Cambodia faces. I keep thinking about the people of Cambodia. Visiting the country was a deeply intense experience. 
The people, the landscape, the resources and the kindness.
Our experience was intense because it was at the end part of our South East Asian time and we were starting to feel a bit weary on the road. We had been in Asia for nearly four months. We had battled some illnesses, sorted our daily plans and generally negotiated most of our purchases. 
I read once that you shouldn’t go to the hardest place of travel at the end of your journey because you’ll be too tired. Well, we didn’t know how tired we had become.
When we traveled for 27 hours on an overnight train from Northern Thailand and then a long border crossing day bus into Cambodia we discoved that we were a bit fatigued.
Kelvin was very sick and it was just about the hardest thing to do for him to be bounced around for hours on the road. We proped him with bottles of water and a promise of a clean, soft bed in the near future. 
The border crossing was hard. Really hard for our youngest boy Oakley. Poi Pot is a notorious border town and it knows it. When you cross the border from Thailand you have to go through three check points. Leaving Thailand, getting the visa for Cambodia and finally, passport control into Cambodia.
In between these stops one has to walk through what can only be described as throngs of people vying for your attention, your cash and your business. 
There are also beggars, ogglers and whatever you-havers. It can be pretty intense, especially if you are just over four feet tall and don’t look like a local.
The other factor of intensity has to do with how much poverty we experienced. This is a country that was at war not that long ago. There has been a lot of recovery but, there is still a lot to happen to convey 
consistency and stability.
We noticed that there are not the local systems set for gathering rubbish, consistent power and even noise ordinances. We can handle this but, it does feel rather tense when you combine all three, especially after a number of days.
Our first stay was at a farm outside Siem Reap and it was beautiful. It was also a journey to get there by tuk tuk. A bounce on bumpy dirt roads avoiding 
chickens, cows, roadside fires and potholes. An adventure in the journey.
From time to time, someone might blast out some music for a bit. It plays as your background music. On our last couple days at the farm there was a celebration at the neighbors. They started the music around 5:30am. For the next 12 hours, they continued to play the music so loudly that we had to stay in our room or wear ear plugs.
It was distorted over a speaker and was very intense. Our hosts said, it was a celebration for ‘old people’. I hope I get celebrated like that when I am old!
We were impressed by Angor Wat which is more than 17 miles around the perimeter of the main area. Maybe the words are ‘blown away’. I never realized how incredibly huge these ancient yet, active temples are. It was truly an awesome experience in every sense of the word.
We rode an overnight bus to Sihanoukville to stay in a place run by Russian women who have picked up and started over in Cambodia. It was clean and comfortable but, there was the undercurrent of the sex trade there. Women around for the ‘weekend girlfriend experience’ with Chinese and Indian businessmen.
Paying attention to the talk and transactions it was apparent 
and it was a bit depressing. These men were on a business trip having the ‘bonus’ of the company of local women. It is hard to wrestle with as I can only imagine this transaction might benefit their family but, it was hard to blithely witness.
The Cambodian coast is full of people trying to make a living. Wanting to fulfill your every need. Do you need your nails trimmed? Do you need your legs shaved? Do you need a snack? Do you need a drink? Do you need a new wrap for the sun? Any of these issues or perhaps something you had no idea you were in need of. It is hard to say no but, also hard if you say yes as all others will think you are game for trade.
We then traveled to a nearby island. Our boat left from the Royal Pier. 
While waiting for our boat we saw the most basic toilet and an ice man the likes of Hans from Frozen loading ice blocks for the food establishments tourists would frequent. On our island that has no roads only scooters, wagons or good ol’ elbow grease carry your bags, supplies and goods.
Our experience was on the Island of Koh Rong. We stayed in a bungalow on a beach. You could walk to a nearby village but, the beaches were cleanest at our place where locals would comb the sand twice a day to pick up stray litter that washed ashore. I became even more aware of how important it is to recycle in our everyday life as plastics showed up on the hour. It is hard to imagine what an impact we might have on the environment when you are picking through plastic pieces while walking into the water.
The most magical experience was going out on a fishing boat to fish with tin cans and fishing twine and drinking beer while the sun is setting. Then speeding toward the starry darkness in the early night to nearly pitch black spot and encouraged to jump off the end of that boat into the inky, warm waters. The second you apprehensively splash into the water you see sparks that rival any telling of Peter Pan you have experienced in your lifetime.
Small sparks of light explode around your fingers and they comb through the warm water. It is magic. It is mind-blowing. Activation of phosphorus plankton is the scientific explanation but, I still call it magic. Because the secondary light is so minimal it is stunning. This close to the equator the sun sets so quickly too. You are in darkness in less time than it takes to drain a local can of beer.
These sparks of beauty are quite possibility one of the most amazing, organic experiences I have ever had in my life. It is like creating magic with your limbs as they comb through the warm waters.
Our youngest son Oakley was not a fan of not being able to see or hear us except for the gasps of amazement. He was unsure of our safety (it was fine) and our whereabouts, off in the dark waters off the end of a wooden fishing boat. I tried very hard to imprint that experience in my mind. It as truly magical. One of the top experiences in my life.
The rest of the days on the island were restful yet, imprinted with the awareness that so many locals nearby were living on so little. It is an odd equation. Do you help by being a tourist?
We returned to Sihanoukville and spent four days soaking up the hospitality of a clean, comfortable hotel. Ending our time in South East Asia taught me that I am a creature that seeks comfort of what many westerners seek. Continuity of accessibility of water, cleanliness 
and comfort. I had a topsy belly for many a day and it wasn’t until our trip around to Western Europe that I settled again.
We took another 24 hours to take two long buses back to Bangkok to prepare for the long journey to Western Europe. That is the subject of another story. Six countries in six days but, for now I give gratitude.
I am incredibly grateful for this amazing experience. I am so curious to see what our boys will recall from these colorful, intense, filled days and nights.
I thank Cambodia for its friendliness, authentic willingness to support and care for its visitors and for all their resilience to the cost of war. The echos of which still can be heard as we wandered these dusty, beautiful lanes. Thank you Cambodia.
How one buys petrol for your scooter or car.
Getting laundry back.
Someone offering to take care of all your needs. Even the ones you didn’t know you had!
A man and his chicken.
The neighbor kids over to play at the farm in Siem Reap.
My ‘office’ on a work day.
A monk on a stroll and part of Angkor Wat
There is little use of helmets here.
One of the many temples in Angkor Wat
Because we are using an English language version. Siri would often just opt out in pronouncing names. So, you would be told to, ‘Turn left on ____ in 200 meters’. Or try a Google Search without using a VPN in an English speaking country.
The elder King was reknown for his kindness and the way he helped people in all corners of the country. He was in power for over 70 years.
Elephants in everyday life including temples at the side of the road
9 – Everyone is on a phone or device. Even dental assistant while working on my son was watching her show while guiding the dental equipment. Also, little tiny kids will also have their parent’s phone in action. People often take their kids to work so, this seems to be the easiest form of distraction. We even had a Grab driver (like Uber) who had her 4 year old daughter in the front seat helping with directions.
During one of visits to a Wat in Northern Thailand our friend PD said she got goosebumps because the Monk that started that Wat was there in person. We also saw some monks that were nearly indistinguishable from the statues next to them as they did not move for the entire time we were there. Many monks will have a likeness them made into a statue after they pass so they are always present.
education of our kids. I was really, really concerned that we would mess them up or get them really behind. I’ve expressed this on this blog and the sentiment takes up entirely too much space in my head.
Then add in the schooling and it is a whole new role. Yes, we have been teaching them since birth but, the structured approach of making sure the boys are ‘on track’ has been an interesting one.
With Kelvin and I, it doesn’t always work out as we are the only adults around to care for the kids but, that it is another post altogether.
Oakley’ Stats for 2017
I had been struggling with some physical ailments (back pain, sleep issues, digestive challenges) Then I got pretty ill. Headache, fever, chills, throat pain. You know that feeling that you’ve swallowed broken glass? I was there. I was going through Ricolas like cigarettes for a heavy smoker.
We landed in Bangkok. Nothing like a city of over 8 million, humidity, a smaller hostel room for four to emphasize your discomfort. For our entire time in Bangkok’s Chinatown (where our hostel was) I saw the inside of a hospital (twice) and a 7/11 (they are everywhere in SE Asia) to get supplies.
I gotta throw out the biggest kudos to 
luxorious and grounding.
We are in a beautiful place in warm weather. The dream of many folks, especially with all those winter storms happening in the States at the moment. Yet, I am feeling a bit rudderless. I think this is the longest place we have stayed in the last 4+ months of travel.
I think we pulled it off as we were able to find strands of Twinkly lights to put up where we were, found a Star Wars Lego Advent calendar which can do wonders for little boys psyches. We even found a 5 ft plastic tree for $10. 
A bargain!
You even get an ice drink made from ice and get to gleefully throw it against an ice wall as you depart. How very satisfying!
We spent about 25 minutes inside (they have a requisite three minute acclimation period going in and out of each side). Many people spent more time in the acclimation room than in the actual ice room.
It is completely different when you cannot leave your kids by themselves. Kelvin and I haven’t had awake time alone in months, especially in daylight. 
I am enjoying not thinking about when we eat next, what to do next, thinking about how everyone might react to the next choice.
announcing what they are selling and will play it over and over while driving around. You can flag them down and buy whatever it is they have. Usually, it is some meal. The scooter may even have a glowing hot oven on the side.
They are consistently told they are ‘so handsome’! People (usually a woman) will drop whatever she is doing and come over to touch their cheeks.
somewhere. It never ends. Never, ever, ever.
They certainly give Starbucks a run for their money.
country but, remember when you see the political posters everywhere, very little advertising (except outside a local cafe) and handing over your passports every time you stay somewhere new.
plenty of reminders of this intense history. Yet, for the Vietnamese it is a blip on their several 1000 year old history. There seems to be no hard feelings about the war.
the rainy season.
I cringingly found out, sometimes a rat will be getting his take on the trash as it sits there.
The mini baguette is a staple for 
many breakfasts with eggs and are sooooo airy inside and crunchy on the outside. Delightful.
mistook for a tarantula) and many, many in our train carriage, a super fat rat (my phobia) munching on our buildings refuse pile, the praying mantis that guarded our bathroom for a week and would leap on your feet when the water flowed (to have a drink?), beautiful butterflies, dragon flies and your requisite flies, ants and mosquitos that come around pretty frequently.
(smart phones everywhere, apps on tablets to order drinks or check you into your berth on the train) is fascinating to observe.
Even in the markets the granola bars or bottled water will change prices depending on who is working, what is going on with the weather.
with your loved ones. With parents to children it is okay but, a very, very big no no to kiss or canoodle in public.
to drink from the tap. We are in the habit of going to the bathroom with a bottle of water to brush our teeth and if water is set on the table while we are out, the boys immediately ask what source it came from. Don’t take your clean, tap water for granted!
The tailor work is impeccable and remarkable. You dream it, they will sew it.
Shoes, coats, backpacks are all really marked up when they leave the country.
Yet, there are a number of Christian charities that operate cafes hiring people with disabilities. People practice any number of various religions including Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, Taoism, Confucianism to name a few.
We decided to stay at the Legoland Hotel which has themed rooms with scavenger hunts, Lego characters walking around, life-size Lego mini figures, characters walking around and LEGOS everywhere to play with. Big blocks and little blocks.
It was so sweet to see joy on so many faces. Not just ours but, the plenitude of families from all over. There were families there from India, China, and all over SE Asia. We were definitely the minority as we would nod hello to another ‘Western” family from time to time.
French Pastries with Chinese Congee porridge with dried fish on top? Or a traditionally poured spiced chai, watermelon juice, white coffee or full cream milk?
Asia are constructed to impressive, minute detail. Even the scooter accidents with media and police presence on the street. I could have spent hours here. It was super hot so, we melted as we perused even with the welcome mister machines nearby.
A BALANCE OF TRAVEL AND FAMILY 
So, we were at the Brisbane airport Jetstar check in counter (for the first time) and I hurriedly bought four tickets on a ferry to Singapore. I was punching the details of all our passports into my iPhone screen hoping that the credit card I am using would work to buy the tickets. And what’s more, that we will be able to use them.
In Bali, tourism accounts for about a third of the economy so, there is always someone to help you with your questions, desires or plans. That is certainly the case in Ubud.
amusement park of 
This is out of the ordinary for us but, one turning 10 is a pretty big deal too.
For an eight year old and newly minted ten-year old it was the ‘bees knees’. My words, not theirs. Theirs included ‘This is sick!’ and ‘What the ‘bleep’ (yes, they say actual word bleep).
Which was good as Oakley had a fever the first day and he and I hung out at the house with the dogs for the day while Kelvin and Canyon adventured.
Southern Hemisphere. It was a great way to get some perspective when getting ready to leave an area.
Any lover of indie rock from the 90s might know what I am taking about.
It makes you feel that you are really on the long haul. Then there are the serious but, somehow seemly cute signs warning
you of Kangaroos and Koala bear crossings.
magic of 
discussions of favorite candy bars and breakfast foods while swimming and diving for Australian coins. We were kindly and generously served Australian wines and given some great insights of places to go and very kind inquiries of our travels. Thanks Fiona and Tony!!
at times. It is hard to see him sad and we work to help.
are not profit putting their earnings back into research which they were conducting while we where onboard. We saw an amazing array of whales, mommas, escorts and babies, who seemed to be just flirting with our boat all afternoon doing all the activity described on the phamplet. Even our guides seemed to be impressed with the activity.
We have seen people laying out high teas complete with champagne and several tiered cake trays, hot plates with kettles and a ‘civilized’ spread that would challenge most high-end dinners out. These folks know how to enjoy the out-of-doors!
