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18 Thailand Observations and the Lessons Aren’t Over Yet!

Sol: 183

We have left Thailand, however, we spent a lot of time there and our memories are full of colorful images. Our time took us to the Gulf of Thailand and to the Northern mountains. The people were very helpful and, as they say, it is a smiling culture. You find a lot of smiles.

A selection of 18 things we noticed while in Thailand. Some of these observances happen in other SE Asian countries, however, they are very Thai in their own way too. Enjoy.

A google search without my VPN on.

1- SIRI confusing the Thai street names. Driving with SIRI is hilarious and annoying at the same time. Because we are using an English language version. Siri would often just opt out in pronouncing names. So, you would be told to, ‘Turn left on ____ in 200 meters’. Or try a Google Search without using a VPN in an English speaking country.

2 – Men working on construction wear face coverings that look like bank robber masks. It was startling to see at first and then the idea of how incredibility hot it has to be in those masks all day really struck me as well.

3 – It is Illegal to talk badly about the King in Thailand. Thailand just completed a year of mourning for their beloved King who passed in the autumn of 2016. The new King is his son and is not not quite as popular. The elder King was reknown for his kindness and the way he helped people in all corners of the country. He was in power for over 70 years.

PD with her spoonful of rice and a chili!

4 – Spicy means a whole different thing here. I thought I was one who liked spicy food. Eating Thai food in the States has always been a milder experience for me. 25 years ago I visited Thailand and I had clearly forgotten how incredibly spicy the food can be. Our friend PD in Chiang Mai would put chilis in her individual bites.

5  – Elephant is the National animal of Thailand. You probably knew that but, it is profoundly touching and incredible to see the tributes to Elephants in everyday life including temples at the side of the road

6 – The National Anthem plays twice a day at 8am and 6pm. The Thai people will literally stop in their tracks to pay homage to their country and their King. It is impressive and powerful to see a bustling train station stock still for the anthem. Also, there is often a loud speaker near you where ever you are to remind you that it is time to stand.Video of Bangkok Train Station at 8am

7 – The King’s name takes 24 seconds to say. If you are from an age and from the States you might remember a song you sang to remember all the States in the Union. In Thailand, they have an equivalent song to teach school kids on how to say the King’s name.

Also, Bangkok’s original name was so long it took 20 seconds to say as well and it got shortened. Otherwise, these would be very wordy maps! Have a listen above.

8 – There are geckos everywhere. This is pretty much anywhere in warm SE Asia but, I found them fascinating. I was also incredibly grateful for them as I knew they were eating some of the other insects that would normally be gnawing on us. To see more on this check out my husband Kelvin’s blog about all the insects we have seen at  Degrees of Kelvin PS. Read at your own risk.

9 – Everyone is on a phone or device. Even dental assistant while working on my son was watching her show while guiding the dental equipment. Also, little tiny kids will also have their parent’s phone in action. People often take their kids to work so, this seems to be the easiest form of distraction. We even had a Grab driver (like Uber) who had her 4 year old daughter in the front seat helping with directions.

Statues of passed on monks

10 – Shoes off before homes and some businesses. Take clean socks without holes or get used to flip flops because you will be taking your shoes on and off several times a day.

11 – Some monks are like rock stars. Meaning they are famous and honored and yet, they can sit still like a statue for hours. During one of visits to a Wat in Northern Thailand our friend PD said she got goosebumps because the Monk that started that Wat was there in person. We also saw some monks that were nearly indistinguishable from the statues next to them as they did not move for the entire time we were there. Many monks will have a likeness them made into a statue after they pass so they are always present.

12 – There is a mandatory monk service for all males in Thailand. The timing varies but, it is a family honor. Also, each male family member needs to ‘help’ family members pass on so, they will be made monks for hours or even days to help with this process. They can do this three times in their lives. If you have a girl heavy family. It is harder to do this as females cannot do this process. It is a great honor and responsibility.

13 – Street food is a normal everyday choice for everyday Thais. People eat on the streets or ‘out’ frequently for one if not two of their meals a day.

Here is a sampling of the delights.

Banana pancakes!!!

Sometimes the food will walk up and find you!

Packing up rice to go. Most to go orders are in these plastic bags tied together with a rubber band.

 

 

 

Pad Thai on the streets of Bangkok. I promise that beer was mine, not his!

Curry and vegetables.

Incredible fruits and vegetables at the market. I know that fruits will never taste the same when we return to the states. These tropical flavors were heavenly.

Pick your saute’ and they will grill it for you. Eight sticks of this cost about $2.50

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mini donuts for your morning commute!

 

14 – Thai tea and coffee are legendary and deservedly so. There are so many flavor combinations and the cup is pretty important too!

 

Sweet flavors are in high demand. So, if you want carmel corn in your iced coffee. You can have it!

15 – Train travel in Thailand is an amazing way to see the country and the overnight
trains are rather nice.

All the berths are ready for sleeping! Curtains into place.

Before the transitions to beds.

 

 

 

Day travel to the north.

16 – The 7/11 stores are the best place to buy whatever you need. I loved going through the aisles to see all the packages of goodies that you didn’t know you might need. As long you you’re not trying to buy alcohol before 11am or between 2-5pm (national law) you can buy nearly everything there. You can even buy toothpaste that is flavored ‘herb salt’. I kid you not!

17 – It is the year 2561 in Thailand! I mentioned this before but, wanted to share some photos showing how that date shows up. Amazing!

 

18 – There are some very imformative signs in Thailand to guide you.

 

These are some of the amazing things we learned while in Thailand. We have such gratitude for our rich experience there. To date, we spent more time in Thailand than any other country, over 50 days and everyone was truly royal. Thank you Thailand!

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Coffee DaNang Expectations family travel foodie Hanoi Ho Chi Minh Hoi An mom blog Parenting round the world travel travel travel blog Vietnam world schooling

20 Observations in Vietnam – Scooters, Coffee, Critters and More

Sol 109

Going into our fourth week in Vietnam. Arrived in Hanoi by an eighteen hour overnight train from Da Nang. We have found a place that is the nicest and most comfortable we have stayed in in awhile. The washer machine actually dries clothes too. We haven’t had that since Australia!

It’s the Christmas season and we are adjusting to being in a place that is not full of our usual holiday extras. I’ll write more about that later but, firstly I wanted to share some thoughts and observances I’ve had since arriving in this amazing country.

Things I have noticed in Vietnam. A random list.

1 – People selling things on their motorbike will have a recording      announcing what they are selling and will play it over and over while driving around. You can flag them down and buy whatever it is they have. Usually, it is some meal. The scooter may even have a glowing hot oven on the side.

2 – Vietnamese people really, really like kids. Our boys are smiled at and coddled over almost everywhere we go. Oakley being least likely to want attention does have some discomfort in this and for Canyon, it depends on his mood. Sometimes he laps it up. Other times, he gets exasperated. It must be similar to what it is like if you are a famous person in other cultures. They are consistently told they are ‘so handsome’! People (usually a woman) will drop whatever she is doing and come over to touch their cheeks.

3 – There is construction constantly going on somewhere. It never ends. Never, ever, ever.

4 – There are at least 30 different ways you can get your coffee. They certainly give Starbucks a run for their money.

5 – It is easy to forget this is a communist country but, remember when you see the political posters everywhere, very little advertising (except outside a local cafe) and handing over your passports every time you stay somewhere new.

6 – The Vietnam/American war was not that long ago and there are plenty of reminders of this intense history. Yet, for the Vietnamese it is a blip on their several 1000 year old history. There seems to be no hard feelings about the war.

7 – The beaches here are amazingly beautiful even in the rainy season.

8 – If it floods, we are told, ‘you just go to the 2nd floor’. Not a lot of worries about that here as it seems to happen a lot.

9 – The garbage/refuse system seems to be is that people just put their bag of rubbish on the street and someone will come along and pick it up. It seems randomly coordinated but, bags don’t stay long. And, as I cringingly found out, sometimes a rat will be getting his take on the trash as it sits there.

 

10 – The bread here is amazing and likely has to do with the French colonial influence. The mini baguette is a staple for many breakfasts with eggs and are sooooo airy inside and crunchy on the outside. Delightful.

11 – Scooter, motorcycles and mopeds are EVERYWHERE. People can carry almost anything on a scooter and the bikes are often driving right into people’s living rooms for the night for safe keeping.

12 – This is a tropical country so, you get to see some big, little critters. In the last days, we’ve had a cockroach in our flat (which Oakley terrifyingly mistook for a tarantula) and many, many in our train carriage, a super fat rat (my phobia) munching on our buildings refuse pile, the praying mantis that guarded our bathroom for a week and would leap on your feet when the water flowed (to have a drink?), beautiful butterflies, dragon flies and your requisite flies, ants and mosquitos that come around pretty frequently.

13 – The blend of traditional (straw hats, bicycles) to the high tech (smart phones everywhere, apps on tablets to order drinks or check you into your berth on the train) is fascinating to observe.

14 – If you want to buy something you will need to bargain for it. Even in the markets the granola bars or bottled water will change prices depending on who is working, what is going on with the weather.

15 – Massages in Vietnam are a whole body experience. The masseuse will literally climb onto your back and legs will use their feet, knees, elbows and hands to work out your kinks. It is not for the faint of heart and if you have any IT band issues consider them ‘worked on’ after they are done with you. You will be sore for days to come.

16 – You are strongly discouraged from any public display of affection with your loved ones. With parents to children it is okay but, a very, very big no no to kiss or canoodle in public.

17 – You will have to get boiled or bottled water for any tasks or thirst. Much like everywhere in we have encountered in SE Asia. You are not encouraged to drink from the tap. We are in the habit of going to the bathroom with a bottle of water to brush our teeth and if water is set on the table while we are out, the boys immediately ask what source it came from. Don’t take your clean, tap water for granted!

18 – You can get any item of clothing made in a couple of hours for a very reasonable price. The tailor work is impeccable and remarkable. You dream it, they will sew it.

19 – You can buy outdoor gear that would put REI and Sportsman Wearhouse to shame. I found the exact Osprey backpack I got for my birthday at the market and I cringed when I say that I paid 70% more for it in the States. Shoes, coats, backpacks are all really marked up when they leave the country.

20 – The confluence of religions here is notable. It is a communist country and we were told that if you have a religion you were discouraged to apply for a government job (or at least say you don’t have a religion). Yet, there are a number of Christian charities that operate cafes hiring people with disabilities. People practice any number of various religions including Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, Taoism, Confucianism to name a few.

I have many other observations to share and will but, first wanted to share these thoughts from my perch in Hanoi. Until soon. Be well and thanks for reading.

Bali Expectations family travel foodie kids travel marriage mom blog Parenting relationships rice fields round the world travel travel travel blog Ubud vulnerability world schooling

Our Bali Excursion is Winding Down, Our Life Long Love Affair is Just Beginning

Sol 61: Coming up on three weeks in Bali. We’ve had some highs and some lows. The awe at the constant beauty around us has not waned. It seems every time I look up I see something unique, amazing, delightful or a bit different and quirky.

The bargaining never stops.

New Kite Flying Friends

My husband is tallying a list of ‘things I have seen being carried on a scooter’ and it just about contains everything possible. I’ve seen tiny, tiny babies nestled between ma and pa, panes of glass being held aloft, piles of branches, sticks and grass, complete mini-stores where one might make a meal or sell you a plethora of snacks. All of this wheeling by you.

Dewi makes the best meals!

The places we have stayed have been varied from an estate/villa such as the place we are at now to a house in the middle of a more tattered neighborhood where our point woman was amazing. She arranged for our boys to fly kites with her sons and made the best Nasi Goreng.

Emade, our amazing driver from Ubud. Email him for driving at nyoman.wati72@gmail.com

We ended up leaving early though as we found a dead bird under our bed and a bird nest above our son’s bed in the thatched roof that was less than sanitary. Bird poo on your sheets and pillows? We had to draw the line somewhere. The host (whom we never met) told us by email ‘that is nature’ and I am inclined to think it is but, it doesn’t have to be on my son’s head.

Dinner on Jimbaran Beach.

We are getting more adaptive in the heat. I wouldn’t say more used to it. You can see why people have plunge pools to dip into and wash off the heat of the day.

Monkey back rubs at the Monkey Forest Sanctuary.

We can see Mt. Agung from our current house and she is still resting. We are grateful for this but, also are acutely aware that there are several thousand people still living away from their homes out of the evacuation zone in refugee camps. This is heart breaking and a struggle.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces

Our boys have adjusted to mom and dad being the guides/teachers for the interim.

They are adjusting and we are soaking up our last week here as Friday, we head to Malaysia

There are very typical Bali experiences I am committing to memory. I share 10 of them with you here.

  • the sweeping up of all the flowers that fell overnight with a broom made of palm leaves.
  • the sweet smell of incense and tiny offerings that show up before most doors or walkways.
  • the low, guttural mooing of the cows with giant bells around their necks.
  • the assortment of flying bugs some bedazzling with colorful, sparkling wings and others just larger than I have ever seen before.
  • houses with open walls that get transformed in the evening to a closed in space with the pull of a curtain.
  • the frogs that take up residence in the bathrooms or guarding the end of  our bed.
  • the offer of a 100 cab, scooter rides if you are merely standing on the side of the road.
  • the vibrant color of fruit smoothies that rival any modern painting
  • the intricate carvings in wood and stone that are done with a hammer by the roadside
  • the absolute kindness of most people who wish to see you well.

Canyon warning the rabbits they may become pets or someone’s dinner.

Nothing like seeing a structure that is over 600 years old when your own country’s european settlement history started after this temple was built.

My new favorite Pringles flavor?

Doorway to our current bedroom.

Boys paying respects by wearing a sarong and really looking good while doing it!

Night food market.

Grilling the meat and using the fan to bring in the customers as well as spread the smoke.

Kelvin in his element with the cutest photo bomber in the back!

Tenenungan Waterfalls

Reading Kindles while waiting for a ride.

 

Family photo

A huge shout out to our friends Robyn and Mark who hosted us a couple times in Australia. We want them to know we so appreciate them!! Happy Wedding next month!

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Before the Lemonade there is the Lemon

All of this travel and life planning is full of excitement, fear, anxiety, trepidation and wonder. However, all of this wouldn’t be happening but, for the fact that Kelvin is losing his job of 13 years. Today is the day that becomes an absolute reality.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

This morning he went in to grade the last group of students in the restaurant, yesterday having the last restaurant opening of the curriculum.

Kelvin has been working at Le Cordon Bleu (and previously known as Western Culinary Institute) as a chef instructor, primarily running the student restaurant called Technique, for over a decade.

We have had a lot of happy memories there, celebrating births, graduations, mourning loved ones, birthdays and just a good night with good food. Friends and family joining for amazing meals and bright-eyed students nervously applying their skills.

He taught the practical class where students would put all their newly honed skills to work in creating a live restaurant. Imagine opening a restaurant with new staff every six weeks. He has done it with pride and tenacity.

Five years ago we did the numbers of students he had taught after the restaurant closed to the public and then it was over 2200 students. Five years on it would make sense that number has multiplied. IMG_2030

We are sorry this chapter has come to a close. As most people do, we have chosen to make a new path out of the end of this one. We are grateful that Le Cordon Bleu has given us a lot of notice (18 months) and some help to send Kelvin on his way. We will miss the people, students, experiences and community.

I give a shout out to my very modest husband who has worked tirelessly and devotedly to make an impact student’s minds in the culinary world. He has an amazing mind for menu planning, restaurant management and price point evaluation and culinary insights and application.

I still get nervous from time to time to cook for him. Not because he is a harsh critic but, because he knows his stuff. He gets calls from family and friends for a bit of quick advice and is always modest and ready to help.

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Newborn Canyon and the Chefs

So, please tip your chef’s hat to Kelvin today. To ‘Chef Gurr’ as he has been called by thousands of students. After that celebratory drink after work come on home, hang up your apron and let’s get going on our new path.

We will be traveling the world and soaking up all the culinary delights along the way. Watch out world. Stay tuned to his space. Something amazing will pop up from his mind when set down again next year. Need a consultant anyone?