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April 2018

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Hamburg – A Beatles and Pretzel Tasting Sojourn

Sol: 250 now…a look at our trip to Hamburg….

Rathaus of Hamburg

What my children say I say much of the time.

We left Denmark and traveled by train and ferry to Germany for a couple days as a birthday trip for Kelvin. We were on our way to visit friends in Belgium and we decided that a little foray into Germany would be a nice way to celebrate Kelvin’s day. 

We arrived in Hamburg in the evening and clunked our way across several cobblestone streets to our hotel. We have been very economical and had not stayed at a hotel for the four of us in nearly six weeks.

It was a colorful neighborhood and on this brisk, cold night several of the natives offered us companionship (well, more Kelvin than the rest of us) and they looked cold too! At least not very well dressed for the weather. Perhaps the welcome crew?

Oakley in one of his favorite spaces.

Anyway, after Oakley spent the night in a closet (hey, who says kids have to have their reasons for being unique) we found our way to the City Hall and central part of the city. We took part in a walking tour of the city. It was one of those ‘free’ tours that you ‘tip’ at the end what you think it was worth. 

Our guide, originally from Pakistan, gave us an outstanding tour. His perspective as a non-native was illuminating. I learned things I never knew before or at the least expanded on my limited knowledge about Hamburg.

Did you know…

  • that Hamburg as one of the largest ports in Europe and has been for centuries,
  • Hamburg is the second largest city in Germany
  • that there is a long thriving Red Light District in Hamburg (hence the welcoming committees)
  • Hamburg is situated on the Elbe River (a common crossword clue for you Monday puzzlers)
  • that you can get the best sausages with a hunk of bread and a big dallop of mustard in nearly every neighborhood
  • that the Beatles played here over a two year period in 1960-1962 and did eight hour shows every night for weeks on end…..All this among other things we pondered.

What remains of St. Nicholas Church.

As we wandered around with our walking guide we learned another extraordinary fact was that Hamburg was bombed relentlessly during the 2nd world war. So much so that bombing raids in July 1943 by the Royal Air Force killed over 43,000 civilians and injuring 37,000 more with another million having been evacuated after the raids. It virtually destroyed the city. 

Hamburg is also home to Tesch and Stabenow, the company that invented and produced the gas Zyklon B used in the concentration camps. The owner of the company (Bruno Tesch) was arrested a war criminal, tried and executed after the war in the city. The building of his company has a memorial to acknowledge their role in the war. Bruno tried to deny responsibility for his role but, it came out that he is the one that suggested it to the Hitler and his team. 

Anyway, like the rest of us…Hamburg is much more than it’s worst story and we did find this city to be delightful. Even though many buildings were destroyed there were a lot of unique structures to explore.

Walking around Hamburg one can’t help but notice the enormous port still very much in place and very active. The river Elbe is broad and from a vantage point above you get the idea of how vast it really can be.

The Elbphilharmonie

A new building opened in January of 2017 called the Elbphilharmonie. This building which is one of the largest and acoustically advanced concert halls in the world, came with a pretty price tag that cost more than the budget allocated (don’t they all) so, it is free to visit for all Germans since their taxes covered all the extra cost.

The beginning budget was 241 million Euros and it ended up being 789 million Euros (that is nearly a billion US dollars for anyone keeping track. It is a marvel to visit and gaze out over the Elbe River. 

View from the Elbphilharmonie

We spent a scant 48 hours here before heading to visit friends in Belgium. It was delightful and rewarding. Happy Belated Birthday Kelvin! We made sure he got some German beer while he was conducting his own German pretzel tastings around the city. 

Again, thanks for reading and following along.

One of the love bridges.

The Chilihaus – Expressionistic Architecture from the 1920s.

Coffee denmark family travel home schooling House Sitting Hygge kids travel learning Legos mom blog round the world travel travel travel blog Trusted Housesitters world schooling

Danish Hygge and What We Learned in Being Calm and Cozy

When we arrived in Denmark for our three-week plus house and pet sit, we were a bit more worn out than we had imagined. The farm was the home to a couple who taught us a lot about Danish Hygge. One who worked part-time as a butcher and the other a foot and physical therapy (not to be mixed!). Their farm-house was nearly 140 years old, had two floors and easily six bedrooms. Wonderous views from each direction through windows and skylights showed us the ever-changing sky. 

Our charges were one cat named Merlot who brought gifts of hard-fought birds and mice and a three-year old fluffy, playful Irish Terrier named Rusty who exhibited the habits of the cutest cartoon dog you could imagine. 

Additionally, we cared for over a dozen chickens including five roosters, three of which became dinner…more on that later. 

When we landed after a literal round the globe journey lasting five days I fell ill with the Danish flu. Or at least the flu that I heard was running around Europe and the rest of the Western world.

For the next two weeks I struggled with fevers, malaise as well as a heavy chest cold. Of all the places to fall ill, this warm home proved to be very soothing recovery haven indeed. I was exceedingly grateful for this space.  I went to a Danish Doctor to see what I should do to help feel better. I asked for something akin to Nyquil. This may have been the first time in my life I wanted Nyquil. He looked up it up online and said the Danes don’t have anything like that but, recommended that I go drink tea, rest and watch Netflix. The modern Hygge.

After months of being in tropical weather and convinced we would not have a ‘regular’ winter we were treated to several winter storms, snow flurries and downright blizzards. We were overjoyed to make snowmen, slide on some ice and have snowball fights. I was more an observer but, we all very much enjoyed it. 

The kitchen we were occupying had all the supplies one (mainly my husband) would need to create sumptuous home cooked meals. Kelvin was in his element as he made stews, soups, roast chickens, cassoulets, braised meats and salads all washed down with hearty wines and cold, clear water.

We consumed cup after cup of coffee or tea several times a day and often pared them with Danish baked goods found in neighboring villages. We had farm fresh eggs (up to 12 a day!) as well as dark, thick bread that after toasted only needed a smear of butter to become a slice of heaven. 

I now know why Danes are known for their baked goods. The danishes we have in the States are a very poor representation of what the Danes actually make. When we made our way into the nearby town of Svendborg we inevitably visited Brod – A Danish Baking Studio which quickly became our new haunt.

Kelvin make plans with Ib (our host) to ‘take care of’ three chickens that were harassing many of the hens in the pen. He made a list to prepare for the slaughter and to process the meat.

I found this list and had to double take as Kelvin had forgotten the ‘e’ on humane as I read his list that looked like a serial killer prep list. Maybe too many Law and Order episodes from my past? In any case, the whole event was another life skill world school moment for the boys. 

We had been away from a fully supplied kitchen and we relished in having the ability to make breakfast, lunch and dinner on site, warm ourselves by the fireside while wearing the handmade wooly socks made by our host. Can you say Hygge? Ib and Ann offered up all their coats, boots, gloves, hats, scarves (even a Gryffindor one much to Oakley’s delight) and overalls as well as their car to supply us with the tools to journey around the property and the Island of Fyn. 

We did make a couple of excursions to round out our Danish experience. We had whimsical world school day in Odense, the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen and followed big red foot prints on the cobble stones to trace his roots around town. All while enjoying street art, warm drinks and Hans skill as a paper cut out artist.

The Princess and the Pea Bed

The boys were also invited to talk to a local school. We visited a class of 8-10 year olds as they were learning English. Canyon was very brave and presented at the beginning of class and conducted questions in his forward fashion. We continued to experience a humble awareness of the language aptitude of the Danes. Most people already knowing more than two languages by the age of 10 years old. 

No visit to Denmark would be complete without involvement in a Lego activity. We went to the Lego House in Billund for a day of Lego. Billund is the birthplace of Lego. I was undoubtedly surprised to be so entertained. I knew the boys would be, however, I was childlike as I went room to room to see the interactive activities set up around Lego pieces. My favorite was a live Sim City-like interactive play of making a city. I had to work that evening so we regretfully had to leave before we were all ready to go. 

In the mainstream media, there has been a liberal use of the term Hygge. Admittedly, I did not know about this term until I arrived but, a friend commented on our experience and said it looked very Hygge. It is hard to translate into English as we don’t have an exact equivalent. 

I found this New Yorker article  Hygge – A form of Cozy which helped inform my experience. We found this word to be a true representation of our experience.

We found our experiences steeped in warm, cozy, pleasant surroundings and, at times, lit in a low-light glow all while enjoying simple pleasures such as a tasty cup of coffee while watching the snow fall from a fire warmed room. I dug into crosswords, some books, cozy blankets and sweet Danish bread after walking Rusty in the brisk, clean air. It did feel like a calming elixir. 

Our experience with the Danes as a people was also warming. They won’t walk up to you to introduce themselves in grocery store, however, once introduced they proved to be some of the warmest, friendliest people I’ve ever met.

The daughter of our host, Line, brought food and family over for an afternoon of Hygglick activities including cuddling the pets and playing chess all while eating homemade Brunsviger, a kind of celebratory brown sugar bread, liver paste, cheese, chocolate for bread slices and endless cups of tea and coffee.

Line also provided Kelvin and I with our first night and honestly, our first several hour stretch while awake as she took care of the boys and sent us off on a night alone (gasp!) in a nearby hotel. The first time in 200 days which we had a night of sleep and a hot meal without the kids with us. We barely knew what to do but, found ourselves happily experiencing Hygge with some tasty beer and snacks at a pub and a super snooze in a cozy bed.

Our hosts came back and we stayed on for a few days to celebrate Kelvin’s birthday with them. Some alcohol was consumed and we only had to totter upstairs and curl up in extra fluffy duvets. They were kind, generous and very pleasant.

So, we wrapped up our time in Denmark a bit heavier around the waist but, happily rested and well connected with our new friends as we left feeling like family. 

Line and various drinks for a Danish dinner party.

Rusty and very cold boys at the Cold War Museum

Winter!

Street Art and Oakley in Odense

How to choose a flavor of a lollypop?

Hans Christian Anderson

My Lego House Photo