in extra fluffy duvets. They were kind, generous and very pleasant.

So, we wrapped up our time in Denmark a bit heavier around the waist but, happily rested and well connected with our new friends as we left feeling like family. 

Line and various drinks for a Danish dinner party.

Rusty and very cold boys at the Cold War Museum

Winter!

Street Art and Oakley in Odense

How to choose a flavor of a lollypop?

Hans Christian Anderson

My Lego House Photo

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Our Journey – Five Countries in Five Days

Sol: 180 by the time we landed in the fifth country.

We travelled through five countries in five days. Like many a parenting moments I’ve had over the last eight months, I never thought I’d say that statement.

This is a log of our adventure inlike I thought we’d ever take. We travelled through five countries in five days. These are our adventures. I document the countries visited, modes of transportation taken, jet lag experienced, sustainance obtained and currencies used. I start on day one of movement on our journey and continues through six days.

IMG_3062.jpgDay One, Tuesday: We woke up in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. IMG_3060.jpgWe had been staying at a nicer hotel as we had been traveling hard for a while. We decided to let ourselves stay in a place a bit nicer than our normal choices. Meaning, we had predictable hot water and the beds were blessedly soft and fluffed with clean duvets. We had some more room and there were not as many unpredictable bugs visiting us.

We had a late check out and lounged around outside on the warm grass and I read Harry Potter The Goblet of Fire aloud to the boys as we drank in the warm sunshine, not really fullsizeoutput_c5a8knowing it would be nearly the last of our tropical weather. fullsizeoutput_c58dWe got a ride in a van to the bus terminal which doubled as a cafe’ on the side of the road. Our bus was leaving from Sihanoukville at 8:30pm. The sun was down as we climbed onboard our overnight bus to Siem Reap.

Our bus, called the Giant Ibis, was actually very comfortable as we were able to lay down in little slots the size of a full bed. The bus had a toilet, plugs for electronics, a bottle of water for each of us and WiFi. fullsizeoutput_c5aaFor about $25 a person it was not a bad way to travel North through Cambodia in the dead of night.

Day Two, Wednesday: We arrived in Siem Reap, Cambodia around 6am passing the ghostly outlines of Angkor Wat near the bus station. As the fog lifted we sorted a Tuk Tuk to the next bus station and we met our friend from our earlier stay in Siem Reap.IMG_3115

At this bus station Kelvin sought out a cup of coffee, an a pile of bananas for less than a dollar on that dusty road. We stayed in the station which was likley someone’s house in the not too distant past waiting for the bus to be ready for departure as the staff washed themselves in the station bathroom.

IMG_3110We departed at 8:30am for Bangkok, Thailand. This bus goes through the notorious Poi Pot border crossing from Cambodia into Thailand. The border crossing is a bit easier this way as we didn’t have to get a visa before going through passport control. However, it is still an assault on the senses and having sensory sensitive kids it was especially so.KLZZpSxjT0KftXO142EgsQ.jpg

Oakley does not do well with struggles of being too close to people he does not know, things being too loud, too odorous, too touchy and people really wanting to know more about him and us.

kZOiEtVOSuakF5zI8jLR5A.jpgIt was hard, sweaty and dusty but, we did it. Each stop from passport control to the next is outside in the city along camps of people with outstretched hands offering or asking us many things.

In the end, we adjusted through to the border to Thailand. cqA8tqRNK9Xjmixw99w.jpgWe dug out our the Thai Baht we had saved and bought fresh snacks. We were coming in on 19 hours of travel. The bus driver dropped us not far from the hotel we booked in Bangkok near the airport.

We tried to get an Uber ride but, it is illegal in Thailand so struggled with some of the limitiations. We eventually found a ride in the complimentarly hotel van we didn’t know was an option.

We arrived at the hotel at around 5pm. We took hot showers and some of us a hot soak as we had a bathtub! A luxury! We dropped to sleep after getting some food sent in from the hotel after Kelvin wandered around the neighborhood for a 7/11, the best place for supplies.

imageDay Three, Thursday: A rest day in Thailand. A good friend from back home Grace came to hang out with us for the afternoon. IMG_3137This is after Kelvin ended up cooking our eggs and breakfast for us at the restaurant as they were, seemingly, short on staff.

Grace is a Vietnamese American who has her incredible own story of how she came to the US as a five-year old via a refugee camp on a boat in the dark of night. Her story is not mine to tell but, she taught us a lot in our afternoon together. She was also the first person we knew that we have seen in months.

BJAEdHPXTT66DOwk9X4THgIt was the start of the Lunar New Year so many fireworks exploded through the night as we tried to sleep.fullsizeoutput_c599

Day Four, Friday: We woke EARLY at 4am to get to the Suvarnabhumi airport in Bangkok, Thailand. This was going to be the big push day. After spending the last of our baht on over priced coffees, we lined up for security at our gate.

fullsizeoutput_c592We flew from Bangkok, Thailand to Abu Dhabi, in the United Arab Emirates in seven hours on Etihad Airlines.Video from Airline Cameras

I count the United Arab Emirates which may be a stretch but, we were there! The desert stretching out to the end of the sea as we watched from the airplane cameras. IMG_3182

The airport had a few snack options, a chance to sit on a bronze camel and a long security check on every single electronic item we possessed. fullsizeoutput_c59dAll wiped down with tissues seeking nafarious substances. We had a short layover and then took off for London. Another seven hours in the air.

It was a truly round the world experience watching the map on the plane plot our course though time and space. I felt I should tune into Stephen Hawking a bit more.fullsizeoutput_c597

Video from Airplane cameras

The plane has these amazing cameras that show live footage from the bottom, the tail and front of the plane. An other worldly experience that had us marveling at how one to can go so far in such a span of time.

fB5luFVZSEmzBnKjqRqHOgOur plane held 496 passengers and 22 staff. Our row was ten seats across with two aisles and was a double-decker with a staircase and business class in what I read were actual beds. When we landed it felt like a barely a bump.wWGWiS00QueeZLgDLcIO8g

We landed in London, England. Scrambled for food, sim cards and British pounds. We took an Uber to our friend’s house and had the sticker shock of being back in one of the most expensive counties.

H8ZffcE7RduwaljTQ+sXUwOur ride from the airport cost more than seven days of accommodation in Cambodia. Jet lagged and chilly we counted the hours we were awake (24) and fell into the comfy and clean beds of our friends house was we were nuzzled by their two kitties.

Day Five, Saturday: We rested in London, England as we adapted to the time change as well as the weather. We were ill-equipped for the chilly winds blowing through the city although, we were delighted for a change.

We ended up going out for breakfast which was tasty yet, a shocking zap to our budget. We then wandered through charity shops looking for long pants, fleeces, gloves and other adjustments to our wardrobe.L8q9fm9ER96F7E06ME5oow

I took the Tube across town to have lunch with some friends while the boys played Legos with our friend’s collection. We had to have a traditional fish and chips for dinner while continuing to adjust our heads and sleep schedules.

g6TmxHQSRoCZIDBd6ULHXgDay Six, Saturday: We woke up before the sun to gather our belongs one more time and shuttled off to Luton Airport. We had an interesting ride through the fog gazing out at the hills reaching for green as we wheeled past.

At Luton, it was another exercise in airport check-ins as we eyed the automatic weapons of the police staff that patrolled the walkways.LFY+CKH4RgicDqsycKC%AQ

Wandering stores after check in, we bought sandwiches, trashy newspapers, chocolate, coffees and bags of crisps for our trip. Completly enjoying having options in English for the first time five months.

QGUg2pcSRySdcpa1hPp0GwAfter boarding a Ryan Jet flight by trudging up the stairs in the icy wind from the tarmac we bid goodbye to Britain for a while. We winged our way to Copenhagen, Denmark. We found our way to the train connections to bring us to the Danish village we were going to  stay.8Vw6zrHdSL+V%twT7wTbiA

We sorted the change in platforms after witnessing someone lingering too long as the efficient Danish train door closed exactly when it said it would on a passenger’s leg effectively shutting down the entire train for a while as emergency workers came to extract the passenger from their painful fate.

Z8wCr1yHR5S4Xoi791eycwWincing, we found our alternative train and trundled towards our destiny on the Island of Fyn to the town to Nyborg where our host was patiently waiting for us as we disembarked some nearly two hours later.

After nearly six months on the road and five months since we stayed with people that we knew beforehand, we were welcomed into the warm embrace of our Danish hosts in the village of Vestrup. We were truely treated like family.zKhzBzGdRlaj3iLUSwdROA

The evening felt like a homecoming even though none of us had met before. A large welcoming meal and several glasses of wine later I snuggled in an extra cozy duvet surrounded by our boys on the second floor of this 140 year old farm-house. It was lovely, calming and blissfully welcoming.

IMG_3308What followed was an amazing Danish farm experience. That will be documented on my next post.

As I drifted off, I could scarcely believe that we had, indeed, touched soil in six countries in six days ending up in another place to practice our round the world journey and world schooling for the boys.

As always, thanks for reading. Please share if you like!

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Singapore Style in a Whirlwind 48 Hours

A whirlwind excursion in Singapore

To get a cheaper flight to Vietnam we traveled to Singapore to catch a cheaper option. I also wanted to visit this place that my parents had been to so many times over the decades as it holds a place of mystery and reverence for me.

Parent Memories

My Dad did a lot of business in Asia in the 1970s to the end of his life. At least once a year my parents would travel to Asia often for about a three-week period when they would visit Japan, China, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia and Taiwan among other places. Nancy Joy Memorial Show 2001.027In the 1990s, I worked for a short time in Hong Kong for a colleague of my Dad’s. It was an interesting time and experience.

Singapore always invokes a mix of west and east for me. Amazingly, I never got to travel in Asia with my mom and did go to Hong Kong once with my Dad. Being here now, I so ache for an experience of walking around with them if only for a day or a couple of hours. Both of my parents have passed and this trip is often a tip of a hat in their direction as they instilled the love to travel in me partly due to their extensive travel while my brothers and sister were growing up.

I do know, we have very different travel styles. My family and I are decidedly budget oriented. My Dad’s businesses had him ‘smoozing’ folks so, I think there were a lot more high-end hotels, banquet dinners and glasses of cognac.fullsizeoutput_a03a

For a decade, my mom built a part-time career writing about her travels and food. Her muse in her food column, frequently came from her travels with my Dad. She would travel around Asian cities on her own while my Dad was in meetings. I look back and think it had to be rather lonely at times. It is sometimes lonely being with your family in a place where you are the stranger in a strange land.

Strong memories stir as we wander around Singapore. I know my mom thought the world of the Raffles Hotel. We decided to go there for a Singapore Sling and look around. fullsizeoutput_a024While most of it is under re-construction, it held an air of prestige with high ceilings, white columns, giant billiard tables and support staff dressed as Raj royalty. It felt a  little rich for my blood but, I did love being there and smiling up at my mom.

Indulgences 

The Singapore Sling was tasty but, SO EXPENSIVE! We have had accommodations that were cheaper than that drink. Let me put it this way, two Singpore Slings, one mocktail the kids shared and to appetizers cost the same as four nights in our place in Da Nang, Vietnam. I am glad we did it even though we are committed to noodles made at home for several nights to make up our budget!

IMG_7721The food areas in Chinatown and the Golden Mile were well worth a visit. IMG_7828Sumptuous food for really fraction of that cocktail! Such a wide array of foods; Indian, Malay, Chinese, Thai, even Italian, English and American among others.

The journey from Malaysia – leaving Johor to Singapore was a bit of a struggle. Our boys are struggling with their backpacks and this border crossing you have to walk a lot. You have to walk through several areas to leave Malaysia, then ride a bus across the bridge to then go through another series of rooms and passport checkins to then end up without an access to an ATM, a phone with a SIM card that didn’t work anymore and no free WiFi which is frequently available at other ports of entry. We were able to get a taxicab which we have rarely taken as the cost is less predictable.

fullsizeoutput_a087

Look at the ships in the international waters. Looks like a real life version of battleship.

We have taken a fair amount of Ubers and Grab Cars during our travels. Grab cars (or motor scooters) is like an Uber and you can pay in cash. You can also order food to be delivered or even a masseur to be sent to you. We haven’t tried that option yet although it is tempting!

The people were very, very friendly and of course, with a 1% crime rate we felt pretty safe. In fact, I went to buy a SIM card and the salesman loaded it in my phone and then informed me that they take cash only. I grimaced and slightly panicked.  IMG_7776I didn’t have any cash on me. He directed towards an ATM several blocks away.

Trusting me to come back and pay him. On my way back I got a little lost in a sudden downpour and finally found the shop again. He seemed nonplussed that it took me awhile. No big deal, he shrugged.

I was told there are cameras everywhere so, you may not see police but, they are watching. If you do something you will get seen and visited within 24 hours. This includes chewing gum. Yep, not legal. And don’t even think about selling it!

Singpore Flyer – View of the World

The Singapore Flyer was a treat. My husband kept calling the Portland Flyer – a nod to our hometown hockey team. It was sweet. The ride is a half hour-long and is like a giant ferris wheel.

IMG_7761

Our Space Capsule in the Signapore Flyer

It was spendy but, worth the view especially since we got to have the entire capsule to ourselves. It is reportedly, the largest ferris wheel in the world.

The view was incredible especially when you’re told that on a clear day you can see into three countries and 45 kilometers. It was amazing to see all the ships in the harbor, just outside the Singapore border. We were told that the waters are calmer there and that ships often hang out in the international waters waiting to port.

I think all of Singapore feels expensive, especially the accommodations. I cashed in some Chase miles to get a room that was somewhat more reasonable.

IMG_7736

How most takeaway is served. Add a straw and drink your chai.

It is amazing as just across the border the same place would be about 80% cheaper.

We were told that road to the airport has potted greenery in the median in order to create an emergency runway if needed. Singapore is a tiny, island country with a lot of personality, grace and grit.

We purposely spent just a couple of days there so, we could gather ourselves for our trip to Vietnam. All in all a good, brief visit.

Thanks for following! As always, please let me know that you think of the blog. I love hearing from you.

More from Vietnam soon.

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Smoothie? Made with real sugar cane? Why, yes you can!

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Darn, the fresh frog porridge place is closed!

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Chinatown

 

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Lego-lisiousness in Legoland!

Sol 86

As I sit up on my 9th story perch in Ho Chi Mihn City

HCMC Writing Spot

 

I am reflecting on our time in Malaysia. There is so much to write about here in Vietnam and I will get to that but, first want to revisit our adventures at Legoland in Southern Malaysia and Singapore.

Going to a theme park was not part of our original plan but, the opportunity came up, our kids LOVE Legos and the boys were struggling with a bit of homesickness.

The Lobby of Legoland Hotel

Now, do we run off to a theme park every time we are sad…no but, it sure doesn’t hurt to go that extra kilometer (see what I did there with the metric system reference?) to soothe ourselves a bit.

LEGOLAND HOTEL

Legoland Malaysia was pretty sweet. I haven’t been to Disneyland since I was a teenager but, I imagine it is like the ‘happiest place on earth’. We decided to stay at the Legoland Hotel which has themed rooms with scavenger hunts, Lego characters walking around, life-size Lego mini figures, characters walking around and LEGOS everywhere to play with. Big blocks and little blocks.

There are daily building contests and workshops as well as a character parade in the lobby. It was so sweet to see joy on so many faces. Not just ours but, the plenitude of families from all over. There were families there from India, China, and all over SE Asia. We were definitely the minority as we would nod hello to another ‘Western” family from time to time.

Breakfast and dinner buffets were a cultural lesson in itself. So many options of food from standard Western choices to a plethora of Eastern ones too. Did you want Dim Sum with your pancakes? Or French Pastries with Chinese Congee porridge with dried fish on top? Or a traditionally poured spiced chai, watermelon juice, white coffee or full cream milk?

Out in the park, did you want to swim in your hijib or swimsuit or use the body dryer (like a giant hair dryer for your whole body) after getting wet on a ride? Did you want to pray when the call to prayer happened or have a dragon fruit smoothie?

Prayer Spot in Park

All of this while being surrounded by Lego figures?

Our room was the Adventure theme which the boys picked out. It seemed very appropriate for our current journey. Maps and decor from an Egyptian papyrus abound.

Huge ‘Body Dryers’ and all the teens getting dry.

Because we are family half filled with introverts we spent plenty of time in the room. While it was our first place without a kitchen during our travels we did order room service which, amazingly didn’t cost more than the restaurant and the delivery folks refused tips only wanting you to put in a good word at the ‘opinion kiosks’ around the place.

A scooter accident portrayed at Mini-land

THE PARKS

The rides were fine. Oakley tried his first roller coaster and was thrilled. The most impressive areas to me were the Minilands where replicas of iconic places around Asia are constructed to impressive, minute detail. Even the scooter accidents with media and police presence on the street. I could have spent hours here. It was super hot so, we melted as we perused even with the welcome mister machines nearby.

The Star Wars exhibit was stunning with a room dedicated to each episode including the TV Clone Wars. We are Star Wars family so, we loved this geeked out to our hearts content.

They have a water park as well and it was also fine. A lazy river bobbing with big legos you can attach to your floating device. A ‘Build a Raft” float as it were.

In any case, it was lovely to have a big family time in what felt like a big playground. I heard ‘Everything is Awesome’ more times than I care to count but, it was worth it. We did let the boys get a few, small Lego sets to take with us on the road as nothing beats the blues like a couple of hours of Lego play.

A BALANCE OF TRAVEL AND FAMILY

Our travel journey is of where we are going but, it is also richly in the details of our relationships with our kids and between my husband and I. We are a collection of varying personalities and we all need different things to fill our batteries. We discover that more and more as we move along.

Family outings are my favorite and seeing the world whiz by in my window really fills my cup but, I know Oakley and Kelvin need more down time. Canyon too at times. I do too in my own way. Writing is actually very, very helpful for me to sort my head.

I get worried about the things we are doing or not doing and if we are keeping the kids on track in school. Do we communicate enough with family and friends. How do we sort out the time differences and make connections.

Accepting that we can be doing a once in a lifetime thing and still feel rather lonely and miss down time tucked in our oversized duvet back in Oregon.

It is all a balance. And we are working on it day by day. Okay, okay….enough about our inner-psyche.

Next, we headed to Singapore for a couple of days before heading to Vietnam. More on that in our next blog.

As always, thanks for reading and following!

I’m still in love with my Chef Husband but, it was nice to met Lego Chef!

The Deathstar!

The bathrooms at Legoland

Mini-Legoland

Ha! Love the sense of humor!

Fresh Seafood at Legoland?

 

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Our Bali Excursion is Winding Down, Our Life Long Love Affair is Just Beginning

Sol 61: Coming up on three weeks in Bali. We’ve had some highs and some lows. The awe at the constant beauty around us has not waned. It seems every time I look up I see something unique, amazing, delightful or a bit different and quirky.

The bargaining never stops.

New Kite Flying Friends

My husband is tallying a list of ‘things I have seen being carried on a scooter’ and it just about contains everything possible. I’ve seen tiny, tiny babies nestled between ma and pa, panes of glass being held aloft, piles of branches, sticks and grass, complete mini-stores where one might make a meal or sell you a plethora of snacks. All of this wheeling by you.

Dewi makes the best meals!

The places we have stayed have been varied from an estate/villa such as the place we are at now to a house in the middle of a more tattered neighborhood where our point woman was amazing. She arranged for our boys to fly kites with her sons and made the best Nasi Goreng.

Emade, our amazing driver from Ubud. Email him for driving at nyoman.wati72@gmail.com

We ended up leaving early though as we found a dead bird under our bed and a bird nest above our son’s bed in the thatched roof that was less than sanitary. Bird poo on your sheets and pillows? We had to draw the line somewhere. The host (whom we never met) told us by email ‘that is nature’ and I am inclined to think it is but, it doesn’t have to be on my son’s head.

Dinner on Jimbaran Beach.

We are getting more adaptive in the heat. I wouldn’t say more used to it. You can see why people have plunge pools to dip into and wash off the heat of the day.

Monkey back rubs at the Monkey Forest Sanctuary.

We can see Mt. Agung from our current house and she is still resting. We are grateful for this but, also are acutely aware that there are several thousand people still living away from their homes out of the evacuation zone in refugee camps. This is heart breaking and a struggle.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces

Our boys have adjusted to mom and dad being the guides/teachers for the interim.

They are adjusting and we are soaking up our last week here as Friday, we head to Malaysia

There are very typical Bali experiences I am committing to memory. I share 10 of them with you here.

  • the sweeping up of all the flowers that fell overnight with a broom made of palm leaves.
  • the sweet smell of incense and tiny offerings that show up before most doors or walkways.
  • the low, guttural mooing of the cows with giant bells around their necks.
  • the assortment of flying bugs some bedazzling with colorful, sparkling wings and others just larger than I have ever seen before.
  • houses with open walls that get transformed in the evening to a closed in space with the pull of a curtain.
  • the frogs that take up residence in the bathrooms or guarding the end of  our bed.
  • the offer of a 100 cab, scooter rides if you are merely standing on the side of the road.
  • the vibrant color of fruit smoothies that rival any modern painting
  • the intricate carvings in wood and stone that are done with a hammer by the roadside
  • the absolute kindness of most people who wish to see you well.

Canyon warning the rabbits they may become pets or someone’s dinner.

Nothing like seeing a structure that is over 600 years old when your own country’s european settlement history started after this temple was built.

My new favorite Pringles flavor?

Doorway to our current bedroom.

Boys paying respects by wearing a sarong and really looking good while doing it!

Night food market.

Grilling the meat and using the fan to bring in the customers as well as spread the smoke.

Kelvin in his element with the cutest photo bomber in the back!

Tenenungan Waterfalls

Reading Kindles while waiting for a ride.

 

Family photo

A huge shout out to our friends Robyn and Mark who hosted us a couple times in Australia. We want them to know we so appreciate them!! Happy Wedding next month!

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A Lush, Green Paradise, a 15 Year Anniversary and 20 things I have noticed.

We have arrived in our first country during our round the world journey where English is not the mother tongue. Even more than that, the surroundings are unlike any we would encounter in our home in Oregon.

We had a few hiccups to get us here. I spent so much time sorting out the information about the visas I missed that tiny line about how you must have a proven departure plan before they will even let you on the plane.

So, we were at the Brisbane airport Jetstar check in counter (for the first time) and I hurriedly bought four tickets on a ferry to Singapore. I was punching the details of all our passports into my iPhone screen hoping that the credit card I am using would work to buy the tickets. And what’s more, that we will be able to use them.

The port is a place about 1000 miles from where we were staying but, it IS in Indonesia! Thanks so much to the airline representative who helped me do this rather than be forced to buy another airline ticket. Times four!

Earlier, we had already experienced not being picked up by our pre-scheduled Uber ride and frantically had to book another taxi to get us to the airport. I dislike that kind of scramble to the airport.

While we were checking into our flight (after I bought my ferry tickets) they had a lock down at the JetStar check-in counter. I felt like we were at a cooking contest as they yelled out for everyone to step away and hands up from the computers.

For several tense minutes, we all stood around and scrolled through our phones to see if there was some new information about Mt. Agung, the aged volcano currently smoking in Bali. Nothing. Just a false alarm and after a short while we all got ticketed and sent to the gate. The duty free gin never looked better!

It was about a 5 and a half hour flight and the pilot said he was getting updates on the volcano every five minutes and we would ‘act accordingly’. No sure what that means but, okay. He’s in charge.

Onward, a flight with some movie watching and an occasional peek out into the darkness with the hope to see a glimpse of the magical land we were winging toward.

We arrived in Bali and the humidity hugged us like a damp sweatshirt. Wandering through the airport to the immigration hall that had ceilings about four stories high I knew we had arrived.

My Dragon Fruit Smoothie

A friend arranged a pick up (thank you Drew!) and we were mesmerized by the steady of stream of motorbikes that swarmed around us as we motored down the narrowest of roads in the dark. It was like being with a bunch of ants. You just went with the flow.

Asking for prayers for the people in evacuation camps from the Mt. Agung volcano watch area

The next day we headed up to Ubud, known for its rice patty fields, cultural dances and, most recently, the popularly of Eat, Pray, Love. And currently, a spat of downpours that wipe the humidity from the air and feed the rice.

In Bali, tourism accounts for about a third of the economy so, there is always someone to help you with your questions, desires or plans. That is certainly the case in Ubud.

We are staying at a place I found on Airbnb as I wanted to have something set for the celebration of our 15 years of marriage! Whoo-hoo! This home is a dream, it feels palatial. It was a splurge to our budget at $42 a night. 

So much swimming around my head. More to process and share.

Here’s my my list of 20 things I have noticed after arriving in Bali in the first day and a half.

Three Little Monkeys Sitting on a Bench.

 

 

 

20 things I have noticed since arriving in Bali.

1- There are scooters everywhere and they hold such a variety of people carrying a multitude of things.
2- A rice field walk with Drew was awe-inspiring. We saw people working, rice-growing, ducks, giant spiders.
3- The spiders can be very, very, very big. With bodies as big as a hummingbird.
4-People are very, kind and helpful.
5- The roads are very narrow and have various surfaces, rarely a sidewalk and gaping holes about every 25 feet. Makes for an interesting stroll.
6- It is very humid and the rain comes in downpours.
7- Butterflies, moths, are frequently flying around. They are black, blue and many colors.
8- The beds come with mosquito netting and it looks so romantic.
9- People carry loads on their heads to free up their hands.
10-Geckos, lizards are all over the place. We counted 24 outside our place last night.
11- Ducks can be pets and hang out in the rice patties during the day and get walked home at night by following a flag on a pole.
12- Our place has a little pool and it is delightful.
13- The dollar to Rupiah exchange is 13,435. So you can feel like a millionaire when things cost 60,000 Rupiah and you can buy it with ease. That is the going cost of all four of us getting a ride to the center of town, equivalent of about $4.45.
14-It is hard to figure our what everything costs with such big numbers.
15-There are offerings nearly everywhere for most everyday activities. You find these beautifully folded offerings and incense in the most delightful places.
16-If you order Western food it will look differently than you expect.
17- It is really quiet when you get away from the roads.
18 – There are chickens everywhere. They are like wild mice (aka rats).
19-Alcohol is rather expensive.
20-You need to drink bottled water. Even to brush your teeth.

More to come. We will be here for at least two more weeks. More adventures to be had. More plans to be made. Let’s hope that volcano behaves.

Family Commute

Cooking oil for sale at grocery. Makes a lot more sense to take it home and put it in your own container.

Local boys using a fish to fish.

A Royal Bathroom

Happy, jet lagged boys in a field.