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Our Journey – Five Countries in Five Days

Sol: 180 by the time we landed in the fifth country.

We travelled through five countries in five days. Like many a parenting moments I’ve had over the last eight months, I never thought I’d say that statement.

This is a log of our adventure inlike I thought we’d ever take. We travelled through five countries in five days. These are our adventures. I document the countries visited, modes of transportation taken, jet lag experienced, sustainance obtained and currencies used. I start on day one of movement on our journey and continues through six days.

IMG_3062.jpgDay One, Tuesday: We woke up in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. IMG_3060.jpgWe had been staying at a nicer hotel as we had been traveling hard for a while. We decided to let ourselves stay in a place a bit nicer than our normal choices. Meaning, we had predictable hot water and the beds were blessedly soft and fluffed with clean duvets. We had some more room and there were not as many unpredictable bugs visiting us.

We had a late check out and lounged around outside on the warm grass and I read Harry Potter The Goblet of Fire aloud to the boys as we drank in the warm sunshine, not really fullsizeoutput_c5a8knowing it would be nearly the last of our tropical weather. fullsizeoutput_c58dWe got a ride in a van to the bus terminal which doubled as a cafe’ on the side of the road. Our bus was leaving from Sihanoukville at 8:30pm. The sun was down as we climbed onboard our overnight bus to Siem Reap.

Our bus, called the Giant Ibis, was actually very comfortable as we were able to lay down in little slots the size of a full bed. The bus had a toilet, plugs for electronics, a bottle of water for each of us and WiFi. fullsizeoutput_c5aaFor about $25 a person it was not a bad way to travel North through Cambodia in the dead of night.

Day Two, Wednesday: We arrived in Siem Reap, Cambodia around 6am passing the ghostly outlines of Angkor Wat near the bus station. As the fog lifted we sorted a Tuk Tuk to the next bus station and we met our friend from our earlier stay in Siem Reap.IMG_3115

At this bus station Kelvin sought out a cup of coffee, an a pile of bananas for less than a dollar on that dusty road. We stayed in the station which was likley someone’s house in the not too distant past waiting for the bus to be ready for departure as the staff washed themselves in the station bathroom.

IMG_3110We departed at 8:30am for Bangkok, Thailand. This bus goes through the notorious Poi Pot border crossing from Cambodia into Thailand. The border crossing is a bit easier this way as we didn’t have to get a visa before going through passport control. However, it is still an assault on the senses and having sensory sensitive kids it was especially so.KLZZpSxjT0KftXO142EgsQ.jpg

Oakley does not do well with struggles of being too close to people he does not know, things being too loud, too odorous, too touchy and people really wanting to know more about him and us.

kZOiEtVOSuakF5zI8jLR5A.jpgIt was hard, sweaty and dusty but, we did it. Each stop from passport control to the next is outside in the city along camps of people with outstretched hands offering or asking us many things.

In the end, we adjusted through to the border to Thailand. cqA8tqRNK9Xjmixw99w.jpgWe dug out our the Thai Baht we had saved and bought fresh snacks. We were coming in on 19 hours of travel. The bus driver dropped us not far from the hotel we booked in Bangkok near the airport.

We tried to get an Uber ride but, it is illegal in Thailand so struggled with some of the limitiations. We eventually found a ride in the complimentarly hotel van we didn’t know was an option.

We arrived at the hotel at around 5pm. We took hot showers and some of us a hot soak as we had a bathtub! A luxury! We dropped to sleep after getting some food sent in from the hotel after Kelvin wandered around the neighborhood for a 7/11, the best place for supplies.

imageDay Three, Thursday: A rest day in Thailand. A good friend from back home Grace came to hang out with us for the afternoon. IMG_3137This is after Kelvin ended up cooking our eggs and breakfast for us at the restaurant as they were, seemingly, short on staff.

Grace is a Vietnamese American who has her incredible own story of how she came to the US as a five-year old via a refugee camp on a boat in the dark of night. Her story is not mine to tell but, she taught us a lot in our afternoon together. She was also the first person we knew that we have seen in months.

BJAEdHPXTT66DOwk9X4THgIt was the start of the Lunar New Year so many fireworks exploded through the night as we tried to sleep.fullsizeoutput_c599

Day Four, Friday: We woke EARLY at 4am to get to the Suvarnabhumi airport in Bangkok, Thailand. This was going to be the big push day. After spending the last of our baht on over priced coffees, we lined up for security at our gate.

fullsizeoutput_c592We flew from Bangkok, Thailand to Abu Dhabi, in the United Arab Emirates in seven hours on Etihad Airlines.Video from Airline Cameras

I count the United Arab Emirates which may be a stretch but, we were there! The desert stretching out to the end of the sea as we watched from the airplane cameras. IMG_3182

The airport had a few snack options, a chance to sit on a bronze camel and a long security check on every single electronic item we possessed. fullsizeoutput_c59dAll wiped down with tissues seeking nafarious substances. We had a short layover and then took off for London. Another seven hours in the air.

It was a truly round the world experience watching the map on the plane plot our course though time and space. I felt I should tune into Stephen Hawking a bit more.fullsizeoutput_c597

Video from Airplane cameras

The plane has these amazing cameras that show live footage from the bottom, the tail and front of the plane. An other worldly experience that had us marveling at how one to can go so far in such a span of time.

fB5luFVZSEmzBnKjqRqHOgOur plane held 496 passengers and 22 staff. Our row was ten seats across with two aisles and was a double-decker with a staircase and business class in what I read were actual beds. When we landed it felt like a barely a bump.wWGWiS00QueeZLgDLcIO8g

We landed in London, England. Scrambled for food, sim cards and British pounds. We took an Uber to our friend’s house and had the sticker shock of being back in one of the most expensive counties.

H8ZffcE7RduwaljTQ+sXUwOur ride from the airport cost more than seven days of accommodation in Cambodia. Jet lagged and chilly we counted the hours we were awake (24) and fell into the comfy and clean beds of our friends house was we were nuzzled by their two kitties.

Day Five, Saturday: We rested in London, England as we adapted to the time change as well as the weather. We were ill-equipped for the chilly winds blowing through the city although, we were delighted for a change.

We ended up going out for breakfast which was tasty yet, a shocking zap to our budget. We then wandered through charity shops looking for long pants, fleeces, gloves and other adjustments to our wardrobe.L8q9fm9ER96F7E06ME5oow

I took the Tube across town to have lunch with some friends while the boys played Legos with our friend’s collection. We had to have a traditional fish and chips for dinner while continuing to adjust our heads and sleep schedules.

g6TmxHQSRoCZIDBd6ULHXgDay Six, Saturday: We woke up before the sun to gather our belongs one more time and shuttled off to Luton Airport. We had an interesting ride through the fog gazing out at the hills reaching for green as we wheeled past.

At Luton, it was another exercise in airport check-ins as we eyed the automatic weapons of the police staff that patrolled the walkways.LFY+CKH4RgicDqsycKC%AQ

Wandering stores after check in, we bought sandwiches, trashy newspapers, chocolate, coffees and bags of crisps for our trip. Completly enjoying having options in English for the first time five months.

QGUg2pcSRySdcpa1hPp0GwAfter boarding a Ryan Jet flight by trudging up the stairs in the icy wind from the tarmac we bid goodbye to Britain for a while. We winged our way to Copenhagen, Denmark. We found our way to the train connections to bring us to the Danish village we were going to  stay.8Vw6zrHdSL+V%twT7wTbiA

We sorted the change in platforms after witnessing someone lingering too long as the efficient Danish train door closed exactly when it said it would on a passenger’s leg effectively shutting down the entire train for a while as emergency workers came to extract the passenger from their painful fate.

Z8wCr1yHR5S4Xoi791eycwWincing, we found our alternative train and trundled towards our destiny on the Island of Fyn to the town to Nyborg where our host was patiently waiting for us as we disembarked some nearly two hours later.

After nearly six months on the road and five months since we stayed with people that we knew beforehand, we were welcomed into the warm embrace of our Danish hosts in the village of Vestrup. We were truely treated like family.zKhzBzGdRlaj3iLUSwdROA

The evening felt like a homecoming even though none of us had met before. A large welcoming meal and several glasses of wine later I snuggled in an extra cozy duvet surrounded by our boys on the second floor of this 140 year old farm-house. It was lovely, calming and blissfully welcoming.

IMG_3308What followed was an amazing Danish farm experience. That will be documented on my next post.

As I drifted off, I could scarcely believe that we had, indeed, touched soil in six countries in six days ending up in another place to practice our round the world journey and world schooling for the boys.

As always, thanks for reading. Please share if you like!

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Cambodia, Land of Smiles, Dusty Lanes and Authentic Connections.

Cambodia faces. I keep thinking about the people of Cambodia. Visiting the country was a deeply intense experience. IMG_2024.jpgThe people, the landscape, the resources and the kindness.

Our experience was intense because it was at the end part of our South East Asian time and we were starting to feel a bit weary on the road. We had been in Asia for nearly four months. We had battled some illnesses, sorted our daily plans and generally negotiated most of our purchases. fullsizeoutput_c4c7I read once that you shouldn’t go to the hardest place of travel at the end of your journey because you’ll be too tired. Well, we didn’t know how tired we had become.

When we traveled for 27 hours on an overnight train from Northern Thailand and then a long border crossing day bus into Cambodia we discoved that we were a bit fatigued.

Kelvin was very sick and it was just about the hardest thing to do for him to be bounced around for hours on the road. We proped him with bottles of water and a promise of a clean, soft bed in the near future. IMG_1931.jpg

The border crossing was hard. Really hard for our youngest boy Oakley.  Poi Pot is a notorious border town and it knows it. When you cross the border from Thailand you have to go through three check points. Leaving Thailand, getting the visa for Cambodia and finally, passport control into Cambodia.

In between these stops one has to walk through what can only be described as throngs of people vying for your attention, your cash and your business. IMG_2006There are also beggars, ogglers and whatever you-havers. It can be pretty intense, especially if you are just over four feet tall and don’t look like a local.

The other factor of intensity has to do with how much poverty we experienced. This is a country that was at war not that long ago. There has been a lot of recovery but, there is still a lot to happen to convey IMG_1951.jpgconsistency and stability.

We noticed that there are not the local systems set for gathering rubbish, consistent power and even noise ordinances. We can handle this but, it does feel rather tense when you combine all three, especially after a number of days.

Our first stay was at a farm outside Siem Reap and it was beautiful. It was also a journey to get there by tuk tuk. A bounce on bumpy dirt roads avoiding IMG_2103.jpgchickens, cows, roadside fires and potholes. An adventure in the journey.

From time to time, someone might blast out some music for a bit. It plays as your background music. On our last couple days at the farm there was a celebration at the neighbors. They started the music around 5:30am. For the next 12 hours, they continued to play the music so loudly that we had to stay in our room or wear ear plugs.

It was distorted over a speaker and was very intense. Our hosts said, it was a celebration for ‘old people’. I hope I get celebrated like that when I am old!IMG_1943

We were impressed by Angor Wat which is more than 17 miles around the perimeter of the main area. Maybe the words are ‘blown away’. I never realized how incredibly huge these ancient yet, active temples are. It was truly an awesome experience in every sense of the word.

fullsizeoutput_c372We rode an overnight bus to Sihanoukville to stay in a place run by Russian women who have picked up and started over in Cambodia. It was clean and comfortable but, there was the undercurrent of the sex trade there. Women around for the ‘weekend girlfriend experience’ with Chinese and Indian businessmen.

Paying attention to the talk and transactions it was apparent fullsizeoutput_c4fband it was a bit depressing. These men were on a business trip having the ‘bonus’ of the company of local women. It is hard to wrestle with as I can only imagine this transaction might benefit their family but, it was hard to blithely witness.

fullsizeoutput_c4eaThe Cambodian coast is full of people trying to make a living. Wanting to fulfill your every need. Do you need your nails trimmed? Do you need your legs shaved? Do you need a snack? Do you need a drink? Do you need a new wrap for the sun? Any of these issues or perhaps something you had no idea you were in need of. It is hard to say no but, also hard if you say yes as all others will think you are game for trade.

We then traveled to a nearby island. Our boat left from the Royal Pier. fullsizeoutput_c4c4While waiting for our boat we saw the most basic toilet and an ice man the likes of Hans from Frozen loading ice blocks for the food establishments tourists would frequent. On our island that has no roads only scooters, wagons or good ol’ elbow grease carry your bags, supplies and goods.

fullsizeoutput_c486Our experience was on the Island of Koh Rong. We stayed in a bungalow on a beach. You could walk to a nearby village but, the beaches were cleanest at our place where locals would comb the sand twice a day to pick up stray litter that washed ashore. I became even more aware of how important it is to recycle in our everyday life as plastics showed up on the hour. It is hard to imagine what an impact we might have on the environment when you are picking through plastic pieces while walking into the water.IMG_2897-1.jpg

The most magical experience was going out on a fishing boat to fish with tin cans and fishing twine and drinking beer while the sun is setting. Then speeding toward the starry darkness in the early night to nearly pitch black spot and encouraged to jump off the end of that boat into the inky, warm waters. The second you apprehensively splash into the water you see sparks that rival any telling of Peter Pan you have experienced in your lifetime.

fullsizeoutput_c488Small sparks of light explode around your fingers and they comb through the warm water. It is magic. It is mind-blowing. Activation of phosphorus plankton is the scientific explanation but, I still call it magic. Because the secondary light is so minimal it is stunning. This close to the equator the sun sets so quickly too. You are in darkness in less time than it takes to drain a local can of beer.

These sparks of beauty are quite possibility one of the most amazing, organic experiences I have ever had in my life. It is like creating magic with your limbs as they comb through the warm waters.IMG_2828.jpg

Our youngest son Oakley was not a fan of not being able to see or hear us except for the gasps of amazement. He was unsure of our safety (it was fine) and our whereabouts, off in the dark waters off the end of a wooden fishing boat. I tried very hard to imprint that experience in my mind. It as truly magical. One of the top experiences in my life.

IMG_2844.jpgThe rest of the days on the island were restful yet, imprinted with the awareness that so many locals nearby were living on so little. It is an odd equation. Do you help by being a tourist?

We returned to Sihanoukville and spent four days soaking up the hospitality of a clean, comfortable hotel. Ending our time in South East Asia taught me that I am a creature that seeks comfort of what many westerners seek. Continuity of accessibility of water, cleanliness fullsizeoutput_c590and comfort. I had a topsy belly for many a day and it wasn’t until our trip around to Western Europe that I settled again.

We took another 24 hours to take two long buses back to Bangkok to prepare for the long journey to Western Europe. That is the subject of another story. Six countries in six days but, for now I give gratitude.

IMG_2859I am incredibly grateful for this amazing experience. I am so curious to see what our boys will recall from these colorful, intense, filled days and nights.

I thank Cambodia for its friendliness, authentic willingness to support and care for its visitors and for all their resilience to the cost of war. The echos of which still can be heard as we wandered these dusty, beautiful lanes. Thank you Cambodia.

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How one buys petrol for your scooter or car.

 

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Getting laundry back.

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Someone offering to take care of all your needs. Even the ones you didn’t know you had!

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A man and his chicken.

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The neighbor kids over to play at the farm in Siem Reap.

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My ‘office’ on a work day.

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A monk on a stroll and part of Angkor Wat

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There is little use of helmets here.

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One of the many temples in Angkor Wat

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Chiang Mai round the world travel Thailand

Umbrellas, Elephants, Waterfalls and Mountains – Thailand has our hearts.

Sol: 173 Looking back a bit. 

Feeling very, very lucky to have had such a magical experience in Thailand. We ended up staying nearly 50 days in this magical country. The trip to Chiang Mai was the icing on the cake.

IMG_0628Bangkok is the most popular place in the world for International Tourists so, it’s no fullsizeoutput_b4cfwonder that there are a zillion of blogs and suggestions of places to go there.

Many people go to Thailand to see Bangkok or the Beaches but, the north has many, many treasures that may get overlooked. Chiang Mai has this smaller town feel but, defiantly has a lot to offer in likes of food, entertainment and mind broadening day trips.

IMG_0910In our journey there we found joy in the Sticky Falls . It is an amazing water fall that you can climb up like a superhero thanks to the gripping limestone. Our friend PD (Moon) took us there and it gave a new meaning climbing mountains.

Getting there is half the fun. We visited an amazing temple Wat Ban Den .  IMG_0781Our host PD (her name is moon in Thai) was amazed to see the main monk there. She said she had goose bumps on her arm as if seeing a favorite movie star.

While we were there were able to take part in the Umbrella festival at Bo Sang. fullsizeoutput_bc05Delightful paper umbrellas were on display and joyously celebrated throughout the weekend. We were there for the afternoon and part of the Umbrella parade. Try riding your bike while holding an umbrella!fullsizeoutput_bcdf

We also visited some amazing creatures. Some rescued elephants in a local sanctuary. We learned it is not good to ride elephants as their spine cannot hold a human’s weight. So, we fed them, gave them mud baths then played in the water with them. IMG_1524-1.jpgPretty amazing experience. I can now say I have had my hand inside an elephants mouth. IMG_1454-1.jpgWhile feeding them many bananas. Pretty big tongue!

There is a lot of controversy about the elephants and how they are treated in Thailand. They are considered livestock so there are varying ways in which they are cared for. Being from the States we are familiar with controversy with zoos so, you may imagine the varied conversations here about elephants.

With some friends (Australian and Thai) we journeyed up to the top of Thailand to Doi Inthanon and it’s national park.fullsizeoutput_bed9  It stands over 8400 feet and it was blissfully cooler or the first time in weeks. fullsizeoutput_bf06I know that sounds a bit annoying to anyone who has been in the cold blasts that have been experienced in the States over the last weeks but, it was truly refreshing for us. It was also fascinating to see folks getting their selfies with the sign on top. This is a very serious business in Asia.

fullsizeoutput_bea0We also experienced some amazing waterfalls on the way back down.

The place we stayed was a string of townhouses with two others for rent and one housing the owners. fullsizeoutput_bf33We became fast friends with our hosts who are sisters. There are three and their names translate to Moon, Star and Sky.

They helped us see other places and find various sampling of Khao Soi, a northern Thailand dish that is now one of my favorite things in the world. fullsizeoutput_ba6fThis bowl of egg noodles with meat, spicy broth topped with lime, pickled cabbage and crispy noodles is quite seriously, a bowl for the soul. I am wondering if there is a food cart back in Portland that has it…otherwise, we need to build it.

The family hosted a block party our last night and we all shared dishes, drink and laughter as well as Canyon’s Magic Show. His newly honed skills kept the crowd cheering.

fullsizeoutput_bfd2Our last full day we awoke at 4am to get a ride then climb to the top of Doi Suthrup and the Temple on top that was first built in 1383. fullsizeoutput_c0a7Did you catch that? 1383….and it still operates today as a Monastery and has several temples to visit. After calling the boys class back in Portland at the bottom of the stairs, we climbed 309 stairs to the top and found ourselves with only three other people that weren’t monks there.

fullsizeoutput_c006After the sun came up, we saw loads and loads of buses and songthaew with visitors streaming out as we departed. I’m glad we had our quiet, peaceful visit.IMG_1785

As always, thanks for reading…we love sharing our stories and really do want to hear from you. Tell us about your thoughts and travels!

All the best,

Audrianna

 

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Not the kind of gang I want to be in!

 

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Thank you Vison and PD! You guys are the best!

 

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Canyon’s new job and our new friend Olivia!

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Oakley and his buddy Dean

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Thailand Holiday Rest and Recuperation

Sol: 134

We have been in Thailand for over three weeks. It’s a bit of a struggle these last days as its been hard travels in a way. Now, I am not complaining as I do know that what we are doing is amazing and I am incredibly grateful that we have been able to make this happen.

However, when you do something, even something amazing, after awhile it can lose a bit of it’s shine. This blog is all about the honesty of our travel and experiences. Today, I’m writing a bit about that.

The struggle really started in Vietnam. I really feel in love that country, however, it was hard travels at times. I had been struggling with some physical ailments (back pain, sleep issues, digestive challenges) Then I got pretty ill. Headache, fever, chills, throat pain. You know that feeling that you’ve swallowed broken glass? I was there. I was going through Ricolas like cigarettes for a heavy smoker.

We had to travel to Thailand as our Vietnamese visa was expiring and we had plane tickets. It is relatively easy and cheap to buy airline tickets in SE Asia but, they are also non-refundable and changeable if you buy them as cheaply as we had been. Then if you have four tickets, it is a larger cost. So, to Thailand we came.

We landed in Bangkok. Nothing like a city of over 8 million, humidity, a smaller hostel room for four to emphasize your discomfort. For our entire time in Bangkok’s Chinatown (where our hostel was) I saw the inside of a hospital (twice) and a 7/11 (they are everywhere in SE Asia) to get supplies.

Oakley came down with my flu and bronchitis a couple of days after arrival. Canyon and Kelvin running errands to arrange food and supplies and holding their breath when near to avoid our plague.

We came to Pattaya for our house sit which has positively saved us. I gotta throw out the biggest kudos to   Trusted Housesitters again as they have made this trip possible for us. We are taking care of the sweetest, mellowest dog I’ve ever met all while staying in a home, a real home with a big kitchen (great for chef husband) and two big bedrooms, living spaces and the added bonus of a swimming pool. Really, really luxorious and grounding.

And when we slow down other things often catch up to us. I have found that I am feeling a bit lonely and depressed as of late. The holidays are always a hard time for plenty of folks. For me this is no exception.

We are in a beautiful place in warm weather. The dream of many folks, especially with all those winter storms happening in the States at the moment. Yet, I am feeling a bit rudderless. I think this is the longest place we have stayed in the last 4+ months of travel.

I was really worried about making it a wondrous and memorable Holiday for the boys. Knowing they would be missing so many traditions and experiences. I think we pulled it off as we were able to find strands of Twinkly lights to put up where we were, found a Star Wars Lego Advent calendar which can do wonders for little boys psyches. We even found a 5 ft plastic tree for $10. A bargain!

Seeing the Christmas celebrations here in Asia is different as it is a lot about the decorations in public. The holiday trees, lights, reindeer and sometimes Santa but, rarely him. Also, I haven’t seen any nativity scenes anywhere.

We did manage to find the coldest place we could on Christmas Eve. Frost Magical Ice of Siam which consists of sand sculptures on the outside and a glorified meat locker on the inside. You walk and slide among ice sculptures. You even get an ice drink made from ice and get to gleefully throw it against an ice wall as you depart. How very satisfying!

The most entertaining part of that visit was watching locals shiver through the place in about a minute. We spent about 25 minutes inside (they have a requisite three minute acclimation period going in and out of each side). Many people spent more time in the acclimation room than in the actual ice room.

I am currently on a two day trip on my own. It is a little reprieve for my soul to have a bit of totally me time. You may not realize how much time you spend away from your family when people are going to work, school, playdates, babysitters, shopping or trips around the neighborhood.

It is completely different when you cannot leave your kids by themselves. Kelvin and I haven’t had awake time  alone in months, especially in daylight. I am enjoying not thinking about when we eat next, what to do next, thinking about how everyone might react to the next choice.

I am carefree for a couple days and loving the solitude. I’ll be be back soon and then we send Kelvin out for three days/two nights on a fishing trip. He too needs his recharge time. These are the Christmas presents we gave each other.

And so, now we are appreciating our place, our temporary home before we embark into the new year and the next travel adventures. Thanks for reading and stay tuned!

Happy Holidays! Happy 2018 or 2561 if you are following the Thailand calendar.

Check out the 31-12-61 reference. The Thai Calendar.

My favorite isle in the specialty store we found. So many kinds of fizzy water.

Wine from Oregon costing a princely price.

We got a flat tire and people showed up to help and really weren’t gonna let us fix it. Very, very kind. It takes a village and then there is Canyon reading his kindle in the background.

 

Would you like some meat for dinner?

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20 Observations in Vietnam – Scooters, Coffee, Critters and More

Sol 109

Going into our fourth week in Vietnam. Arrived in Hanoi by an eighteen hour overnight train from Da Nang. We have found a place that is the nicest and most comfortable we have stayed in in awhile. The washer machine actually dries clothes too. We haven’t had that since Australia!

It’s the Christmas season and we are adjusting to being in a place that is not full of our usual holiday extras. I’ll write more about that later but, firstly I wanted to share some thoughts and observances I’ve had since arriving in this amazing country.

Things I have noticed in Vietnam. A random list.

1 – People selling things on their motorbike will have a recording      announcing what they are selling and will play it over and over while driving around. You can flag them down and buy whatever it is they have. Usually, it is some meal. The scooter may even have a glowing hot oven on the side.

2 – Vietnamese people really, really like kids. Our boys are smiled at and coddled over almost everywhere we go. Oakley being least likely to want attention does have some discomfort in this and for Canyon, it depends on his mood. Sometimes he laps it up. Other times, he gets exasperated. It must be similar to what it is like if you are a famous person in other cultures. They are consistently told they are ‘so handsome’! People (usually a woman) will drop whatever she is doing and come over to touch their cheeks.

3 – There is construction constantly going on somewhere. It never ends. Never, ever, ever.

4 – There are at least 30 different ways you can get your coffee. They certainly give Starbucks a run for their money.

5 – It is easy to forget this is a communist country but, remember when you see the political posters everywhere, very little advertising (except outside a local cafe) and handing over your passports every time you stay somewhere new.

6 – The Vietnam/American war was not that long ago and there are plenty of reminders of this intense history. Yet, for the Vietnamese it is a blip on their several 1000 year old history. There seems to be no hard feelings about the war.

7 – The beaches here are amazingly beautiful even in the rainy season.

8 – If it floods, we are told, ‘you just go to the 2nd floor’. Not a lot of worries about that here as it seems to happen a lot.

9 – The garbage/refuse system seems to be is that people just put their bag of rubbish on the street and someone will come along and pick it up. It seems randomly coordinated but, bags don’t stay long. And, as I cringingly found out, sometimes a rat will be getting his take on the trash as it sits there.

 

10 – The bread here is amazing and likely has to do with the French colonial influence. The mini baguette is a staple for many breakfasts with eggs and are sooooo airy inside and crunchy on the outside. Delightful.

11 – Scooter, motorcycles and mopeds are EVERYWHERE. People can carry almost anything on a scooter and the bikes are often driving right into people’s living rooms for the night for safe keeping.

12 – This is a tropical country so, you get to see some big, little critters. In the last days, we’ve had a cockroach in our flat (which Oakley terrifyingly mistook for a tarantula) and many, many in our train carriage, a super fat rat (my phobia) munching on our buildings refuse pile, the praying mantis that guarded our bathroom for a week and would leap on your feet when the water flowed (to have a drink?), beautiful butterflies, dragon flies and your requisite flies, ants and mosquitos that come around pretty frequently.

13 – The blend of traditional (straw hats, bicycles) to the high tech (smart phones everywhere, apps on tablets to order drinks or check you into your berth on the train) is fascinating to observe.

14 – If you want to buy something you will need to bargain for it. Even in the markets the granola bars or bottled water will change prices depending on who is working, what is going on with the weather.

15 – Massages in Vietnam are a whole body experience. The masseuse will literally climb onto your back and legs will use their feet, knees, elbows and hands to work out your kinks. It is not for the faint of heart and if you have any IT band issues consider them ‘worked on’ after they are done with you. You will be sore for days to come.

16 – You are strongly discouraged from any public display of affection with your loved ones. With parents to children it is okay but, a very, very big no no to kiss or canoodle in public.

17 – You will have to get boiled or bottled water for any tasks or thirst. Much like everywhere in we have encountered in SE Asia. You are not encouraged to drink from the tap. We are in the habit of going to the bathroom with a bottle of water to brush our teeth and if water is set on the table while we are out, the boys immediately ask what source it came from. Don’t take your clean, tap water for granted!

18 – You can get any item of clothing made in a couple of hours for a very reasonable price. The tailor work is impeccable and remarkable. You dream it, they will sew it.

19 – You can buy outdoor gear that would put REI and Sportsman Wearhouse to shame. I found the exact Osprey backpack I got for my birthday at the market and I cringed when I say that I paid 70% more for it in the States. Shoes, coats, backpacks are all really marked up when they leave the country.

20 – The confluence of religions here is notable. It is a communist country and we were told that if you have a religion you were discouraged to apply for a government job (or at least say you don’t have a religion). Yet, there are a number of Christian charities that operate cafes hiring people with disabilities. People practice any number of various religions including Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, Taoism, Confucianism to name a few.

I have many other observations to share and will but, first wanted to share these thoughts from my perch in Hanoi. Until soon. Be well and thanks for reading.

parent memories round the world travel Singapore

Singapore Style in a Whirlwind 48 Hours

A whirlwind excursion in Singapore

To get a cheaper flight to Vietnam we traveled to Singapore to catch a cheaper option. I also wanted to visit this place that my parents had been to so many times over the decades as it holds a place of mystery and reverence for me.

Parent Memories

My Dad did a lot of business in Asia in the 1970s to the end of his life. At least once a year my parents would travel to Asia often for about a three-week period when they would visit Japan, China, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia and Taiwan among other places. Nancy Joy Memorial Show 2001.027In the 1990s, I worked for a short time in Hong Kong for a colleague of my Dad’s. It was an interesting time and experience.

Singapore always invokes a mix of west and east for me. Amazingly, I never got to travel in Asia with my mom and did go to Hong Kong once with my Dad. Being here now, I so ache for an experience of walking around with them if only for a day or a couple of hours. Both of my parents have passed and this trip is often a tip of a hat in their direction as they instilled the love to travel in me partly due to their extensive travel while my brothers and sister were growing up.

I do know, we have very different travel styles. My family and I are decidedly budget oriented. My Dad’s businesses had him ‘smoozing’ folks so, I think there were a lot more high-end hotels, banquet dinners and glasses of cognac.fullsizeoutput_a03a

For a decade, my mom built a part-time career writing about her travels and food. Her muse in her food column, frequently came from her travels with my Dad. She would travel around Asian cities on her own while my Dad was in meetings. I look back and think it had to be rather lonely at times. It is sometimes lonely being with your family in a place where you are the stranger in a strange land.

Strong memories stir as we wander around Singapore. I know my mom thought the world of the Raffles Hotel. We decided to go there for a Singapore Sling and look around. fullsizeoutput_a024While most of it is under re-construction, it held an air of prestige with high ceilings, white columns, giant billiard tables and support staff dressed as Raj royalty. It felt a  little rich for my blood but, I did love being there and smiling up at my mom.

Indulgences 

The Singapore Sling was tasty but, SO EXPENSIVE! We have had accommodations that were cheaper than that drink. Let me put it this way, two Singpore Slings, one mocktail the kids shared and to appetizers cost the same as four nights in our place in Da Nang, Vietnam. I am glad we did it even though we are committed to noodles made at home for several nights to make up our budget!

IMG_7721The food areas in Chinatown and the Golden Mile were well worth a visit. IMG_7828Sumptuous food for really fraction of that cocktail! Such a wide array of foods; Indian, Malay, Chinese, Thai, even Italian, English and American among others.

The journey from Malaysia – leaving Johor to Singapore was a bit of a struggle. Our boys are struggling with their backpacks and this border crossing you have to walk a lot. You have to walk through several areas to leave Malaysia, then ride a bus across the bridge to then go through another series of rooms and passport checkins to then end up without an access to an ATM, a phone with a SIM card that didn’t work anymore and no free WiFi which is frequently available at other ports of entry. We were able to get a taxicab which we have rarely taken as the cost is less predictable.

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Look at the ships in the international waters. Looks like a real life version of battleship.

We have taken a fair amount of Ubers and Grab Cars during our travels. Grab cars (or motor scooters) is like an Uber and you can pay in cash. You can also order food to be delivered or even a masseur to be sent to you. We haven’t tried that option yet although it is tempting!

The people were very, very friendly and of course, with a 1% crime rate we felt pretty safe. In fact, I went to buy a SIM card and the salesman loaded it in my phone and then informed me that they take cash only. I grimaced and slightly panicked.  IMG_7776I didn’t have any cash on me. He directed towards an ATM several blocks away.

Trusting me to come back and pay him. On my way back I got a little lost in a sudden downpour and finally found the shop again. He seemed nonplussed that it took me awhile. No big deal, he shrugged.

I was told there are cameras everywhere so, you may not see police but, they are watching. If you do something you will get seen and visited within 24 hours. This includes chewing gum. Yep, not legal. And don’t even think about selling it!

Singpore Flyer – View of the World

The Singapore Flyer was a treat. My husband kept calling the Portland Flyer – a nod to our hometown hockey team. It was sweet. The ride is a half hour-long and is like a giant ferris wheel.

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Our Space Capsule in the Signapore Flyer

It was spendy but, worth the view especially since we got to have the entire capsule to ourselves. It is reportedly, the largest ferris wheel in the world.

The view was incredible especially when you’re told that on a clear day you can see into three countries and 45 kilometers. It was amazing to see all the ships in the harbor, just outside the Singapore border. We were told that the waters are calmer there and that ships often hang out in the international waters waiting to port.

I think all of Singapore feels expensive, especially the accommodations. I cashed in some Chase miles to get a room that was somewhat more reasonable.

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How most takeaway is served. Add a straw and drink your chai.

It is amazing as just across the border the same place would be about 80% cheaper.

We were told that road to the airport has potted greenery in the median in order to create an emergency runway if needed. Singapore is a tiny, island country with a lot of personality, grace and grit.

We purposely spent just a couple of days there so, we could gather ourselves for our trip to Vietnam. All in all a good, brief visit.

Thanks for following! As always, please let me know that you think of the blog. I love hearing from you.

More from Vietnam soon.

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Smoothie? Made with real sugar cane? Why, yes you can!

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Darn, the fresh frog porridge place is closed!

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Chinatown

 

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Lego-lisiousness in Legoland!

Sol 86

As I sit up on my 9th story perch in Ho Chi Mihn City

HCMC Writing Spot

 

I am reflecting on our time in Malaysia. There is so much to write about here in Vietnam and I will get to that but, first want to revisit our adventures at Legoland in Southern Malaysia and Singapore.

Going to a theme park was not part of our original plan but, the opportunity came up, our kids LOVE Legos and the boys were struggling with a bit of homesickness.

The Lobby of Legoland Hotel

Now, do we run off to a theme park every time we are sad…no but, it sure doesn’t hurt to go that extra kilometer (see what I did there with the metric system reference?) to soothe ourselves a bit.

LEGOLAND HOTEL

Legoland Malaysia was pretty sweet. I haven’t been to Disneyland since I was a teenager but, I imagine it is like the ‘happiest place on earth’. We decided to stay at the Legoland Hotel which has themed rooms with scavenger hunts, Lego characters walking around, life-size Lego mini figures, characters walking around and LEGOS everywhere to play with. Big blocks and little blocks.

There are daily building contests and workshops as well as a character parade in the lobby. It was so sweet to see joy on so many faces. Not just ours but, the plenitude of families from all over. There were families there from India, China, and all over SE Asia. We were definitely the minority as we would nod hello to another ‘Western” family from time to time.

Breakfast and dinner buffets were a cultural lesson in itself. So many options of food from standard Western choices to a plethora of Eastern ones too. Did you want Dim Sum with your pancakes? Or French Pastries with Chinese Congee porridge with dried fish on top? Or a traditionally poured spiced chai, watermelon juice, white coffee or full cream milk?

Out in the park, did you want to swim in your hijib or swimsuit or use the body dryer (like a giant hair dryer for your whole body) after getting wet on a ride? Did you want to pray when the call to prayer happened or have a dragon fruit smoothie?

Prayer Spot in Park

All of this while being surrounded by Lego figures?

Our room was the Adventure theme which the boys picked out. It seemed very appropriate for our current journey. Maps and decor from an Egyptian papyrus abound.

Huge ‘Body Dryers’ and all the teens getting dry.

Because we are family half filled with introverts we spent plenty of time in the room. While it was our first place without a kitchen during our travels we did order room service which, amazingly didn’t cost more than the restaurant and the delivery folks refused tips only wanting you to put in a good word at the ‘opinion kiosks’ around the place.

A scooter accident portrayed at Mini-land

THE PARKS

The rides were fine. Oakley tried his first roller coaster and was thrilled. The most impressive areas to me were the Minilands where replicas of iconic places around Asia are constructed to impressive, minute detail. Even the scooter accidents with media and police presence on the street. I could have spent hours here. It was super hot so, we melted as we perused even with the welcome mister machines nearby.

The Star Wars exhibit was stunning with a room dedicated to each episode including the TV Clone Wars. We are Star Wars family so, we loved this geeked out to our hearts content.

They have a water park as well and it was also fine. A lazy river bobbing with big legos you can attach to your floating device. A ‘Build a Raft” float as it were.

In any case, it was lovely to have a big family time in what felt like a big playground. I heard ‘Everything is Awesome’ more times than I care to count but, it was worth it. We did let the boys get a few, small Lego sets to take with us on the road as nothing beats the blues like a couple of hours of Lego play.

A BALANCE OF TRAVEL AND FAMILY

Our travel journey is of where we are going but, it is also richly in the details of our relationships with our kids and between my husband and I. We are a collection of varying personalities and we all need different things to fill our batteries. We discover that more and more as we move along.

Family outings are my favorite and seeing the world whiz by in my window really fills my cup but, I know Oakley and Kelvin need more down time. Canyon too at times. I do too in my own way. Writing is actually very, very helpful for me to sort my head.

I get worried about the things we are doing or not doing and if we are keeping the kids on track in school. Do we communicate enough with family and friends. How do we sort out the time differences and make connections.

Accepting that we can be doing a once in a lifetime thing and still feel rather lonely and miss down time tucked in our oversized duvet back in Oregon.

It is all a balance. And we are working on it day by day. Okay, okay….enough about our inner-psyche.

Next, we headed to Singapore for a couple of days before heading to Vietnam. More on that in our next blog.

As always, thanks for reading and following!

I’m still in love with my Chef Husband but, it was nice to met Lego Chef!

The Deathstar!

The bathrooms at Legoland

Mini-Legoland

Ha! Love the sense of humor!

Fresh Seafood at Legoland?

 

round the world travel

Malaysia on My Mind

Sol 74 

We are on week two in Malaysia and just left Kuala Lumpur for the south. We came  to be near a big city to find some Halloween experiences for our sometimes homesick boys, buy some supplies and to make some plans. 

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Halloween party at Jump Street

IMG_7256It has been a delightful place to see albeit a bit further removed from our more hands on experience in Bali. A bit of an adjustment after Bali as we are on the 16th floor of a shiny apartment and not even a third of the scooters we have been used to seeing whizzing past.

We have been introduced to a large, multicultural city which is predominately Muslim and full of dining, entertainment choices and other big city options. We have spent some time planning our next weeks as well as taking care of some tasks. Kuala Lumpur is known for ‘medical tourism’ and I decided to try it out.

I have hypothyroidism for 10 years and have been managing this by getting blood tests every couple months and taking an appropriate dose of daily medication to balance it. When I left Portland, I had a three month supply of my medication and our last prescription plan wouldn’t let me have anymore. Which is not usual, but annoying. So, I knew I would need to get a new supply from the road. 

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Check out the hours. He is almost always here.


So, I went to a doctor here in Kuala Lumpur. The host of our Airbnb helped me find one and my experience was pretty interesting, at least from the point of view of an American used to our complicated medical/insurance institutions.

The Doctor, Dr. Anthony Samy, was everything I needed including kind and no-nonsense.

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Dr. Anthony

I had to show up and wait (no appointments allowed) but, only waited about 30 minutes. He chatted with me, asked what I needed and took a blood sample. His assistants spent a lot time calculating prices of medications and we got it all sorted out.

Two days later I came back for the results, another consult and then was given four months of medications. My only concern was that the sense of privacy is different there.

They took me in a room to be weighed and there was the doctor at his desk talking to another patient.

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Paying for my medications.

“Oh, excuse me!” I said, but, they were indifferent, shrugged their shoulders and went back to their conversation.

The medical office also takes you on without a lot of information. My script has my first name only on it. It reminded me of Dr. Fleishman in Northern Exposure when Marilyn would just number the people in the waiting room.

While I was a bit worried about the process, it turned out fine. In the entire process with two doctors visits, blood sample, lab work/results and four months medication the total cost was $61. Wow…

In Kuala Lumpur we also visited the tallest twin buildings in the world. The Petronas Twin Towers  and  KL Bird Park an amazing bird park with an outdoor aviary several acres big. We also visited the National Mosque of Malaysia and they proudly told us that Obama had visited there just last year.IMG_7392

fullsizeoutput_9dc8In our world-schooling lesson we had a long lesson on mosques and Islam. It is always fascinating for Kelvin and I to see things and think they are a big deal and then have the boys just accept all as ‘normal’. People doing their everyday tasks, working as a nurse, checkout person at the grocery store, kids jumping on trampolines or on school trip at the park – all in their hijibs. So many colorful varieties.

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The other Twin Tower and I

Normalizing plurality. Always a good world-school lesson.

We are in Malaysia for one more week then are heading to Vietnam with a two day visit in Singapore. We made to Johur yesterday via bus from Kuala Lumpur. From our current place we can see across the river into Singapore and the kids love being able to say. “Hey, I can see into another country over there!” and then they collapse in a pile of giggles.

As usual, thanks for following.

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National Mosque

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School on the Bus to Johur.

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Our Bali Excursion is Winding Down, Our Life Long Love Affair is Just Beginning

Sol 61: Coming up on three weeks in Bali. We’ve had some highs and some lows. The awe at the constant beauty around us has not waned. It seems every time I look up I see something unique, amazing, delightful or a bit different and quirky.

The bargaining never stops.

New Kite Flying Friends

My husband is tallying a list of ‘things I have seen being carried on a scooter’ and it just about contains everything possible. I’ve seen tiny, tiny babies nestled between ma and pa, panes of glass being held aloft, piles of branches, sticks and grass, complete mini-stores where one might make a meal or sell you a plethora of snacks. All of this wheeling by you.

Dewi makes the best meals!

The places we have stayed have been varied from an estate/villa such as the place we are at now to a house in the middle of a more tattered neighborhood where our point woman was amazing. She arranged for our boys to fly kites with her sons and made the best Nasi Goreng.

Emade, our amazing driver from Ubud. Email him for driving at nyoman.wati72@gmail.com

We ended up leaving early though as we found a dead bird under our bed and a bird nest above our son’s bed in the thatched roof that was less than sanitary. Bird poo on your sheets and pillows? We had to draw the line somewhere. The host (whom we never met) told us by email ‘that is nature’ and I am inclined to think it is but, it doesn’t have to be on my son’s head.

Dinner on Jimbaran Beach.

We are getting more adaptive in the heat. I wouldn’t say more used to it. You can see why people have plunge pools to dip into and wash off the heat of the day.

Monkey back rubs at the Monkey Forest Sanctuary.

We can see Mt. Agung from our current house and she is still resting. We are grateful for this but, also are acutely aware that there are several thousand people still living away from their homes out of the evacuation zone in refugee camps. This is heart breaking and a struggle.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces

Our boys have adjusted to mom and dad being the guides/teachers for the interim.

They are adjusting and we are soaking up our last week here as Friday, we head to Malaysia

There are very typical Bali experiences I am committing to memory. I share 10 of them with you here.

  • the sweeping up of all the flowers that fell overnight with a broom made of palm leaves.
  • the sweet smell of incense and tiny offerings that show up before most doors or walkways.
  • the low, guttural mooing of the cows with giant bells around their necks.
  • the assortment of flying bugs some bedazzling with colorful, sparkling wings and others just larger than I have ever seen before.
  • houses with open walls that get transformed in the evening to a closed in space with the pull of a curtain.
  • the frogs that take up residence in the bathrooms or guarding the end of  our bed.
  • the offer of a 100 cab, scooter rides if you are merely standing on the side of the road.
  • the vibrant color of fruit smoothies that rival any modern painting
  • the intricate carvings in wood and stone that are done with a hammer by the roadside
  • the absolute kindness of most people who wish to see you well.

Canyon warning the rabbits they may become pets or someone’s dinner.

Nothing like seeing a structure that is over 600 years old when your own country’s european settlement history started after this temple was built.

My new favorite Pringles flavor?

Doorway to our current bedroom.

Boys paying respects by wearing a sarong and really looking good while doing it!

Night food market.

Grilling the meat and using the fan to bring in the customers as well as spread the smoke.

Kelvin in his element with the cutest photo bomber in the back!

Tenenungan Waterfalls

Reading Kindles while waiting for a ride.

 

Family photo

A huge shout out to our friends Robyn and Mark who hosted us a couple times in Australia. We want them to know we so appreciate them!! Happy Wedding next month!

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3 Cats, 3 Dogs, 3 Chickens, 1 boy who turned 10 and a Volcano Watch.

Sol 42: We are in our last week in OZ! I didn’t know was the nick name for this wonderful country as every time I hear that I think of a prison drama on HBO but, never you mind.

Last week, we went a different direction by splurging on passes to the amusement park of Dream World and White Water World .  This is out of the ordinary for us but, one turning 10 is a pretty big deal too.

We have never been to Disneyland but, this may count as a good alternative. Kelvin and I have not been to any Disney park since the 1980s so, we don’t have a lot to compare it to.

It was fun, some crazy rides and loads of old school favorites. Also, not so crowded so all introverts in the family adjusted well. We packed our lunches and easily headed to the car to eat or carried what we needed with us.
For an eight year old and newly minted ten-year old it was the ‘bees knees’. My words, not theirs. Theirs included ‘This is sick!’ and ‘What the ‘bleep’ (yes, they say actual word bleep).

These sound bites don’t sound so good in print. It felt good to be in a place with a bunch of other kids too.

There are few amusement parks where you can see Kangaroos, Dingoes, Bilbys, and lizards that are all over the place. They might even visit your picnic lunch (the lizards, not the Dingoes!).

Oakley’s favorite place was the Lego Store as you walked in. This sounds like the ‘liquor store’ when spoken by a native Aussie so, my confusion was apparent. And disappointed to having no wine with the Legos. But, alas.

Canyon starting his Chauffeur career.

Canyon, our ever-present water hound, was pleased with all the water slides and joyous drops from up high. He even learned to drive a little.

Kelvin took a lot of photos (you should check out his blog at Degrees of Kelvin to see some of his perspective on this trip.

He always shows us sides of the trip we hadn’t seen and close-ups with all the birds and animals. All of us had a great time, we had a couple of day pass that we felt was very affordable.

Which was good as Oakley had a fever the first day and he and I hung out at the house with the dogs for the day while Kelvin and Canyon adventured.

Canyon bringing Mossimo back as Oakley looks down from the bedroom.

The dog and chicken sit is going well. There are three dogs with varying personalities and one is blind so, we carry him down the stairs to wee/poo. The house is called a Queenslander so, it basically built on stilts.

It is a single level for living but, the bottom is like an open spaced garage/washroom/storage room. Fresh eggs every morning is a plus as well.

We also have been getting in our last swims in the Australian seas as well as trips to the pharmacies, book stores and other supply places we might not so easily access on our next leg.

We have been finding our way with the world-schooling. It is a rhythm that we are all trying to balance. Kelvin and I take turns ‘teaching’ or ‘guiding’ as in the Montessori way.

We did Skype with the classroom and that was helpful for the boys to see some of their friends and realize that they are far behind or missing big events.

Yes, there are doing cool things in school but, it’s not like the boys are left out. As they check in with their reporting of their adventures. This helps with the home/friend-sickness that comes up from time to time.

Did I mention that volcano? The last couple weeks there is has been a lot in the news about Mt.Agung’s volcano activity.

List to report to the class.

We have talked with ex-pats that are there and contacted several places and we are getting the go ahead to proceed.

Even the Balinese Tourism Chief asked folks to not change their plans and to still come to Bali. We are not planning on being in place near the Mt.Agung so we are going.

We don’t currently have flight plans to leave which is for the best as we can pick and choose when and where we go next.

We have accommodations for nearly three weeks and will keep a keen eye on what is happening.

The last couple days are connections with long time friends. Staying in their wonderfully comfy, clean house warm with lively conversation, tasty meals and, as Oakley ferreted out, more Legos.

We did tip our hat to OZ at Sky Point , one of the tallest buildings in the Southern Hemisphere. It was a great way to get some perspective when getting ready to leave an area.

The views were unsurprising and there were many, many pods of Humpback Whales breaching, slapping and altogether frolicking out in the ocean. Oz is truly friendly, beautiful and ginormous. We will have to come back.

I think this just might be Kelvin and I in Lego form.

Kody helping Kelvin even though he is blind and deaf he knows good food when he smells it. So do the Geckos that climbed in the window to peek at the activity.

On the job, walking the dogs.

Canyon is trying three new things in each country and it was Sushi for his birthday. A new love for him (and a delight for me!).

Dinner with Deb, our first Trusted Housesitter host and a friend for life now. She has also offered Canyon an opportunity to come back when older to sit again.